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I have what you need.
$13.50 shipped to your door.
My SSR just crapped out on me. Very strange.
The PID is sending a 12V signal to the SSR. The indicator light on the SSR is illuminating, but the SSR is just not allowing current to pass through. It has been working flawlessly. Just this past weekend the SSR wouldn't function, but then began functioning. It's like it doesn't want to go and once it starts to work it works fine. It seems to have a hard time getting started.
I've killed a couple but only because of over-current. Way over. I doubt you're doing that. Maybe just replace it?
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
Yeah the eBay seller has a 30 day return policy. I'll send it back to have him replace it and see if this one was just a fluke. I've read that there are a lot of eBay sellers that sell clone copy SSRs and other clone electric components. Supposedly they stop working because they are counterfeit.
If the 2nd one takes a dump I'll probably just order one from Auber. I assume theirs are good quality. It better be for over twice the price + shipping.
I don't think clone or counterfeit apply. There are poorly made parts as well as rejected parts that find their way to secondary markets. Auber and Frozone sort this out for you at a nominal cost and you can be fairly certain the parts were Not found in a dumpster.
No slight to those who recycle but it should say so and most often does not.
Mal
Mal Paso means Bad Pass, just so you know.
NIN, just last week I was on eBay and there was an eBay member there outing a seller for selling knock of SSR's. The buyer went to the extent of opening up the unit and posting pictures of the knock off components that were slapped together inside and posted results of the units failing. I'd be very skeptical of most electronic components on eBay sourced from over seas sellers. I've been taken once on a memory chip for my digital cammera a couple years back. Typically the member won't respond to your request, default on the return payment, PAYPAL will automatically refund your money and the seller will disappear to open another account. $5-$10 US goes along way in a lot of those over seas countries.
I know exactly what you mean. I've seen similar accounts myself. That's the only reason I brought up "counterfeit" to begin with. I have no reason to suspect that I received a knockoff, at least not yet. A lot of the knockoff stuff I saw online, you don't have to look too close to spot the poor quality. My replacement should arrive very soon and hopefully it works for a VERY long time. If that one takes a dump then I'll be quite upset.
A coworker of mine feels that the way I wired my SSR could have caused it to stop working. The switch in the down position bypasses the SSR by supplying power to one of the terminals while at the same time the PID can activate the SSR which has power in the other terminal. He feels as though this could be what caused the SSR to fail. I couldn't say one way or the other.
I need to respectfully disagree. The control input circuit is totally isolated from the power switching circuit by way of an opto-isolator. The control signal lights up an LED whose light turns on a photo-sensitive transistor which in turn turns on the AC power switch, usually back-to-back SCRs. Neither side is dependent on the other.
"The urge to save humanity is almost always a false front for the urge to rule." --H. L. Menchen
I'm not sure if were talking about the same thing or not. Not the 12v (the control side) crossing over to the 110v (circuit side). He, my coworker, was suspicious about having 110v current on both terminals of the circuit side meanwhile the SSR often activating the SSR.
Having current on connections #1 and #2 at the same time is what he was concerned about. Connections #3 and #4 is the control side.
I just received my replacement SSR today! Will hook it up and give it a go ASAP. I don't see how the SSR could be harmed by how I wired it, but I do not claim to have an understanding of how SSRs work exactly.
I used NineInchNails Parts list and wiring instructions and added a In Power and an OUT power led light. Also fused both the in power and out power circuits.
Grounded the case to incoming ground via the terminal board.
Plugged in and works Great!
Thank you to NineInchNails!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
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