Lee pro 1000 questions

[DerekP Houston]

Rp, it's pretty common for the screw holes in the hopper to crack (I have several like that, a couple I repaired but I ended up getting two upgrade kits). You can also completely replace the alloy handle/lever link assembly by buying the newer replacement parts, which is what I did. Not particularly expensive either. These presses may need a bit of fiddling/tweaking/modifying but once set they work quite well - but I've learned to take it slow, don't try and rattle them through fast!

That was how a broke my hopper twice and finally bought the upgrade kit as my LGS was sold out of the others.

That is an interesting point about the shell holder being missized for 9mm, perhaps would explain some of my frustrations.

I really wanted it to work for 38 special, but personally I couldn't get the case feeder, primers reliably feeding, or auto eject to work without constant tinkering. I am known to get frustrated with tools like this so my wife wisely suggested I look else where. I have seen plenty of videos and heard personal praises of th working fine, just wasn't for me no hard feelings.

[Rp-]

Well, I have time and I don't know when to give up

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[kmw1954]

Rp- I have a Pro 1000 that I've picked up recently. It is a used one but was complete and got it for a very reasonable price. This one came with 38spl. dies and shell plate. The only thing that was missing is the cover for the primer tray.

I'm just now getting back into shooting and reloading after being away from it almost 30 years. My last press was a Bonanza "86" single stage and worked nicely for pistol cases. It was reliable, accurate and slow.

I will only be reloading 9mm at this time because it's the only caliber I have. Just found some nice used 9mm dies and tool head on ebay and am still looking for a shell plate for it. Agree from what I've read that the #6 plate is the way to go.

Did a lot of reading on many of the forums and watching youtube videos before I bought this press. Was undecided before I bought this whether I wanted this one, the Classic turret or the Load Master. I decided on the Pro as the LM was much more complicated with moving parts and the Classic is basically a single stage operation.

A few things I learned while searching this press. The 1st thing is mounting this press in that it works much better and reliably on a rock solid bench. Movement and shaking upsets it, especially when using the on press priming system. Next is the shell plate for the 9mm, the #19 plate doesn't always center the shell over the primer anvil causing problems. Then comes the primer feed shoot which must be kept clean and full. Seems to be notorious for fouling with spilled powder and keeps the primers from feeding smoothly.

As for the powder measure and small charges I'd read an article for taking the disk and drilling and tapping the front facing the user and inserting a set screw. The it is used just as the adjustable charge bar is used. I haven't tried it yet but I am going to.

[Rp-]

If you want to get rid of your 38 plate ill gladly take it off your hands. I have hornady dies already but they don't have the powder thru expander die.

I understand the concept of drilling/tapping. Seems like an easy fix. I'm going to pickup the pro a.d. upgrade for my existing a.d. setup. The upgrade kit comes with the adjustable bar on it already. Everything I've read about it so far is mixed about 60/40 love it or hate it. I figure I'll give it a try and see how much it pisses me off!

I still haven't read enough good stuff to justify trying to prime on this press. It also helps that I already have a hand primer and don't mind using it. And it's also 1/3 the price to just buy the shell plate for 9m m than to buy the whole carrier!

Going to order the shell plate and upgrade kit this weekend.

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[dikman]

I forgot to mention in my previous post that I use the adjustable charge bar (actually two of them) and haven't had any problems.

[kmw1954]

I'll be keeping the dies and shell plate because my brother has a 38spl and at some point I hope to get another S&W Model 19 or 66.

My plan it to try the measure with the modification and if it leaks too much or isn't consistent then I'll but the Auto Drum which has rave reviews from what I've found.

If you roam around Titan Reloading you will find that there isn't a single piece on this entire press that can't be replaced. Including all parts for the carrier and primer system. The only part that I've found that can't be replaced is the plastic cover for the round primer tray. That's been replaced with a new model tray.

Again the one consistent fault with the primer function all goes back to cleanliness and movement. With those 2 items addressed it seems to work very well.

Knowing that with the press mounted on the bench I have the press doesn't move a bit. But I'll know for certain once I get a shell plate and actually use it.

[HeavyMetal]

So how are you guys planning to handle the spent primer issue?

On the Pro 1000 you'll need to unbolt the stock press every few thousand rounds and empty the bottom of primer.

One of mine has the new style base, which I replaced because the bolt holes holding the linkage in were wobbled out allowing movement of the carrier, add in the #19 shell plate and I crunched a few case's before I figured it out.

Any why I went with Titan's primer chute which when mounted in the new style base allows you to drill a hole in your bench mount area and run a plastic tube from the base into a container for the old primers!

Life is so much easier with this set up, very much a copy of the Classic cast press primer system!

The other press has the old style base which has to much reinforcement in it to allow the spent primer chute to be installed.Since this older press is tighter than my first one I will live with it until I need to repair it.

Again check titans web site for the do hicky it really works very well!

HM

[kmw1954]

In my case I notched the bench top and will use a catch pan under the top.

[Boolit_Head]

You can also use standoffs to raise the press and insert a small tray underneath.

[Rp-]

You can also use standoffs to raise the press and insert a small tray underneath.

Genius

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[Kenstone]

Old thread but here's a pic of some stand-offs...5/16" coupling nuts, with a steel plate on the bench top.

[Rp-]

Ive loaded 40 and 45 on my pro 1000 now. First station was flare and powder, second was seat, third was crimping. Worked great.

I got tired of deprimig on the single and decided to setup to deprime and size on the pro1000. Unfortunately the rachet gears seem to have failed. New ones on order now.

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[Boolit_Head]

I stumbled across this mount on Ebay. Just got it in and it is beefy and looks like it will work well.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/192089139698...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

[44Vaquero]

Boolit Head, The guy that makes those is a member of our Fb page Lee Reloading and Casting Group. I can attest that they are of good quality and sturdy construction. Many of our members have purchased them.

[Moonie]

I've got these for both my turret and pro1000, they work well with a small hole drilled in my bench and a small cardboard box under it to catch spent primers.

http://www.titanreloading.com/press-...n-primer-chute

[OuchHot!]

My pro1000 was bought new about 1980. I built a wood riser for it with a butter tub to catch the primers. It definitely had a learning curve but works very well once you figure out what it wants...this includes using a decisive stroke to the handle. The vibes help the primer feed out. There was a fellow that made some very good you-tubes on the quirks of the pro1000. He used to use a moniker of "sfliberalwithagun" and after moving from sf, "cowboy" or something like that. I am not familiar with the new primer feed but it could hardly not be an improvement. I still do all my .38spec on one in spite of having two mainstream progressives. I do not change calibers on the pro1k...

[curt48mauser]

I realize I am late to the party on the topic of the Lee Pro 1000. Using the 9mm shell plate is the same as the .40 cal shell plate on mine. The shell plate fits the .40 cal perfectly whereas the 9mm is "loose" in the plate and seemed to cause misalignment for the primer feed for me. Maybe Lee has developed a different 9mm shell plate that is for an actual 9mm case-not the two calibers/one plate solution. The one thing I did that helped my primer feed was to put some extra groves on the ring bar so it shakes the primer tray more and keeps the primers moving down the slide.

Curt

[kmw1954]

Curt the party never ends!

I've been using my Pro exclusively for 9mm and using the #19 shell plate. I also prime on the press.

The other day I had my 1st sideways primer and that was caused by my own mistake. I was using the press to work up some new loads with a different bullet and lost my train of operation. While checking a powder drop I advanced the next shell and didn't seat a primer which dropped powder all over the anvil which caused the primer to sit tilted on the anvil. I could feel the difference right way as I was seating that primer. I cleaned up my mistake and moved on w/o any further issues. That little mishap also provided a great learning experience.

My experience with this press has reinforced one thing on the use of this press and priming on press. This press must be mounted to the bench so it does not move. No wiggle, no jiggle, no flex in the bench top. If you do that then the priming system works very well. One must remember and understand that on this press the primers do not sit in a cup. They sit on a open flat anvil and any movement of the press can disrupt the primer from sitting in the center of the anvil.

If that is too much to ask or expect to deal with then move on to something else or prime off press. Which to me defeats the whole purpose of the press.

[Rp-]

My latest update:

I tried to run some 9mm through the press. I have it set to size on stage one and flare on stage two. Stage three is open.

Well the thing kept binding up something fierce. I pulled it apart and cleaned/lubed several times with no change. Lubed with a couple different lubes.

Finally I pulled it apart to replace the gears and found the large gear wouldn't go back in. On closer inspection I found the hole isn't round anymore. Where the gear sits has been crushed. I never noticed this before but it explains a lot.

I used a dremil to open up the flat side a little and got it working slightly. I was able to get through about 200 cases without much hangups, aside from the occasional case feed problems.

I am ready to send it back to Lee for a factory refurb.

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[kmw1954]

Any way to post a few pictures of your carrier? I'd be interested to see the damage. Any clue to the cause?