I had a gun shop that was set on fire. I had brass for sale packaged in heat seal plastic. That plastic melted allnover the brass. How can I remove it without over heating the heads. .308 & 30-06.
I had a gun shop that was set on fire. I had brass for sale packaged in heat seal plastic. That plastic melted allnover the brass. How can I remove it without over heating the heads. .308 & 30-06.
Lowes still sells MEK. That should take it off. MEK need proper PPE and venting
Are you sure that that brass wasn't subjected to heat that might have annealed it already? Or as the plastic just melted, not charred or exhibiting any signs it was in the 6 to 800o range
NRA PATRON LIFE MEMBER
Space for Witty Signature Line FOR RENT...........Cheap
I reality 400*-500* would do it if it was for a long enough time. Some of those fire beds stay hot a long time along with concrete Iron and non flamables that just hold heat due to mass. I would be very leary of that brass due to this. Look at remains if possible what burnt and melted warped may give an idea of temps.
I would scrap it. Keep in mind that at a minimum even if just one case lets go it can do serious damage to your rifle and at worst kill or harm you or a loved one or a friend. You did not say how many pieces there were, but I'm going to guess less than 500 pieces, is that worth a rifle or an eye?
If you have some way to verify that the brass was not subjected to heat, like that the melted plastic just dripped onto the brass from a small fire above, you'll have to make your own determination, but as said above, a normal structure fire has the ability to anneal brass with ease, and you really cannot be sure by sight alone if it has been annealed or not. With a structure fire you can easily create an environment where there is no oxygen, thus you can fail to get the coloration normally seen on annealed brass.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
As Ron said, scrap it. Safety first.
This is the swaging forum... Anneal that stuff and make 458 jackets!
Trading feedback page: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
I don't have a .458 firearm. Thank you for the replies.
Trading feedback page: http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
that plastic melts at a pretty low temp.
I suspect that any temperature which melted the plastic was far less than the 400 degrees plus required to anneal it. If the plastic reached those temps would it not have burned rather than melt?
Respectfully,
Bill
Micah 6:8
He hath shewed thee, O man, what is good; and what doth the LORD require of thee, but to do justly, and to love mercy, and to walk humbly with thy God?
"I don't have hobbies - I'm developing a robust post-apocalyptic skill set"
I may be discharged and retired but I'm sure I did not renounce the oath that I solemnly swore!
How many do you have? Maybe we can talk a trade.
Bill
I second the MEK, Acetone might also do the trick.
The non chemical route might be a wire wheel on a dremel....
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |