new hunting rifle advice

[Ramslammer]

G'Day All
I'm thinking of building a new hunting rifle for cast. It will be a .358 win but I need some advice on what twist would be best for 220 grn boolits? It will only be shooting lead! I currently use 35 rem lever guns for most of my lead shooting(in big guns) and want to go to a bolt action.
Thanks in advance
Juddy

[Maineboy]

Standard twist for a 358 Winchester is 1 in 12". I don't own a 358, but I had built a 35 Whelen with a 1 in 12" twist barrel. It shoots 250 to 280 grain boolits quite well but lighter ones just don't shoot. If I were to do it again, I'd go with a 14 inch twist.

[RU shooter]

I've shot 220 gr fine in a 16 twist 35 rem don't know how it would do with a heavier 250 if you chose to use them . But with the lighter stuff accuracy comes pretty easy with the 16 twist, mine is a bolt action

Tim

[Outpost75]

A 12" twist will stabilize 300-grain .35 bullets subsonic if you want to shoot through dinosaurs using your "can."

Attachment 176775

[Djones]

My 1-14 JES rebore is a tack driver with 180-240 grain boolits.

[jhalcott]

I opted for 1/14 twist in MY whelen. It shoots MOST cast boolits quite accurately. I have a .358JDJ that shoots Jacketed better than cast, but I have never checked the twist in that barrel, Maybe it's time to do that.

[Mike H]

Either 1-14 or 1-16 should be suitable,I have a 1-16 twist in a 303/35 and in a 35 Whelen,200 RCBS shoots well in the 303/35.In the Whelen I shoot 300 grain CBE as well as pistol bullets.the 303/35 shot better than the Whelen,but I thought it was the rifle more than the twist,certainly shot well enough to hunt with,haven't got the loads here,but over 2,000 fps was easy to get with the 300 grain.

[Mk42gunner]

I went with a 1 in 14" twist for my Whelen. It works well for my mostly 200-250 grain projectiles.

I think the 1 in 12" twist that is standard for the .358 is a bit quick for the lighter lead boolits.

Robert

[runfiverun]

I have no idea what my Ruger is but it shoots 250's just fine.
it was a one and done load deal so I never bothered looking or caring what the twist rate is.
the 358 is capable of matching jacketed velocity's pretty easily so you have to be careful about matching up meplat diameter and alloy selection when using it for hunting.

you might wanna take a minute and read Goodsteel's sticky on the 358 and see what he done wrong.

[woody1]

Was it me, I'd PM Waksupi on this board. He did pretty much what you're thinking of doing. I think he shoots heavier than 220 but I'm not sure.

[Texas by God]

My 1-14 JES rebore is a tack driver with 180-240 grain boolits.

Same here- 3 grooves WORK.

[Smoke4320]

I will third the JES 1-14 3 groove 358 Winchester .. Absolute tack driver with 180 to 240 Grain .. never tried anything heavier

Attachment 176818

[Blackwater]

My current .35 is an Ackleyized Whelen with a 1:14" twist Shilen #4 barrel, and I love it. Were I to do it over again, I think I'd likely go with a 1:12" twist so if I wanted to, it'd likely shoot with the 300 gr. bullets. But for cast, I'm pretty sure a 1:14 or 1"16" twist would do just fine. The slower twist often does better with cast because it puts less pressure and stress than the quicker twists do, but really, I think they'd all give you joy. It's just a matter of how fast you really want to drive them. The slower you want to go, the faster the twist needs to be, since stabilization is a combination of twist rate AND velocity.

[white eagle]

I built a 358 win.on a model 70 action
it has a 10 twist match grade barrel from Pac-Nor
shoots all boolits and bullets very accurately most of all it shoots
heavier projectiles really really good
light and compact but packs a punch
I usually shoot 230 gr boolits but have gone as high as 280 gr
good luck aint this fun

[popper]

Played with the Miller calc. a while back. Amazed at how much fps variation you can get and still be 'stable' for a given boolit length/dia ratio. Cut jacketed fps in half and still 'stable'. I know, just an 'assumption' calculation. Too many other variables to consider. Same with reading about different #/type grooves. Unless you are building a custom or happen to pick the 'bad design' factory stuff, do like R5R says.