Mold for 10MM Glock

[nannyhammer]

All, I have been considering buying another Glock and was thinking of either the Model 20 or new Model 40. Do any of you use the NOE 403-200 WFN RG4 GC mold in a 10MM? Does the nose profile cause feeding issues and what is the approximate weight of the bullet when using the cup HP pins? Was hoping that by using the GC bullets I could get away from the after market barrels that I use in my other Glocks.

[Oreo]

Go for the model 40, long slide. My opinion.

The NOE 200gr wfn is very similar to the 10mm wfn I drew up for MiHec. I learned during the design phase of that boolit that .40/10mm Glocks can feed almost anything up to a full wadcutter. The problem is the magazines start binding with anything bigger then a .300" meplate at 1.250" coal. So that's your criteria. You're limited to a .300" meplate.

[Elkins45]

Go for the model 40, long slide. My opinion.

The NOE 200gr wfn is very similar to the 10mm wfn I drew up for MiHec. I learned during the design phase of that boolit that .40/10mm Glocks can feed almost anything up to a full wadcutter. The problem is the magazines start binding with anything bigger then a .300" meplate at 1.250" coal. So that's your criteria. You're limited to a .300" meplate.

I second the recommendation to stay below a .3 meplat. I have that mold but not in hollow point. I wanted all 200 grains of penetration. It is a good performer based on my initial tests.

[fredj338]

I use a sim design from Accurate 40-195G, feeds 100% in my Gen3 G21sf. The meplate is 0.310" but Tom shortened the nose enough to prevent magazine binding.


http://www.accuratemolds.com/bullet_...=40-195G-D.png

[nannyhammer]

Thanks for the responses! Right now the Glock 40 seems to be leading in in my brain. Looking for something that holds more than a six banger but won't be carried concealed. Also with blue label pricing I was quoted $80 more and get a six inch barrel with longer sight radius.

[fredj338]

I only wish we could get the G40 out here. My option is buy a long slide & barrel for my 20sf.

[khmer6]

Love the 10mm glocks! I have both! Just waiting for the g40 to drop!

[nannyhammer]

Just for clarification, in your experience will a gas check really be needed for the 10MM if I plan on staying with the factory barrel. I cast for 9MM/40 Glocks and so far have managed to develop loads that don't need gas checks.

[fredj338]

I run mine close to 1200fps, nothing really gained going hotter. I don't seem to get a lot of leading. I water drop range scrap. I am going to try to hi-tek coat some & see how that runs, but I do like the bullet & it's 100% reliable.

[Greg Skinner]

I use the Accurate 40-200J (meplat 0.31) in both my G29's and G20, KKM barrels. They feed good seated at 1.24 and no problem in the magazine. My hottest loads are with AA9 at over 1200 fps and I have no leading problem - I powder coat, no gas checks. I went with the KKM barrels for case support more so than just being able to shoot cast without worry. These shoot pretty consistently inside a 2" circle at 20 yds over sand bags (with a Trijicon RMR - my eyes aren't what they used to be).

[Bongo Boy]

I've started using the mold Oreo refers to above, almost exclusively, in both the 20 and 29. I've launched a 1,000 or so downrange and have not experienced any problems with feeding, etc. I like these in 40SW too. Of course, once a fella has tasted the tangy, savory goodness of 10mm...



I've probably fired quite a bit more of the Accurate 40-180B bullet in both 40SW and 10mm though, and I can definitely recommend it or similar in teh Glock. Very, very nice. This one is seated a bit high, but you get the idea:






What I like about the good shoulder on these is that, even if they cast a little fat and the sizer takes 'em down a bit more, you still have a sharp shoulder. Plus they cut a very nice hole in paper--always a great source of satisfaction. The mold is marked 401-180B, with a 0.260" meplat. It's not retaining a sharp shoulder I like, really, it's the fact that if you have a shoulder, sizing doesn't start extending out onto the ogive--it stops at the same location (uh, the shoulder) regardless of how much sizing you do (obviously, within limits). I hate it when I seat a bullet to the depth I want, and can see the cylindrical sized region extend out beyond the case neck. It stresses me out and makes me feel like a useless failure.

As for gas checks, I've not used them, "but I've read a lot about them". My general impression is they represent a fair amount of added expense and effort, reduce my choice in bullets by a good amount, and don't solve any problem I have or that anyone I know who shoots cast bullets has. I've been pushing the 180s very hard in 10mm, and my opinion is that so long as you don't go nuts with some titanium-tough lead thinking harder lead is the answer to leading...gas checks don't seem likely to to fix anything. Again, I'm only going by what folks who appear to be experts have said, and by the fact I have never had a leading 'problem'. A bit of leading in the barrel is not, to me, a problem. In my experience, it has never continued to get worse without bound...it accumulates to some minor degree, and levels off. Comes out with a bore brush. I believe it's true that certain selected revolver calibers can benefit from them, but again, my approach would be that use of gas checks would be the last resort to solving a problem (or just providing a benefit) that no other approach would provide.

My Little Hammer in zombie apocalypse garb...

[khmer6]

Sweet looking g29!!!

[Oreo]

From my research a gas check is not needed here. Lots of people think a check helps prevent leading but it is clearly not necessary to prevent leading because so many people have no leading without checks. What I have read is that in high pressure rifle rounds, just as the boolit exits the muzzle the gas can cut away at the boolit base causing poor accuracy. Having a check on the base prevents this.

So, if your accuracy is good I wouldn't worry with checks.

[Bongo Boy]

Was hoping that by using the GC bullets I could get away from the after market barrels that I use in my other Glocks.

You probably will find as many folks who say shooting lead in stock Glock barrels is a problem, as you'll find shooters who have fired 1000s of rounds of lead through them with no issues at all. I'm in the latter group. But, I'd also like to say that, while the stock Glock barrels are 'known' to be polygonal rifled barrels, I'll be darned if I can see any difference whatsoever between the rifling in a Glock barrel and any conventionally-rifled barrel I've ever looked into. And that's with substantial magnification--I simply see no difference in the profile of the barrels whatsoever--that's in Gen 3 G20 and G29.

Again, folks will swear up and down it's a problem, cite all sorts of 'evidence' and anecdotal experience at the range that they've had or that others they know have had, and cite Glock's recommendations. I'm certainly not saying that, because this has not been my experience, you should ignore it. I'm suggesting you shoot and see for yourself--get that beautiful, shiny Glock bore all bright and clean, take along a cotton mop, and fire a few rounds. I happen to have aftermarket barrels for both the 20 and the 29...and I don't see any evidence of excessive leading in any of the 4 barrels--and no detectable difference between any of them (except the Glock barrels appear to have a far finer bore finish than the aftermarket ones).

I don't know everything, for sure. But what I've seen so far seems mostly shrouded in myth, magic and mystery.

[gloob]

But, I'd also like to say that, while the stock Glock barrels are 'known' to be polygonal rifled barrels, I'll be darned if I can see any difference whatsoever between the rifling in a Glock barrel and any conventionally-rifled barrel I've ever looked into. And that's with substantial magnification--I simply see no difference in the profile of the barrels whatsoever

A standard button cut barrel has a distinct step between land and grooves. In a Glock barrel, the lands gradually slope to a rounded peak.

and I don't see any evidence of excessive leading in any of the 4 barrels--and no detectable difference between any of the

If your bullet fits, you won't see much difference. If anything, Glock barrels shoot cast bullets cleaner, IMO. But if your bullet it too small, the Glock barrels appear to lead up far worse/faster, IME.

[harley45]

I use the MIHEC mold Oreo designed in my 10s and just love it feeds well in the g20 I just sold to buy a g40. Isn't Blue Label pricing great!

[khmer6]

So jelly of everyone getting their g40 with blue label! A 6" on the g20 or g29 doesn't compare to the full slide lol.

[Omnivore]

Recipes, anyone? In order to duplicate your excellent results, we would need;

Mold # (OK, we got a few of those)
Alloy used
Air cooled or quenched, etc., (or actual hardness if measured)
Lube type
Diameter sized
Whether or not a gas check was seated, if it's a GC bullet design
Primer used (brand and number)
Powder type
Charge weight
Seating length
Type and amount of crimp

I left out the case, but all that other stuff, including the case, is part of getting a proper load.

I mean, if you're shooting thousand of these loads with beautiful results, you'll be able to recite all that off the top of your head, right? Just stating the mold # tells only a small part of the story and leaves anyone with an active interest flailing around trying to fill in the critical details.

I took a couple years off of trying to come up with a good cast load for the G20. For one thing, by the time I got enough case flare to prevent shaving bullets upon seating, well, that's impossible because the flared case cannot fit into a seating die without taking the flare back down in the process, and that results in lead shaving.

So I don't know; maybe in addition to the recipe we'd also need to know your equipment and procedures. Maybe you're shaving lead all over the place and the loads still shoot fine. Inquiring minds want to know.

I tried a Lone Wolf barrel, and nothing will feed reliably in it, including jacketed, in either of my G20s, so I'm most interested in recipes for the factory Glock barrels.

and yes; I agree that Glock rifling is certainly NOT "polygonal". We've all see polygonal rifling, and Glock ain't it. The Glock lands, rather than having the usual squared corners, are rounded. I've fired enough of the factory American Eagle ammo to know that a Glock will eat lead just fine in the right loads. Stabilization is the issue. I never was much concerned about barrel leading. Hickok 45 has some more recent vids on the use of factory cast loads in Glocks. The ones that "don't work" are the ones that leave the bullet tumbling through the air.