What are the do’s and don’t s? It came without dies, so what all will I need to get it up and running?
What are the do’s and don’t s? It came without dies, so what all will I need to get it up and running?
You're going to need a sizing die of the proper diameter and a top punch. For nose first sizing, you'll need the flat punch. I'd suggest getting those from Lathesmith here on this forum, as his quality is first rate and the prices are more than reasonable.
If you're going to use a soft lube, you won't need a heater, but if using a hard lube, then a heater will be necessary. To start, you won't need an air piston or bullet feeder, but may want to add those later on. I've never really found the need for the air feed on my machines, but I can see where it could be a good addition. The bullet feeder is an individual choice. On some bullets that are easy to grasp, I can feed them into the sizer at a rate that nullifies the time it takes to fill tubes for the bullet feeder. Other bullets, that are hard to grasp, benefit from being tubed and fed through the bullet feeders. I have machines set up for both.
That's enough to get you started, but you should go to Magma's website and download the manual for the Star Sizer, since it has a lot of information in it and will tell you how to set up your dies to get the lube in the lube grooves, instead of on the nose or base...... Here's their link: http://www.magmaengineering.com/magma-star-lube-sizer/
Hope this helps.
Fred
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
good info and advice reloaderfred
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After getting the download, start keeping records of how far down into the sizer die the base of the specific boolits desired to be sized needs to be in order to align with the hole(s in the case of double lube groove boolits). You will need a measuring caliper for that in case you do not yet have one. A couple of days ago I had a difficult time getting a Lee 2-groove boolit lined up properly. I checked my records and they indicated the boolit base should be .800" down into the sizer die. Fooled with it two evenings before I finally pulled the die out, scraped off the lube, and held the boolit next to the holes in the sizing die and measured to the top of the die. Base of the boolit needed to be .700 down from the top of the sizing die. I had previously only lubed the lowest groove toward the base, then decided I needed to lube both lube grooves. When I did that I opened the next set of holes and moved the boolit upward ... but forgot to record that in my notes. Save yourself a lot of fumbling and fuming by measuring the distance from the base of the boolit [with the open hole(s) lined up with the hole(s) in the sizing die] to the top of the sizer die and record that. Big Boomer
Last edited by Big Boomer; 10-13-2017 at 04:53 PM. Reason: correction
Check Lathesmith for dies and top punches he does excellent work and is alot cheaper than trying to buy an original. He is listed at the top of this page.
Last edited by oger; 10-21-2017 at 09:41 PM.
Don't forget the lube. Go to the bottom of this page and click on the tube of Carnuba Red which gets you to LsStuff. Good assortment at a good price.
You plan to just size or to lube?
If your gonna lube then I suggest getting lock nuts from Lathesmith and punches for each boolit you do.
makes setup a breeze
when you go to Ls Stuff you'll want to buy Carnauba Blue, this does not require any heat, provided your in a warm, room temp, area.
I use to buy the red which works well but dealing with Lymans heater was a chore, going to the Blue in my unheated Star was a blessing and I both a bunch of the Carnauba Blue!
that's the ticket!
I have individual dies made to my specifications, My setups are simple. I size 44 cal and 45 cal using the same top punch, the 44 punch.
To change from 45 to 44 or vice versa I simply change the bottom die and I don't have to make any adjustments on the top punch. I do 44 and 45 off one sizer and 38,357, 9mm off the other. I use the air cylinder instead of having to turn the lube screw and I use a bullet feeder. I use a bunch of different lubes and use a PID for temp control on my home made heater setup.
LabLover:
Room temp varies, your in Michigan I'm in LA when I got my first lot of Carnauba Blue the outside temp was 110 degrees so 85 in my man cave was what I had the air conditioner set for, I did need a jump start with the GF's hair dryer ( won't do that again, LOL!) she was unimpressed.
After that I just rolled and lubed and sized about 1100 45 BD acp rounds pretty quick.
HM
Everyone has their favorite lube. I know I have mine, and the one I use requires a heater. Works for me, but may not work for someone else. Each person will have to find what works best for them. All my Star Sizers are equipped with heaters.....
Hope this helps.
Fred
After a shooting spree, they always want to take the guns away from the people who didn't do it. - William S. Burroughs.
An option not mentioned so far is one that I use ... I found a piece of aluminum at a scrap yard a little less than 1/2" thick that I mounted on a 2"X10" board. Had to smooth the thing up and get it square. It is about 1 foot square and overhangs the 2"X10" a few inches at the back side. I mounted the Star on the aluminum square with the base of the Star flush with the front side of the aluminum and the board. Since I have more than one Star, I can switch them out by removing 3 screws. For heat, I use one of my wife's cast-off electric irons. I place setting on the iron at minimum near the back side of the Star and once it heats up, I move it further away as I need less heat. You will find that when you have too much heat, the lube will begin to seep through on the nose of the boolits. Works for me. Big Boomer
Last edited by Big Boomer; 10-25-2017 at 03:30 PM. Reason: correction
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |