http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.p...m9tl7ave4sdvn1
How do these work? By that I mean how are they used? Do you need anything else other than the expander?...
Thanks...BCB
http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/index.p...m9tl7ave4sdvn1
How do these work? By that I mean how are they used? Do you need anything else other than the expander?...
Thanks...BCB
What does it do?
Does it expand an unused factory gas check to fit a newly cast boolit?
Or does it expand gas checks for reuse that have been taken off boolits that have already been sized and lubed?
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That is to uniform the checks in order to get the best accuracy by flattening the base of the check, removing that little dimple in the base of the check. I believe it works best if the checks are annealed prior to using this tool. You need the die along with the correct expander for the size check you are using, i.e. one die, multiple expanders. The expander goes into the slot on your press ram where you would normally put the shellholder.
This also expands the mouth of the check for use on a bullet with an oversized gas check shank.
Last edited by oldblinddog; 08-13-2017 at 06:15 PM.
USMC 6638
If you have a 7/8-14 bolt with a reasonably flat face you might be able to avoid buying the anvil.
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Having read posts over the years of this being done by hand with self made punches and what not, many have reported increased accuracy.
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I have heard of that and using punches. I have punches but none the correct size. I have even heard of grinding a punch to the correct diameter. Don't think I have anything that would do that with any type of accuracy or squareness...
What size bearing would you use for a 30 caliber check?...
Thanks...BCB
If you can buy checks that fit the shank you have your better off. I used the expander from NOE and then bought checks from one of the vendors here. Hands down the checks that fit my shanks worked better.
With the NOE check expander I use 7/8X14 bolt as mentioned above. For me the expander works best when you expand as little as possible to get the check on the over size shank. I put a check on the expander and raise it to the top of the press stroke and then turn the bolt down until I feel slight contact. This usually gets the job done, if not slowly adjust the bolt down until you get the check flared enough to go on. If you bring the expander up hard against the bolt (or anvil) the check is badly distorted in experience. Before I purchased these I made my own out of the closest size bolt shank and used a drill press to provide the leverage this works well also and was from a thread posted by Ben. Gp
The fella who designed this tool and sold the prints to Al at NOE made and gave me one as a gift last year for .30cal checks. It works awesome and No need to anneal or anything like that. Quick and easy and very effective for those times when checks can be difficult to put on squarely.
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But annealing works better, then the hornady checks don't stick on the tool. It's basically a TC nose profile. GCs don't sit well on top of mine so I had some 'deformed' ones. It needs a slight centering ridge on the nose to keep them from sliding off.
Whatever!
I agree with popper in that a ridge or groove to hold the check in proper position would be a big improvement. Another thing I'd like to pass along is how I've been annealing my homemade aluminum checks. I use an old pellet tin and load it up with the flat discs I cut with the PM check maker. I place the tin on the flat surface hot plate that I use for warming moulds, set the temp to high and heat the discs for one hour. This really makes a difference in how the checks seat. Well, it works for me anyway. lol. Gp
I also have some trouble with the checks fitting the punch and have ruined a few of them. I was thinking that some type of sleeve of the same tool steel that would slide over the punch would keep them in place. It would have to be just slightly shorter than the punch itself so that it does not contact the anvil. I think it would work.
USMC 6638
Another thing to maybe consider, and this may not be the right solution to everyone, but it sure helped me with the tight check problem. The NOE gas check seating die: http://noebulletmolds.com/NV/product...products_id=33
It does not crimp the gas checks on, it only helps seat them. It's a one trick pony, but does the one thing very well. Helps me seat the tight checks nice and square. This video explains how the gas check seating die works:
https://youtu.be/Wwaw0kqNJRY
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |