I've been re-reading the annealing posts and threads, what is the temp I'm looking for military rifle brass 308/3006. The temps start at 600+ and end up in the 1200 range.
Bill
I've been re-reading the annealing posts and threads, what is the temp I'm looking for military rifle brass 308/3006. The temps start at 600+ and end up in the 1200 range.
Bill
I think at 1200, you would get the base to hot and ruin the brass. Somewhere around 700 is more in the ballpark. Templiq is your friend.
I'm hoping that you are wanting to use the brass for swaging and not reloading. You will anneal ALL the brass, not just the neck.
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It's not an annealing thread without someone saying you'll blow yourself up But yea you basically want the entire case glowing so that's up there temp wise.
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Careful......you might blow yourself up.
There. Now it's official.
Annealing in the Lee pot is good. Turn the lights out and you can see better when they start to glow.
Last edited by ncbearman; 01-17-2017 at 11:05 PM.
get it to 750 or so.
you don't need glowing specific colors, you just need temperature.
I anneal at 800. We use a Lee 20 lb. Dipper pot that is for annealing only.
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My tempometer has 700 on it, it went past it, based on the graduations it hit at least 800. When I pulled the brass only the first half show e signs of heat. Maybe next time I'll put it closer to.the flame in a shallower pan. Or maybe upside down with the base nearer the flame. The first time was just a bata run. Just distant to work in the cold damp garage. Gonna cook some in the Lee pot.
Bill
No details for exact temperature from the poster but glowing puts the temperature in the 1000 degree range and will wreck every case!But yea you basically want the entire case glowing so that's up there temp wise.
Read .... http://www.6mmbr.com/annealing.html
Regards
John
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yeah when you open them up like that you want dead soft.
I'd burn the zinc out of them.
Hmm...next time you go camping....bonfire maybe.
I generally just use my hotplate turned up as high as it will go and leave them there for about an hour from start to finish which is about 45 minutes of full temp time. They come out dead soft and I can expand or reduce the heads at will. I've never measured the temp but just north of 'med' it will melt pure lead so on high it is rather high.
Ron Reed
Oklahoma City, OK
When annealing necked rifle brass, you ONLY want to anneal the neck, which holds onto the bullet. The neck annealing will usually drift down into the shoulder, which is OK. However, if you soften the entire case, the case is RUINED.
Google the YouTube video for ANNEALEZE That will show you how to properly do it.
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BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |