I bought this at Target this morning. $9.47 for the box. And it works just like the picture on the package, surprisingly! I like it!!
Here's the box and before/after pics on my 2007 Tundra.
I bought this at Target this morning. $9.47 for the box. And it works just like the picture on the package, surprisingly! I like it!!
Here's the box and before/after pics on my 2007 Tundra.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
A few days ago, looking at my "yellowed" plastic headlight lenses on my Toyota, which I posted about previously (the polishing compound treatment lasted about 1 or 2 years?). I decided to read up and try the "DW OFF" (Deep Woods OFF insect spray) treatment.
First, After doing some reading, I learned the oils (or acidic oils) need to be neutralized, I used baking soda and water.
this procedure did work real well removing the yellow haze and did a only a little bit to 'melt' any scratches, the scratches were still there but not nearly as noticeable.
The first lens I "rubbed" with a towel treated with DW OFF in a circular motion, the circular motion was a mistake. The end result of rubbing that way was the lens seemed smeared. Then I sprayed the lens with water, then "powdered" the lens with baking soda, then sprayed lightly with water again, and let sit for a few minutes. Then I rinsed real well, and the plastic was NOT soft and tacky like can happen with this chemical reaction. I then coated the lenses with a good carnuba auto wax.
The second lens, I did much the same, Except I used one, straight wiping motion of the DW OFF treated towel, doing one area of the lens at a time, each time using a new towel that was newly treated. After one wipe of a treated towel, you can feel the sticky melted plastic on the towel, and touching the area of the towel, onto the lens again, just makes a mess. This technique gave a much clearer result.
I guess we'll see how this lasts...it sure was lots easier than 30 minutes to an hour of rubbing with some sort of mild abrasive.
PS, be sure to take measures to not get the DW OFF on the car's paint...I'm not sure if it will melt the paint? but if it would, that'd be bad.
Last edited by JonB_in_Glencoe; 10-18-2017 at 11:31 AM.
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“If someone has a gun and is trying to kill you, it would be reasonable to shoot back with your own gun.”
― The Dalai Lama, Seattle Times, May 2001
I agree. it might help a bit IF your lenses haven't already yellowed but once the sun does the damage that causes them to discolor it usually damaged much deeper then these magic potions will cure. Even if they look better on the surface damage is done to the lenses all the way through and light output will diminish. About all your doing is putting a temporary bandaid on them.
As an update I bought new lights all around for my truck, GMC Canyon, over the weekend. Cost a whole $188 for the headlights, turn signals and tail lights. TYC makes headlights for pretty much every car. The plastic they use doesn't yellow as fast as other brands. I'm sold on the brand after putting one on the Buick Regal we own. Light fit and looks just like the OEM.
Like others have said if the lights aren't yellowed too bad then you can polish them out fairly good but if they are really bad then replacement is the only option.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |