Kind of looks like the lead is sloping by the HP pins, try it without pressure pouring. Check and verify the pins are making a tight fit.
I have a couple of NOE's RG moulds. When I close them, I tip them sideways to make sure the hp pins are fully seared before closing the blocks. To me it looks like the cavity is on a slant in your photo and a tipped pin would hold the blocks open a bit.
P.s. I use the same closing procedure on my MP Cramer-style moulds for the same reason.
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So before i close my noe hollowpoint mold, i lower the right side which has the pins attached and tap the hinge on the handles. This settles the pins to the bottom of the guides. It looks like the pins are getting caught standing too far into the mold cavity. Happened to me when i first started in hollowpoints. Just a learning curve.
interesting feedback, thank you all. I will try closing the mold sideways and with a tap to seat the pins. Many thanks all.
You need to make sure the pins settle. They have play so they can move around. Its easy for them to hang up. And you might consider some shims. I have found even with them settled they still often are to deep. Using the non HP pins would have a little recess in the nose. Its not one mold that does it but all my HP molds from NOE, not to say its some design issue. I made shims out of a soda can. I also keep a torch running to heat the pins between casts. I had noses not coming out right, and hollow spots in the bottom of the HP, the pins need to be hot.
HB and HP are both touchy. Good info from all. You will get it with time.
I carefully lubed the pins where they slide on the guides (friction points) and that seemed to help them move better.
Your RG pins need clearance to slide on their guides. If you close your mould in the upright position the pins will be sitting at the bottom of the cavity, in the proper position.
If you close the mould facing down the pins will sit inside the cavity a little (the distance of the guide clearance), causing the raised edge you see around the nose of your cast.
You can see this by holding the mould open and watching the free pins slide into position from each orientation. Upright will be correct, facing down will seat the pins too low.
The guides are adjustable BUT, I've never needed to adjust one... and I have quite a few.
You can find more info by visiting NOE's forum and going to the bottom of the home page.
I had the same issue with one of mine. What had occurred was that lead had gotten into the groove that the hollow point pin was supposed to go in and it held the mold blocks apart, allowing exactly the sort of problem you are getting to occur. I cured it by heating the mold very warm and scraping the the lead out the channel with a baraque skewer..
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Be sure that the pins slide in the groove easy. I had one that I disassembled and lightly filed the groove to make the pins slide better. When I reassembled the mold, I closed the mold and them tighten them down. On another mold, a fleck of lead messed it up until I removed it.
All things aside, NOE work like a fine watch.
Leadmelter
MI
HP pins set too high up in the mould?
I had some in the past that look like that
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |