I've read about paper patching for years (no small amount of it on this site). I finally decided to give it a whirl and just wanted to get any input that anyone wanted to chime in with.
I have a later model production Ruger #1 .45-70. I do know that I'll need to get all of the lead/jacket fouling out before I start shooting my patched bullets. BTW, this rifle has little to no throat.
My patches are regular printer paper (.003"), cut at 60deg. on both ends, and ran up to about 1/16" or bit more past the front driving band onto the ogive.
My first batch will be some MiHec 270-SAA's (1/2 shot, 1/2 WW alloy, aircooled) that I've sized to .452, patched up to .464, coated with LLA, then sized back down to .459. I've finished a few of these. It's a challenge, but my technique is improving.
My plan is to load these on a case full of Trail Boss (guessing around 16.5-17grains), Starline Brass, Fed. 210. I'll give the case mouth a generous bell and crimp juuuuust enough to bump the bell back in. Eventually, I'd like to have a bit more speed (think 2400) with this load, but for starts, I just want a case FULL of powder.
My next plant is to do the same thing with some Lee 405HB's. These are straight aircooled WW. Sized down to .452, patched up, then back down to .459. I have a 355 Ranch Dog mold I could do the same with. Trail Boss or a case full of 3031 is the plan here.
If this works, I've got a '98 Krag with a rough bore. It'll shoot jacketed bullets well enough, but I've not tried cast. Thinking paper patch will be the way to go.
Eventually, I'd like to make a paper patch mold (one piece) on my lathe (if I ever get it moved into my shop). I've looked for threads here on mold making (one piece paper patch in particular) but can't find anything (may be looking wrong), any input there?
Thanks!!!