I have used CCI primers exclusively, never had a problem that wasn't "MY" fault. ALL of my brass goes through the Dillon Super Swager before the primer box is even opened. NEVER had a problem so far, and I've been loading since the 60's
I have used CCI primers exclusively, never had a problem that wasn't "MY" fault. ALL of my brass goes through the Dillon Super Swager before the primer box is even opened. NEVER had a problem so far, and I've been loading since the 60's
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I've noticed some of my Federal brass seems to have a sharper "shoulder" than some other brass, making it more difficult to start primers.
I use a primer pocket cutter that relieves the pocket shoulder, making it easier to start the primer. Same idea as flaring the case mouth to help start a boolit.
Perhaps I am wrong, but the OP did state that he used a pocket uniformer. I thought that all of them cut the pockets to a uniform size (hence the name....pocket uniformer).
I just used up a small batch of large pistol primers from the same era. My RCBS hand priming tool did not survive. I sent the tool and the primer sleeves with lot numbers to RCBS for repair.
I have been having good results with Winchester WLP in the last several years. Primer trouble must go in cycles.
S&B brass are notorious for having tight primer pockets, I have gone through all of mine with my primer pocket uniformer, and then beveled the entrance with my RCBS deburring tool. Then they work perfectly, even with CCI primers. I also have been using CCI LP primers for decades, no problems seating them in any other brass than S&B.
Make sure your 550's priming system is setup properly, being just slightly off can cause you all sorts of problems.
I treat S&B brass just like crimped brass and run it through my RCBS swagger, then it never is a problem.
I deprime all my brass before wet tumbling this really helps the 550 priming system to run with out any problems.
Because I hand prime, 9/10 times I can just rotate the S&B brass until I hit a spot where the primer will seat. I've only had a few S&B's that refused to take a primer. If I were priming on the press I'd sort the S&B's out for sure. Big pain.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I use a variety of brands with no issue - except with a small primer .45 neaks in to the pile or cheap brass as mentioned before.
EVERY GOOD SHOOTER NEEDS TO BE A HANDLOADER.
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The only times I've had problems with high primers in domestic brass it's been with CCI.
Yep, it's pretty bad. I also saw Amerc mentioned and have to agree, it's worse than S&B.
I have two sets of primer pocket reamers (not uniformers), Lyman and Hornady. I can't tell that the Lyman does much but the Hornady is ground tool steel and does a great job. I highly recommend the Hornady to anyone with primer pocket issues. As they remove the crimp ring they also chamfer the primer pocket so primers enter smoothly.
Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris
I use the LE Wilson primer pocket reamer and it chamfer's the crimp ring of the primer pocket that have been crimped.
I use mostly WLP primers and have used CCI which did not run as smoothly as the WLP.
I mostly use CCI but sometimes I have to buy Winchester primers and it seams like they are too soft , I never crush a CCI but I have a lot with Winchester.
I like 1911's and Wheel Guns , Wood Stocks and Blue Metal , Dislike Black on Black and Magazines on Rifles whats this country coming to.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |