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Thread: Soft Lead poor fill out?

  1. #1
    Boolit Master
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    Soft Lead poor fill out?

    I purchased some lead from a guy who cuts keels out of sail boats i plan to use for muzzleloading bullets. The lead is plenty soft and i have fluxed it several times but it takes 850 for it to pour a decent looking bullet and decent fill out using a TC aluminium mold. Do i need to add a little tin? It seems like its a little too "thick". I have a RCBS 20lb pot so how much tin would i need to add to get a thinner more consistent flow.Its diffucult to pour it into a round ball mould with that itty bitty hole.Thanks for any help!

  2. #2
    Boolit Grand Master Outpost75's Avatar
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    I use 1:40 tin-lead for all of my black powder balls and bullets, both muzzleloading and cartridge. Good fill out and only minimal hardening from slight addition of tin. Over 750 degs. F will "cook" off any tin present through drossing. Do not depend on the analog thermostatic control on your lead pot, ALWAYS check melt temperature with a thermometer.
    Last edited by Outpost75; 03-04-2017 at 07:43 PM.
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  3. #3
    Boolit Master




    TexasGrunt's Avatar
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    How are you measuring that 850°?

    I poured 45 lbs of fishing lures today with pure lead and my Pro-Melt works just fine at 750°, confirmed with my Lyman thermometer.
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    Currently casting for .223, .308, .30-06, .30-40 Krag, 9mm, .38/.357, 10mm, 44 Mag and 45 ACP.

    I like strange looking boolits!

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  4. #4
    Boolit Master


    Soundguy's Avatar
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    I also agree that a very low tin content addition should help fill out, but not harden too much, even for revolver balls

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    Actually, we can't know, since we DO NOT KNOW the composition of your keel metal.

    It is as simple as that. All anybody here can do is guess. You have a mystery metal.

    It is up to you to have it analyzed or not. Until then, you WILL NOT know any more than anybody else.

    Good luck.

  6. #6
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    check the alloy temp.
    work the mold temp higher.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    here is a little more info on my lead pouring. the mold im using is a TC 240 grain Aluminium mold maxi ball. with this alloy its dropping at 241 grains. My rcbs .495 round ball mold is dropping at 181 grains.the lead is from a boat keel.i dont beleive its junk alloy since its dropping at the mold weight.i have zero experience with aluminium molds.i did discover if i run it fast and hot i get get bullets.however im not crazy about pouring at the max temp on my pro melt.

  8. #8
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    the aluminum mold is shedding heat quickly you have no choice but to pour more heat in it to keep up.
    I go through a single cavity 375 cal ball steel mold and never quit moving.
    it's fill open dump close fill open dump close fill.
    just around and around in circles.

  9. #9
    Boolit Man PtMD989's Avatar
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    My expectations aren't real high for the first few castings. When I first start my casting session usually about the first dozen casts are ugly. I don't even think about keeping them. But once the mold heats up they look a lot better. This with a Lee real 320 aluminum mold and pure PB.


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  10. #10
    Boolit Grand Master

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    My TC aluminum moulds are the smallest blocks in outside dimensions I have they are harder to keep up to casting temp due to this. Less mass looses heat faster. Though they do come up to temp faster also.

  11. #11
    Boolit Buddy
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    Yep...aluminum molds cool quickly.... also...think about adding some pewter to your mix...it help fill out...

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check