Here
http://hobbychemicalsupply.com/?reqp=1&reqr=
Looks like a dead page now? Dunno now, sorry about that.
Here
http://hobbychemicalsupply.com/?reqp=1&reqr=
Looks like a dead page now? Dunno now, sorry about that.
Harbor freight Dutch oven works for me. Cheap and tough. Just had to drill a hole in the lid.
I'm sure many of you already know this, but for those who don't:
(d) Except for the purposes of subsections (d), (e), (f), (g), (h), (i), and (j) of section 844 of this title, "explosives" means any chemical compound mixture, or device, the primary or common purpose of which is to function by explosion- the term includes, but is not limited to, dynamite and other high explosives, black powder, pellet powder, initiating explosives, detonators, safety fuses, squibs, detonating cord, igniter cord, and igniters.
(h) "Manufacturer" means any person engaged in the business of manufacturing explosive materials for purposes of sale of distribution or for his own use.
(n) "Distribute" means sell, issue, give, transfer, or otherwise dispose of.
https://www.atf.gov/file/58741/download
"We take a thousand moments for granted thinking there will be a thousand more to come. Each day, each breath, each beat of your heart is a gift. Live with love & joy, tomorrow is not promised to anyone......"
unknown
Ahah! That sounds much better! Wont' fit in my furnace though. Might have to do some firebrick stacking.Harbor freight Dutch oven works for me. Cheap and tough. Just had to drill a hole in the lid.
Steve
A outdoor smoker fire box works also or a campfire.
Fly
I have pulverized my KNO3 into dust using a blender, and my charcoal as well. The sulfur is already flour-like. Went to Harbor Freight to get a 6-ton press and they were out of them.
Steve
I contemplated using my vice (I have a big one) but I want to do the pressing outdoors. I think I'm going to get the 12-ton HF press as it is on a full-height frame, and then mount it on a dolly so I can wheel it in and out of the garage.
Steve
here's an odd thought I had, you know how some people talk about using pee as a wetting agent because urea helps the mixture, well would the diesel exhaust fluid (DEF) work as well, its urea according to the label and maybe a little more pure than piss.
NO, NO, pee does not help in any way, that is a ole wise tail. Some one came up with that because KNO-3 can
be made from pee. Believe me. If you wanted more than 75% KNO-3 in the mix just add more. But over the
many years of powder making 75% KNO-3 15% Charcoal 10% Sulfur has been found to work best. Besides
Charcoal is what makes the power. KNO-3 is just the oxidizer.
To much bad info on the Net. Please don,t muddy the water here.
Fly
at least I admitted it was an odd thought
You boys are doing real fine with this thread. I've been following it. Oh making KNO-3 from pee you would have to have a couple tractor trailers loads of Budwizer or Millers to have enough pee to make enough KNO-3 to be worth while! Then the process is long too.
I thought it was the Bishop's urine that was needed, cause he got all the good booze!
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
I've got my charcoal process down. I'm using my Cowboy Furnace (powered by propane venturi burner). I elevated my paint can with some fire brick so it doesn't take the direct blast from the burner so it now survives fine. Had to stack some brick around the top of the furnace since the can now stuck up proud of the top. With the cover in place I can turn a 1-gallon can of Poplar scraps into charcoal in about 30 minutes.
My wife let me have our blender we got for a wedding present 15 years ago as we hardly ever use it. I think I may have used it twice to make milk shakes over the years. Anyway it pulverizes KNO3 prills into dust with ease. As it does the Poplar charcoal bits. I wear a respirator when pulverizing as it makes such a fine dust it actually looks like smoke when you take the lid off the blender.
I've got a 2-drum Harbor Freight tumbler ready to go, though I will likely only drive one drum of powder at a time. I've got a peanut butter jar full of wheel weight lead .69 round balls ready to use as media.
I'll probably go pick up a 12-ton press from Harbor Freight this weekend. Then I'm just waiting for Fly's Puck to arrive and I'm in business!
Steve
Hi guys,
When you end up with fines after grinding your pucks, do the fines go back into the tumbler for the milling stage or do you mix them directly with green powder at the puck-making stage?
I'd assume since they have already been milled and pressed that they could go straight into the puck making step.
Steve
I throw mine back in the ball mill with the next batch, but that's just what I do.
Fly
I just put them back in the press and solidify them again. Whatever is left that isn't enough for another puck is pan priming powder and it works very well.
Bob
GUNFIRE! The sound of Freedom!
Got my Fly Puck yesterday, thanks Fly!
From re-reading this thread (I'm on page 61) it seems like in order to get the 3500 PSI that Goex uses a 20-ton press is needed.
Steve
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |