Lee 2 cavity sprue plate?

[TexasGrunt]

Is there a better sprue plate available than what Lee provides?

[fred2892]

I could make one but it would cost more than a new mould

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[MT Chambers]

Get a better mold and you'll get a better sprue plate.

[Tackleberry41]

Being the budget molds they are, most are not going to pay $20 for an improved sprue plate, for a $24 mold.

They can be improved tho. I have not really found a Lee 2 bullet mold that the sprue plate doesn't score up the top of a mold out of the box. They are just stamped, plenty of rough edges. I have been sanding them flat and smooth. Some 600grit then 1000 grit sandpaper, some oil, really flat surface. Then a file on the edges, sand them smooth. Makes a huge difference. Run into one here or there to warped to 'leement' or whatever you wish to call it. Just part of the kit process of owning a Lee mold.

[TexasGrunt]

Get a better mold and you'll get a better sprue plate.

If I could afford a better mold I'd have one. I'm trying to work with what I have. I have one Lee mold where the sprue plate is warped a bit and not making contact with the top of the mold.

Could I take the sprue plate off and use a hammer to flatten the sprue plate?

[Maven]

TG, You can indeed remove the sprue plate and straighten it, but you'll need to install a set screw to hold the sprue plate bolt firmly in position. Also, if it's a new production Lee mold, that bolt may have left-hand threads. I.e., you may need to turn it clockwise to remove it. As for straightening the sprue plate, put the corner with the bolt hole in a bench vise at a 45 deg. angle and strike it with a carpenter's hammer: This is a "cut & try" operation, so if you overdo it, just hit the other side until it's flat. While you're at it, polish the bottom and any rough edges so the now flat plate doesn't score/gall the mold top.

Btw, the above has saved quite a few Lee molds for me. Hope this helps!

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

Years ago, there was a group buy for aftermarket sprue plates (for the Lee 2cav). I ordered several under the impression they were thicker steel than the original (they weren't)...I obviously misunderstood? or what was offered originally had changed and I missed the post about the change? anyway, I surely wasn't notified about the change. Add to that, the sprue holes aren't perfectly located, and my plan was to use these for 22 bator molds...so location is critical for that application (I don't remember how much "off" they were exactly?)

It's been years since I looked at them. I suspect they'd work fine for pistol boolits that are 35 cal or larger. The plates are the same thickness, so the original sprue screw can be re-used (I suspect this was the reason for the change of thickness?) They are laser cut instead of stamped like Lee does and I believe the were made from stress-relieved steel, so they should be as flat as it gets for a plate that wasn't machined (surface grind).

Send me a PM if you want to try one.

[NoAngel]

If you spend a little time on the Lee plates, they work so much better.

I first take a file and go around the outside edge and make sure there are no burrs, to the point of putting a small radius all the way around the mold side.

Then, lightly chamfer the screw hole and lastly, and most importantly (from what I've seen), Use a good flat stone and stone the mold side smooth and flat.

Lee makes these plates with a blanking die and it's amazing how warped they can be. I've had a few that needed a little persuasion with a hammer and anvil to get perfectly flat. YMMV.

Getting them flat, NO burrs and well lubricated will take care of almost all your problems there.

[JonB_in_Glencoe]

TG, You can indeed remove the sprue plate and straighten it, but you'll need to install a set screw to hold the sprue plate bolt firmly in position.

...SNIP

While this is certainly the best method, I have read a couple of 'redneck' solutions. One, using a few strands of fine steel wool (like 00 or finer). I haven't tried that, and I suspect it's risky as you might wreck the threads in the mold, if you don't get it right and the screw needs to be removed a few times. The other one, is using a layer or 2 of plain dental floss wrapped on the screw.

[K.O.]

Well for me I am looking to deck a Lee Bator to about 44g and a couple of the new 225-55-rf to about 48g and 41g for use in an air rifle at about 55-65 fpe... see pic below





What I need is smaller sprue holes like on the N.O.E. BBT .25 and .217/220 so that the base of the round does not distort when cutting the sprue... other wise well it is not quite worth doing... will Lee sell blank sprue plates with undrilled sprue holes..?

at about .140 they is just to large to do the job right, down about .125 work much better and still fill well at about 800* with the 1%-2% tin alloy that seems to work well for air rifles that stay subsonic (about 700-950 fps)...

some are pushing to 1050 fps or so but not me...

[melloairman]

If you have no luck with a new plate . I have 3 LBT 25 caliber molds that I use for my AR . Yes they cost me more than my Lee molds but they are well worth the extra cost as well .His plates are one of a kind and work better than any of the Lee, RCBS , Lyman, or Accurate cutters I have used . Marvin