Jim P, interesting screw source, they even have Chicago Screws (which I use for a number of things), interesting. Good sources for parts are NICE!
Jim P, interesting screw source, they even have Chicago Screws (which I use for a number of things), interesting. Good sources for parts are NICE!
FWIW; just be aware cup point steel setscrews will dig into the die threads and damage them...
My Anchor is holding fast!
The screws are brass and they are self lubricating so they cannot damage the threads of the lock ring.
However they can peen a divot on the die threads. To prevent damage don't tighten the set screw very tight.
Even better is to install a .125 nylon ball under the screw. The nylon is elastic and will release its grip if you back off the screw. Lead shot does not easily release because it is not elastic.
I agree with buying a wrench for each die set.
EDG
Hmm, I will have to figure out where to find .125 nylon balls, I can start with #7-1/2 lead shot for now as I can get the rings to release, pretty much guaranteed. Have to find some shot tho :P
A trick that I learned long ago was to loosen the set screw and tap it with a plastic mallet. That makes the lead shot back off of the threads. And no, I'm not smart enough to have discovered that trick. I think I may have read about it in an old gun magazine?
I’ve yet to figure out why it’s so important to have a locking lock ring. It takes less than a minute to adjust a die and snug the lock ring down.
When dealing with islam one should always ask themselves: "What would Leonidas do?"
I dont understand the need to use the set screw at all.. I have never used them on any die I have, and have been loading for a long time. A .25 cent O-ring under the lock ring will set the die and will not allow the adjustment to change. Rarely do I ever full length size and "cam over" the press. but if I do, tightening the nock ring down a tight finger tight while the press is "Cammed over" locks everything securely in place. I measure headspace,and find the o-ring makes it extremely easy to get very fine precise adjustments to settings,,just bumping the shoulder back a thousandth or two..
Apparently many of you do not exercise much precision when setting your dies. So you might be hand gun shooters with only straight walled cases. I have FL dies that took 30 min to an hour to set exactly match my rifle chambers. I can set them to the nearest .001 and every case will be perfectly sized. Ammo is more accurate and cases last longer.
EDG
I'm with the guys who don't over-tighten them to begin with but if you're in the habit of setting and re-setting and you don't have shot or pellets you can substitute other items. Any small chunk of plastic would work as a thread saver. Or a bit of copper wire, hammered more or less flat.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
I don't care! I actually back off the original position, then slowly lower the die as I measure head space with a gauge.. each time I size.. I record the measurement,, and size till I get exact measurement each time.
All my dies wear Forster cross locking rings for use in the Co-ax.
I have FL bottleneck rifle dies that have been set in the exact same position since at least 1963ish; Set to neck size or seat for one rifle that didn't get stolen (Family members SIGH.) I'd just as soon not have to mess with it every time I load a few custom rounds for that, and especially rather not mangle my brass etc. due to 1 screw being loose. If you change presses you do have to adjust things, but otherwise lock rings should be locked
I can record the measurement from the back of the case to a point on the shoulder of a fired case from my rifle... This is a fire formed duplicate of my chamber,, or pretty close to one..... I install my die, and turn it down, till that shoulder measurement, (Headspace) decreases by 1 0r 2 thousandths. The O-ring is up against the press, centering, and squaring the die, the lock ring has tension against that, and allows me to very precisely lower the die till I achieve the correct measurement.. that measurement will not change. the friction of the O-ring, keeps the die centered ,square, and at the proper depth..
My press is spared the wear and tear of" camming over " annnd I don't over work my brass.. they last a Long Long time..
Pretty basic stuff really.
Mr Sheesh.. have you not dis -assembled your dies and completely cleaned them since 63 ish?
I actually clean my dies each time I resize. Remove stem ,,spray out die with gunscrubber,, clean, lightly polish expander ball with semichrome ,then lightly grease it.. I am not worried about the previous setting. I have my rifles headspace measurement recorded..
I don't understand wegdging a steel screw against the die threads ... It jus not necessary..
Last edited by HATCH; 12-24-2017 at 10:54 PM. Reason: merge threads done within mins of each other
The first place I have seen the nylon balls used was the chromed Lyman dies of the 1960s. I have bought 8-32 nylon screws and cut off short pieces with side cutters to use when nylon balls were not available.
I know how to loosen lead shot by whacking the die but nylon is a much better material.
EDG
Cleaned, yes; How does cleaning them require that I remove the lock rings, though? (And you can fix the other parts together so you don't lose settings, as well.) I just don't see having to chase the same problem over and over; That's why I set the low idle up on my car instead of having to push on the gas pedal to keep the car running, that's why I have a fridge instead of an ice box, and that's why I learned to reload instead of having to buy ammo by the box. Some call it "laziness' but an awful lot of people call it "being smart"; Make LESS work for yourself instead of far more. Do things smart instead of the hardest way possible, and so on.) If you REALLY want to do things the hard way, sell your rifles and just manually insert the bullets into the game animals :P
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |