Don't know if this will help you or not...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8yC6RVKwMw
Don't know if this will help you or not...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N8yC6RVKwMw
"Truth is treason in the empire of lies" Ron Paul
161,
PM sent with a consideration.
Thanks.
Now ,I'm wondering what(other than the markings) what would be the diff.twixt a 38 Sp. Off.Police Barrel, and the one marked 38 short colt..?????????? onceabull
"The Eagle is no flycatcher"
32/20 revolvers have a reputation for having squibs occur firing factory smokeless loads. I run 3 revolvers and a rifle in this caliber, and watch for it at all times. Once solution for this trait was to use SR-4756 powder, per Ken Waters in "Pet Loads". I have fired at least 2500 rounds of 32/20 in wheelguns using between 5.0 and 6.0 grains of 4756 (110-120 grain cast bullets) and have yet to experience any squibs or weak ignitions. CCI 500 and WSP primers get the call.
So don't beat yourself up over the squib and following rounds. You could have done everything right and still had it happen. I had ONE, using Unique in my Colt Bisley. A few taps with a brass rod later, it was back in business. As said, I watch for such things in my 32/20s. It's what they do. Some of these blackpowder calibers did not make the transition to smokeless powder as gracefully as others did.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
A frequent problem with older .32-20 revolvers is that barrel-cylinder gaps were often large, over 0.008" and frequently as large as 0.010" which when combined with jacketed bullets in factory softpoint loads typically being .310" and cylinder throat diameters in old revolvers often as large as .315", you have a recipe for gas loss, failure to build enough pressure to overcome the greater bore drag of jacketed bullets, and high risk of a bullet-in-bore (BIB) malfunction.
The key is to use lubricated lead bullets which FIT! Typically .313" IF chamber necks in your cylinder are generous enough to accept the larger bullet.
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Keep it to yourself.
Well guys that makes me feel better. I tore down some of the shells I loaded and found nothing wrong. I weighed the rest of them as loaded ammo and found them consistent in there weight. Everything you said about squids makes sense. It was an 85 grain xtp and RX7 with a Small Rifle Primer
Thanks
Warren
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
Outpost--In the case I cited, one of those factors is/was present--cylinder/forcing cone gap is a bit wide, .007" via feeler gauge. The Unique powder was half-burned, and made a yellowish mess inside the case, cylinder, and bore behind the bullet. Bullet was a home-cast 92/6/2 flatnose plainbase, sized to correspond to the Bisley's throats (.314"). Primers were either WSP or CCI-500, and the pin impression was normal. My guess at the time was "Weak primer impulse", but that is much as I can say.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
My experience with Unique is that it does not ignite easily or burn uniformly at very low pressures below about 13,000 psi. I stuck a bullet in a Webley MkVI .455 with Unique powder using a published Lyman load in a revolver with large cylinder gap. Fortunately I noticed the weak report, stopped and tapped the bullet out. In shooting up the rest of the box of ammo this happened twice more!
I changed to Bullseye and have had no further problems.
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
I had similar good outcomes using SR-4756. Naturally, it went out of print last year.
I wonder if any of these new IMR shotgun-speed powders run close to SR-4756 performance. I know very little more about them than that they are now on scene, and arrived after PB and 4756 departed. They seem "positioned" to compete head-on with Alliant powders. If they ignite more readily than Unique or Herco, they might be a step forward rather than the whatzis emulation they seem to be.
The Winchester primers' fuel element "magic" might find a place in such applications. As Mr. Harris long ago noted in American Rifleman, that trait was developed to address powder bad attitudes.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
I have been using Herco in 32/20 revolvers with good results. An article in Handloader by Gil Sengel (I think) has been my guide.
Bruce--
When SR-4756 got discontinued, Herco was my first thought as a replacement fuel for 32/20 wheelgun loads. I already have good amounts on hand, and it does great work in 12 gauge heavy field loads--28 gauge 3/4 oz loads--and as cast bullet food in the plain-base SWC loads I put up in the magnum revolver calibers (950-1100 FPS). I already use 5X as much Herco as I do Unique, so it would make sense to adopt Herco for the purpose. I would need to re-read Ken Waters' Pet Loads article on the subject, but I seem to recall that he had some positive results with Herco as well.
I don't paint bullets. I like Black Rifle Coffee. Sacred cows are always fair game. California is to the United States what Syria is to Russia and North Korea is to China/South Korea/Japan--a Hermit Kingdom detached from the real world and led by delusional maniacs, an economic and social basket case sustained by "foreign" aid so as to not lose military bases.
A lot of good information here thanks for the help. I have the 38 short 6 inch barrel on the way. I'm kinda looking forward to relining it to .312 myself. I have a mill and a lathe and my brother is a machinist by trade. Ill keep you folks posted on the progress.
Thanks
Warren
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-COLT...UAAOSwceNZPDk3 Here you go. The army special front sight may be narrower than the official police.
^^^^And that's the ticket!!!
It will be much cheaper to buy this and have it installed than to reline something else. Have it re-blued, or rust-blue it your self, and Bob's your uncle!
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
I put a bid in we'll see what happened. Thanks for finding it.
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
I think you got it for .99 plus shipping, congrats.
The 99 cent 4 inch barrel I won on ebay arrived today. It looks serviceable and it looks like when I get the barrel tight it will have around .005 .006 cylinder gap. Enough people have told me that I can't reline a 38 barrel to 32 that I'm going to just to prove them wrong. I have a 6 inch 38 short barrel and 8 inchs of 1 in 16 twist 32 20 liner. I'll keep you posted.
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
I took the 6 inch 38 short barrel and bored it open to .3985. The OD of the barrel is .50 I wanted to be sure I left enough metal on the frame end of the barrel so the threads had something to hang onto. I cut a .002 shoulder in the forcing cone and a corresponding .002 shoulder on the liner so the liner had something to butt up against. Turned the liner down to .399 and used a file as the lathe was turning to make a nice snug fit. It took a few taps on the bench to set the lined into the final shoulder I cut into the forcing. I covered the liner with JB Weld before installing it and let it set over night. I think it looks pretty good for a redneck with no experience doing it. Apparently the 38 short had a shorter cylinder so I have plenty of metal to trim for cylinder gap. Any thoughts so far?
"Some times it's just better to smile an walk away."
-161
"Think ya used enough dynamite there, Butch?"
-Butch Cassidy & the Sun-dance Kid
Sounds great to me. Looking forward to further reports!
The ENEMY is listening.
HE wants to know what YOU know.
Keep it to yourself.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |