The old molds were quite easy to disassemble but the new style have ,what looks to be, allen head set screws. Anyone know what is required to remove these?
The old molds were quite easy to disassemble but the new style have ,what looks to be, allen head set screws. Anyone know what is required to remove these?
These look like allen head set screws but are actually a helical cut pin, pressed in, and into a blind hole none the less. The only trick is to locate the blind end of the other side, drill it through and knock the pressed in pins out. Really not a horrible task but you might end up drilling/tapping the blocks to take another arrangement to "pin" the blocks back on the handles afterwards.
~ Chris
Casting, reloading, shooting, collecting, restoring, smithing, etc, I love it all but most importantly, God, Family, The United States Constitution and Freedom...
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After you beat it enough to try to get the bullet to drop, the pin just falls out. Ugh.
Hahahaha!
Ain’t it the truth!
Good answer, and welcome aboard ktoons.
"Time and money don't do you a bit of good until you spend them." - My Dad
If bullets don't drop easy after a couple of uses, clean well, soap and water and toothbrush. Run hotter than you think you should, frosted bullets, and let cool again and if hot, they should drop easy. I find my Lee's drop easier than some of my aluminum noe
..............The 'screws' to hold the handles on are NOT screws. They're "Drive rivits" and have a very slow thread pitch. They're only truly intended to go in, and NOT come out. Those of us old enough to have had experience with Chevy cast iron V-8 intake manifolds will remember them from the sheet metal insulator riveted to their underside. I have had some success when using needle nose Vise-Grip pliers on them. Once clamped on, pull UP and also slowly twist counter clockwise at the same time.
...............Buckshot
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With the original single Lee molds I quickly came to the conclusion that I was having no more it after just one sample. When they came to their senses and used the pin design I have now purchased 4 of them. This was a much needed improvement. I have not had to beat the molds to get a drop except for the 1 ounce drive key slug mold which I dropped and damaged the core, my bad.
Since new members browse here, I remind us to NOT strike the mold on the blocks in an attempt to get a drop. The hing pin nut is the place and a few modest strikes are better than a home run swing.
prs
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |