I've been very happy with a Browning Pro-steel for many years now .
Nice photo of the dog by the way !
Jack
Buy it cheap and stack it deep , you may need it !
Black Rifles Matter
If you have a serious collection of antique stuff (or you're into NFA items), then you might want to go visit your local locksmith shops and leave them your number. Tell them you're looking for a used B-rate or similar commercial safe, and you're willing to pay for them to move and service it. You might even get a "You haul it away" offer. In any case, you can get very good protection for a lot less than a new TL safe, especially if you don't mind it having an outdated insurance rating.
Last edited by arclight; 06-11-2017 at 02:32 AM.
I buy "used" good quality safes. Much cheaper than new. I install a CO2 system inside of my safes. IF there was a fire in the home, as soon as the internal temperature of the safe reaches 190F, the system discharges. The temperature inside of the safe will go down to less than 40F almost immediately. Now the fire rating time interval is "Re-Started". So if it was 45 minutes, it just became something greater than 45 minutes at the time of the CO2 discharge. And there is enough of a discharge from inside the safe to the outside to actually dampen any fire that may be in close proximity.
Micah 6:8
He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?
"I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!
A good many years ago I worked with a guy that had been up twice for B&E, he said the second time cured him. He said that they backed up to a rear basement door with a box truck, used a chainsaw to cut a hole in the door. Then he ran upstairs and walked around the safe with the saw and dropped it in the basement, loaded it and gone. It didn't take much over 5 minutes. Everything was cased out planned and timed. He also stated that he couldn't steal what he couldn't find and he didn't take much time to look.
The last time I saw him he had started a moving company, not sure how that worked out. I guess he just couldn't stop hauling stuff out of peoples houses.
My son was involved with border patrol just pass the big bend area. they had a number of outlying stations which were small contractor drag up offices. There were no roads in so some were brought in by helicopter. Browning safes were used to store a few long guns and ammo and emergency food Cameras were installed as result of break ins. From the time the main door was kicked in. in 3 minutes ans 3o seconds the first rifle was being removed from the safe. A fire Ax was used to cut an L shaped through the side of safe. They change safes to one fabbed in 3/8"Plate with weld on locks, made at local Machine shop. It was actually cheaper than the Browning safes that were being broken into.
1.)The mounting panel is not shaky or thin.so that it can hold the screw in jerks and vibration while you are driving or other reason.Also, see that there are no parts on the other side of the panel which could be harmed while drilling.
2.)Make the exact measurement of the hole position of the safe ie distance length and breadth wise.bring exact size screw.Or show the case to shopkeeper while asking for screws.Test different size screw and use which fits the best.
3.) Mark hole position onto a panel with a marker.
4.)Create holes on the panel with a driller.Now place the case on the panel and fasten the screws.
5.) You can store your gun safely in a vault.
Check craigslist:
https://lascruces.craigslist.org/bfs...384207725.html
A steal at $19k... some additional shipping...Deibold Rotary Wedge-Lock vault door Class III is a current model offered by Manufacturer. It is the top of the line having many advance features. This massive door is built with specialized materials to withstand impact tools and impede sawing or drilling and has a unique rotary wedge that spans the full height of the door. See Diebold website for full description under rotary wedge-lock vault door. This door is the 36" wide entry.
DESCRIPTION:
This estimated 17 year old class 3 constructed bank vault system was carefully de-constructed and now is available for a new purpose. The electronic system is not all there. Buyer would have to secure Diebold services to re-establish class 3 security certification at their expense if required...
LOCAL PICK-UP:
Building and door have been dismantled. Building has 30 section about 4,000 pounds each average weight. Door and sash weight about 8,000 pounds.... Seller has local equipment available to load onto flatbed trailer. Weight is estimated 100,000 to 120,000 pounds.
That piece of 2 3/8 "WELL TUBING" is still standing there. Got it standing on a SOLID 8 inch concrete block on concrete floor. Hand dug basement made under house in the early 50 ts. Another laminated beam holding up the floor under safe. Word has got around. "GRAB AND RUNS standing in every corner of the house. Just something for the kids to learn a trade..!
I made my own safe from welded plate,took a crane to get it in.My brother got a big Chubb bank safe the size of a 2 door fridge for the cost of removal,about $2000 in those days.Weighs 9 ton,but its so airtight that causes problems with mould. A very resistant safe would be made from thick 1100 alloy and steel plate.The ally grabs abrasive wheels and breaks them.Another good material is solid wood between steel plates,cutting attempts make lots of smoke that blinds and chokes the thieves.
I miss my garage in NJ, I was forced by economic pressure to sell and move in '95 and had to leave my safe behind, it was a safe I bought used from a jewelry store, it was a big fireproof job with double doors, it was big enough to place two of the Big Browning safes in it side-by-side with a stack of 50cal ammo cans placed crosswise between them Crosswise than sit in a folding chair in front of them and read a newspaper with the doors closed because it was five feet deep. I had a hell of a time moving it in and no hope of moving it out so it got left behind to become the new owners problem.
I originally got a deal on it because I was willing to move it from where it was, plus I had a friend with a dump truck. MY girlfriend has "suggested" we need a Safe (for my guns and Hers) and my only answer was that "I thought that was a wonderful idea!".
Not looking for anything super big or super massive, but something better than the Stack On Garbage which are Mostly designed to keep your kids friends from playing with your firearms or "casual thieves" from grabbing them instead of your TV or Laptop...
The local thieves have solved the safe problem,they make the owner open it.........The cops say the thieves might be minorities,so they have be careful not to profile them,which makes id difficult.
A weapon safe is a protected and cautious amassing holder for no less than one firearms, and, or ammunition for those guns. Gun safes are fundamentally used to turn away access to unapproved or unfit individuals, for robbery protection, and, in more fit safes, to shield the substance from hurt in the midst of a surge, shoot, or calamitous occasion.
Safes:
Buy one double the size you 'think' will do just fine. Don't ask how I know.
Murphy
If I should depart this life while defending those who cannot defend themselves, then I have died the most honorable of deaths. Marc R. Murphy '2006'.
Safes keep out the idiots. Pros get in them same as banks. Secure it so it does not move and have a security system is best you can do.
You can go for it, it’s a good one, or you can visit different sites that investigate about the functionalities of a safe gun. Those reviews might help you too. Wish you good luck.
Realistically speaking, gun safes won't prevent theft, only slow thieves down. Many gun safes on the market can be easily broken into by watching a youtube channel , especially these biometric and electronic safes. I have both a small handgun safe for easy access and also a hidden gun cabinet.
They are good for preventing unauthorized family members from getting their hands on the guns like children or relatives.
Here's how I see it. If a theft were to happen, the hidden gun cabinet most likely won't be noticed.
More info on gun safes if anyone needs it.
Get a TL 15 and place it bolted down in concrete in a small room that have thick walls close to the outer dimensions of the safe with deadbolt solid door, so thieves cannot use pry bars, and pulling it out with a tow truck is impossible. 14 gauge is laughable, as a can opener or even a small jigsaw will open that up. if possible build a steel lined rebar solid concrete room and install a TL 30 expanding gasket vault door and line the interior with good quality drywall and an alarm with a couple of German Shepards and insurance. Consider the cost of replacing all your stuff and the sentinmental ones vs the one time cost of of doing it right. With the later you will sleep well at night or when traveling.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |