The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
Fantastic job.i plan on reworking the trigger on my old Cva... This helped a lot. Currently my trigger has a lot of play and sits far back. I never thought of just recutting the back
That's a lot of work for something that can be fixed by a $12 adjustable tumbler.
Guess it depends on if you want to spend money or not. I have done enough of these conversions over the years, I can do it in under an hour, and not have a mechanical part that can fail. Not to mention you would play hell trying to find an adjustable tumbler for most locks. Better to do it right, rather than half assed.
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
When I first looked at your trigger I missed the obvious change in geometry.
I have one I have not shot in a long time because of the trigger. I'm thinking that first I am just going to move the pivot point back and get some/enough mechanical advantage by the fulcrum principle.
Amendments
The Second there to protect the First!
The solid soft lead bullet is undoubtably the best and most satisfactory expanding bullet that has ever been designed. It invariably mushrooms perfectly, and never breaks up. With the metal base that is essential for velocities of 2000 f.s. and upwards to protect the naked base, these metal-based soft lead bullets are splendid.
John Taylor - "African Rifles and Cartridges"
Forget everything you know about loading jacketed bullets. This is a whole new ball game!
great write up and pictorial. it raises a bunch of more questions for me and other firearms. fantastic. THANKS.
This is a really old thread but in case someone comes to visit - heres another CVA fix -
They made what I call long sear and short sear locks - I have fixed several of the long sear ones - they are just poor design and what happens is the long flimsy toe of the sear bends and gets to snagging up in the half cock notch - the lock malfunctions and if the shooter persists with it breaks the end off the sear. Take the lock apart and put the sear in a vice clean it down and use an oxy welding torch to first bend the sear tip back to its correct position then while its still hot fill the curve from nose of sear back to the boss around the mounting screw hole with brass filler rod - once its cooled out you then fit the reinforced sear until it just has clearance around the tumbler - that will take a little work but once its done that sear should last a good while - I have rescued several of these wrecked long sear locks (dont know why they built them like it - they also made a short sear model that works ok) - my picture is a closeup of the sear and tumbler / bridle of a CVA missouri / hawken - should be able to see the join between brass filler and the original steel.
Joe
Last edited by indian joe; 06-26-2019 at 06:32 PM.
Nice work reducing the trigger pull ! Thanks for sharing .
No turning back , No turning back !
Boaz ---maybe I didnt explain this well - its not about reducing trigger pull!! - this is a repair fix for a stuffed CVA lock - the end of that long sear bends until it interferes with the mechanism and catches in the half cock notch as the lock fires - either fix it before it breaks completely or buy a new replacement lock from L & R (U$180) - if you go back and study Beroen's pictures you can see the sear on that lock is already started to bend upwards - its a cheaper lock for single trigger and has no bridle to hold the parts in alignment - there is a small screw above the sear notch that serves to reduce sear engagement and lighten the trigger pull (some fellers have not figured that out) - for double set trigger you must have a fly in the tumbler. My fix is to repair the bent sear and reinforce it with extra metal so it dont bend again - then the repair is contoured to just clear the tumbler as it rotates - no effect on trigger pull.
Can you post pictures again, they are gone!
Thanks
Nit Wit
My pictures below
Go to Beroen's post no 8 for pics of the pistol
can see how the sear assembly is straight /flat on the bottom after the repair and can see the join line where brass filler was used
In this pic of the pistol lock can see where the sear nose has already started to bend upwards - wont be long before that one breaks or needs my fix doing
Last edited by indian joe; 05-30-2019 at 09:49 AM.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |