1938 Turk Mauser

[8mmshooter]

Nice job on the Turk Jr. A little of the old american ingenuity strikes again. Can you possibly pull those bullets and drop the powder charge a mite and use the remington sp points in the turk cases for hunting? Hate to see your $50 go down the tubes. 8mmshooter

[Junior1942]

8mmshooter, I whacked off the FMJ noses with a Mini Cut Off tool down to the lead core, making a 189 gr FP bullet. I load them in R-P cases with CCI non-corrosive primers and 37 grs of the Turk powder for 2125 fps. Several 3-shot, 100 yard groups averaged 2.9". Maybe tomorrow this time I can tell you how they work on deer!

[Scotty]

I was always told its a bad idea to cut the nose off a fmj , they say its possible to shoot the core out and leave the jacket behind ... that could be bad .
Just my $.02



Scotty,

[Junior1942]

That is true, Scotty. It's why these cut off FMJ bullets are loaded down to ~2100 fps from ~2400 fps. I'd guess they're a low 30 to 32,000 PSI.

[bruce drake]

Junior,

depending on your setup, it might be easier to use some LocTite versus Tig Welding it. It sounds like it rotates within the scope base from the recoil of the rifle. Loctite has a reputation for holding that may be worth the price of a tube.

PM me with your address and I'll send you some 170gr Lee to try out in the rifle if no one has sent you any.

Bruce

[TCLouis]

Junior1942

As I remember it Brownells (who else) sells a all thread rod to use for repainiring split stocks. The grip provided bu the threads being the only advantage over your method.

Seems like a small machine screw from brass or SS would do the same thing by drilling a slightly undersized hole and just cut the screw off flush after screwing it into an epoxy filled hole.

[Scrounger]

Junior1942

As I remember it Brownells (who else) sells a all thread rod to use for repainiring split stocks. The grip provided bu the threads being the only advantage over your method.

Seems like a small machine screw from brass or SS would do the same thing by drilling a slightly undersized hole and just cut the screw off flush after screwing it into an epoxy filled hole.

Home Depot and other hardware stores sell the threaded (headless) rods cheaper and easier. I know they have 1/4-20, they may have smaller or larger, too, but that's a good size to work with.

[Junior1942]

Junior,

depending on your setup, it might be easier to use some LocTite versus Tig Welding it. It sounds like it rotates within the scope base from the recoil of the rifle. Loctite has a reputation for holding that may be worth the price of a tube.

PM me with your address and I'll send you some 170gr Lee to try out in the rifle if no one has sent you any.

Bruce

You know what? I have a tube of blue Loctite and it never crossed my mind to use it on the mount screws! I used it on the scope rings but not on the mounts. . . .

I have a brand spanking new Lee 170 gr mold, Bruce. But thanks for the offer!!

Re: all thread bolt for split stocks: An all thread rod in 1/8" or 1/16" might come in handy some day. On my Turk stock, I used a cut-off nail and two pieces of a brass rod, all were liberally scored and scratched with a Dremel wheel or a file edge.

I thought you guys might want to see a photo of me and the Turk on its new battlefield--the deer woods. I'm packing it via a saddle ring sling hooked through the stock's rear swivel ring. The camera is tied to a tree limb and is on the timer. We're about 1/2 mile from my car and in the deep woods. Notice the cypress knees in the right background. My hands are in my jacket pockets and wrapped around HeatMax hand warmers. It was cold!!!

[krag35]

Looks good Junior;

Haven't gotten to shoot mine yet, pure lazyness on my part. What's "cold" down your way? The kids and I took the boat out fishing yesterday, it was 7 degrees when we got on the water.

Thanks for the posts on converting your Turk, have given me some good ideas for my next one.

krag35

[StarMetal]

Junior

Any thread locker is supposed to be used on the mount screw and not the rings. I would imagine if you have a severe recoil rings coming lose problem then it might be ok.

Joe

[Junior1942]

Seems like a small machine screw from brass or SS would do the same thing by drilling a slightly undersized hole and just cut the screw off flush after screwing it into an epoxy filled hole.

You want the hole slightly oversized, not undersized. Making the hole smaller than the scew/rod/nail makes a stress point to cause more stock splitting. The epoxy will fill the excess in the hole.

>What's "cold" down your way? The kids and I took the boat out fishing yesterday, it was 7 degrees when we got on the water.

At 7 degrees here in north Louisiana, we'd all freeze to death. This morning it was 30 and I like to froze. Yesterday morning it was 24 and I wasn't nearly so cold. The coldest I remember it getting here was -1 about 15 years ago.

[Junior1942]

Junior

Any thread locker is supposed to be used on the mount screw and not the rings. I would imagine if you have a severe recoil rings coming lose problem then it might be ok.

Joe, I've always put a daub of blue Loctite on a fingertip and ran it around the inside of the rings before tightening them. It leaves just a tiny coating of Loctite, and I've never had a scope slide in its rings.

[StarMetal]

Junior

I was talking about on the ring screws. Ross Seyfred who was into those big bore handgun wildcats said that scopes on them slip and he used 3M Liquid Electrical Tape on the insides of the rings, no more slip ever and also hard to get the scope out.

Joe

[Junior1942]

Good idea, Joe. I'm changing the rings today, so I'll put some of the blue goo on the screws and inside the rings.

[StarMetal]

Junior,

I'm not being clear I guess. When mounting a scope you normally put locktite on the base screws because the base is something that you don't remove often. On the ring you can put something inside the rings such as we discussed to keep the scope from moving, but normally gunsmiths DO NOT put any locktite on the rings screws either the screws that clamp the scope or the screws that clamp the rings to the base because a scope IS something that gets removed alot more then a base. They say this because the locking material will make the rings harder to remove. Now that's not saying that you can put it on there if you wish, but it's not really needed. Maybe in severe recoiling large handgun calibers there might be. Hope that clears it up.

Joe

[Junior1942]

Loud and clear.

[StarMetal]

Junior,

Shooting cast really doesn't impose much recoil unless you're loading them really hot and most of us don't do that. If you're going to keep shooting that machinegun 8mm ammo you have (hahahahaha) maybe you could use the locktite on everything.

My rings and scope should be here today for the Mauser project and also the rings for the Yugo SKS project...will be posting about that.

Joe

[Dutch4122]

I bet you were missing the beard that morning, eh?

[waksupi]

I use finely powdered pine resin on the inside of scope rings. Cheap, and works good.

[Junior1942]

I gave up trying to get good cast bullet groups with my Turk until after hunting season when I have more time to experiment. Looks like I'm gonna have to lower the velocity on the #323471 to less than 1600 fps to get a group of 2" or less. At 1700 fps or so, it'll put 3 in 4" and the next 3 in 18".

Got the Turk to shooting 1 1/2" to 2" 3 shot groups with the 185 Rem and 44 grs of Varget. Velocity is ~2225 fps est. That'll be my deer load for the rest of the season. Wish me luck in the morning.