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Thread: Annealing brass ( I know, I know again)

  1. #1
    Boolit Master



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    Annealing brass ( I know, I know again)

    I've been re-reading the annealing posts and threads, what is the temp I'm looking for military rifle brass 308/3006. The temps start at 600+ and end up in the 1200 range.
    Bill

  2. #2
    Boolit Master
    bullet maker 57's Avatar
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    I think at 1200, you would get the base to hot and ruin the brass. Somewhere around 700 is more in the ballpark. Templiq is your friend.

  3. #3
    Boolit Master



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    Quote Originally Posted by bullet maker 57 View Post
    I think at 1200, you would get the base to hot and ruin the brass. Somewhere around 700 is more in the ballpark. Templiq is your friend.
    Was hoping the 700-800.was good, gotta clean the oven and was hoping to kill 2 stones with 1 bird. Too cold to set up the cast iron pot.

  4. #4
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    I'm hoping that you are wanting to use the brass for swaging and not reloading. You will anneal ALL the brass, not just the neck.

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  5. #5
    Boolit Master



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    Definitely swaging.

  6. #6
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    It's not an annealing thread without someone saying you'll blow yourself up But yea you basically want the entire case glowing so that's up there temp wise.

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    Careful......you might blow yourself up.

    There. Now it's official.

    Annealing in the Lee pot is good. Turn the lights out and you can see better when they start to glow.
    Last edited by ncbearman; 01-17-2017 at 11:05 PM.

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    Boolit Master



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    Yuns guys are caring.

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    get it to 750 or so.
    you don't need glowing specific colors, you just need temperature.

  10. #10
    Boolit Master Pee Wee's Avatar
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    I anneal at 800. We use a Lee 20 lb. Dipper pot that is for annealing only.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by runfiverun View Post
    get it to 750 or so.
    you don't need glowing specific colors, you just need temperature.
    My tempometer has 700 on it, it went past it, based on the graduations it hit at least 800. When I pulled the brass only the first half show e signs of heat. Maybe next time I'll put it closer to.the flame in a shallower pan. Or maybe upside down with the base nearer the flame. The first time was just a bata run. Just distant to work in the cold damp garage. Gonna cook some in the Lee pot.
    Bill

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pee Wee View Post
    I anneal at 800. We use a Lee 20 lb. Dipper pot that is for annealing only.
    Well it looks like the Lee pot wins out. The third potfull today, so far. Now I'm forced to build my tumbler.

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master In Remembrance
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    But yea you basically want the entire case glowing so that's up there temp wise.
    No details for exact temperature from the poster but glowing puts the temperature in the 1000 degree range and will wreck every case!
    Read .... http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
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    John

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    No details for exact temperature from the poster but glowing puts the temperature in the 1000 degree range and will wreck every case!
    Read .... http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
    Actually brass glows before that temp... but.... We're in the swaging forum here and we like to wreck cases

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    Quote Originally Posted by mckenziedrums View Post
    Actually brass glows before that temp... but.... We're in the swaging forum here and we like to wreck cases
    mash em' all!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by John Boy View Post
    No details for exact temperature from the poster but glowing puts the temperature in the 1000 degree range and will wreck every case!
    Read .... http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
    Thats for neck annealing. We need to anneal the whole thing. In my limited experience you can't anneal too much on prepping 40 brass to swage 45 projectiles.

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    yeah when you open them up like that you want dead soft.
    I'd burn the zinc out of them.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master reed1911's Avatar
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    Hmm...next time you go camping....bonfire maybe.

    I generally just use my hotplate turned up as high as it will go and leave them there for about an hour from start to finish which is about 45 minutes of full temp time. They come out dead soft and I can expand or reduce the heads at will. I've never measured the temp but just north of 'med' it will melt pure lead so on high it is rather high.
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  19. #19
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    When annealing necked rifle brass, you ONLY want to anneal the neck, which holds onto the bullet. The neck annealing will usually drift down into the shoulder, which is OK. However, if you soften the entire case, the case is RUINED.

    Google the YouTube video for ANNEALEZE That will show you how to properly do it.


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  20. #20
    Boolit Master 5Shot's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by DukeInFlorida View Post
    When annealing necked rifle brass, you ONLY want to anneal the neck, which holds onto the bullet. The neck annealing will usually drift down into the shoulder, which is OK. However, if you soften the entire case, the case is RUINED.

    Google the YouTube video for ANNEALEZE That will show you how to properly do it.
    They're doing it to totally soften the brass for swaging into bullet jackets.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check