the cookie needs to fill the neck completely, leaving just enough room to seat the bullet: definitely go bigger - and what are you doing re. fouling management?
the cookie needs to fill the neck completely, leaving just enough room to seat the bullet: definitely go bigger - and what are you doing re. fouling management?
I run a patch every 5 shots. As I am developing a load that will shoot better than 10" at 100m. I figure I should do all 5 at once. I do blow tube between shots. The idea is for a hunting load where I could be taking a follow up shot. I was thinking I should save the filler a bit and add more grease cookie.
One other thing that can make the base of the patch stick to the bullet is crimp.
Anything other than powder used for a filler won't do much to bring about good accuracy.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
Don't use any filler, and blowtube only - or wipe every shot. And she'll easily shoot better than 4" at 100 if you do your thing
I use just enough filler to bring the level of material just to the base of the neck. When I drop tube 85gr I need 15gr of cow/Fffg mix to accomplish this. So should I just add more powder to just get to the neck base? Unfortunately I don't have any fg and have been using ffg and I won't be getting any fg for a while. Thanks
I would say yes to add more powder even if it is 2f. Don't drop tube it, so it doesn't take quite as much.
Long range rules, the rest drool.
I know this sounds like heresy, but I'd say to omit the filler, don't increase the powder quantity and leave air in that (huge) case. If you don't feel comfortable with that, use foam backing rod - but keep away from granular filler: the tend to increase pressures in abrupt BN cases like 577-450, and can even rip necks off in extreme cases.
FWIW,
I have shot 1000+ rounds with a bit of airspace between lube cookie and powder level, works just fine. And don't droptube - you drop tube in order to compact the powder, so you can get more in the case - but the 577-450 case is already way bigger than needed, so certainly no need to make things worse and compact the powder so you can fit more...
Last edited by martinibelgian; 08-25-2017 at 03:05 AM.
Thanks for the information. Greatly appreciated, now I have some more playing around to do.
punched out 1/8" thick dry felt wads make for good fillers.
Mgvande
You never described the bullet your using other then a slick. Some will call a GG a slick when they wrap it with paper.
If your using a grooved bullet and patch it chances are that when the soft lead you said your using will compress the bullet grooves and hold the paper.
If your using one of the hollow based bullets from a Lee mould and twist the tail in the hollow or cup based bullet it will hold the patch that is inside of the case mouth. Any of this plus if your blow tubing and getting to much moisture the patch will stick in the grooves if your patching a grooved bullet of even a proper PP bullet (with out lube grooves) undersized using soft alloys the wrinkles when the base gets pushed forward. Running a bullet through a sizing die that is way over sized or using a lube on the patch can stick the patch. Lube on a naked bullet left on when running it through a die. Gluing a patch with egg white I see some using to keep the patch fron unraveling is a sure thing for paper sticking on the bullet.
I'm using a flat sided bullet for pp. flat based. I think it is 470gr. I loaded some more with very little water just to get them on but I haven't been able to hit the range yet. Perhaps tonight.
Using organic fillers like corn meal, cream of wheat, grits in bottle necked cases is not the best thing to use below the case necks they turn into a solid mass like these corn meal bullets I make for forming .44-90 bottle necked cases from straight wall basic brass. they will spike the chamber pressure if you use it below the shoulder.
Attachment 202771
So I think I have to up my charge slightly and not drop tube so I get just to where the neck starts. This will get rid of the pressure problems regarding fillers. I will try this out as I'm still wary of leaving an air space. I actually have a different problem with a 43 Beaumont. I am using heavy bullets and not much of a neck.
You can always use foam backing rod cut to the correcdt length - too much powder does hurt (1 got to somewhere between 100-110grs of powder before getting rid of all the airspace, not droptubed, uncompressed) and isn't good for accuracy - been there, done that...
I can give that foam rod a go. I just shot another 5 shot group last night with double the cookie I usually do and I am now getting grease at the muzzle. I did find a circle of patch at 100 meters from the back of the bullet. That's no good so I will follow advice and ensure the whole back of the bullet is not covered in paper. I am getting 8" 'groups' which is an improvement. I noticed that the back of my bullet gets a very slight depression after sizing as the alloy is soft. I'm thinking I can toss a veg wad under while I am sizing to mitigate this. The new paper I am using seems to be not sticking to the sides judging the slugs I dug up. I will try further testing after I'm back from Bighorn hunting. This has been a struggle to get this gun shooting but my bore is nice and shiny after blasting off all these pp rounds. An elk is going to get it this fall with this gun.
fwiw and if it's of any help, my ppb 200 yard .45-70 cartridge load. starline brass, 60.3 grains of swiss 1-1/2f w/.030 compression, two .025 milk carton wads, two .125" hard dry duro-felt wads, two .025 milk carton wads, .443 406 grain 1:20 slick (accurate molds), two wraps of papermill 9# onion paper (dry, open back w/no tail), fed 210 LRP. all wads cut on a press mounted cornell wad die. bore wipers used between shots for fouling control. i can usually get 2moa out of this load if shooting conditions (and me) are right ... sometimes better, if my eyes and trigger finger are on a really good roll as well.
How do you find seating the pp with no back? Any hang ups on the case mouth?
I wrap the same way RFD my "center" is a little smaller than yours but there is a small opening there. I use a patching board and get very consistant results at the base. the patch is set to the rail and the stop is on the bullets nose. any variance is in the height of the patch on the bullet. This has worked very well for me. A flat base is much better than the tail as the push is square and even
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |