Never thought of using drill blanks.
I'll have to look for some in the smaller sizes.
I've started using a Lee pistol depriming rod as a punch.
As long as it fits.
The pin is a roller bearing and is very hard.
Never thought of using drill blanks.
I'll have to look for some in the smaller sizes.
I've started using a Lee pistol depriming rod as a punch.
As long as it fits.
The pin is a roller bearing and is very hard.
One of the first things I learned when I started tinkering with guns, is to ALWAYS use increasing levels of force with hammers. Sometimes, you have to increase the level of force you use, or move to the next bigger size hammer, but it's been a good thing to learn. And being an old country boy, I've used whatever nails were handy as "punches" after filing, cutting or otherwise flattening the ends. Even tried heating them red hot and quenching in water to harden them, which produced varied results with varied nails. Now that I've got a set of Starrets, I am VERY respectful of them. If what I regard as a "reasonable" blow won't move a pin with those, I start looking for something more "expendable." Just my country boy mentality, temperament and values coming out, I guess. First rule of gunsmithing is "never be in a hurry - it'll come back to haunt you all too often." An old gunsmith told me that many years ago now, and he did it with a great big smile. I've never forgotten it .... even when I didn't heed it. Sometimes, we know better, but don't do better.
For several years I've had 4 oz., 12 oz. and 24 oz. ball peen hammers. Plus assorted brass/nylon tip hammers. When I've needed more than the 24 oz hammer, I've used a 4 lb drilling hammer but never on a gun. All of these were acquired as need arose and not all at once.
John
W.TN
Somewhat off topic, but also several years ago, I sprung for a BIG machinists vise. That, along with some handy jaw liners that I made, has been a life(time)saver several times.
John
W.TN
”We know they are lying, they know they are lying, they know we know they are lying, we know they know we know they are lying, yet they are still lying.” –Aleksandr Isayevich Solzhenitsyn
My Straight Shooters thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...raight-shooter
The Pewter Pictures and Hallmarks thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...-and-hallmarks
I agree. If I ever need more than the 24 oz hammer for something gun related, I'll do as I have with the other sizes. I will go buy one, possibly a 32 oz. That 4 lb drilling hammer is a beast for anything other than masonry demolition. Just short of the 6 lb one hand sledge that I inherited from my father.
John
W.TN
I'm cheap by nature so I always tend to buy the cheap stuff. This includes drill bits that almost always give up the ghost after about the fourth or fifth usage.
I mention this because I'm also a Pack-Rat. I don't throw out my used chinese made drill bits. I simply remove the shank end and that's what I use as my punches. Over time I've managed to accumulate just about every size that a guy might have need of as a punch.
Although the shanks of these cheap drill bits aren't hardened to the same level as the cutting end of these bits, they are hard enough so that they won't easily bend like alot of the brass punches I've ruined over the years.
I don't think I'm the only guy who does this. I just thought I'd mention it since this thread is slowly drifting toward the home-made-punches direction.
HollowPoint
Ooh, hammer luuuuust!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Get a set of Starrett's and a back up 1/16th right off the bat. I've found once they bend, they bend easier and easier each time until failure.
Being cheap and always seeming to bend small punches, I started years ago to make my own. After many trying many things, ended up using cement nails. (much harder than regular nails) Not the square ones, but the round ones that are sort of splined. The "long" ones are about 2" and work perfectly for me. Chuck it in a drill, cut of the head with a cut off wheel, or just grind it off. Spin it in the drill against a grinding wheel. I finish them off on a ribbon grinder. For almost no cost and a minute you can make any size you want. Real short ones and/or tapered ones for starting. You could also chuck them in a drill chuck, but I have never found that necessary
Also, I have found I only need one hammer for everything, a three pound blacksmith model. It is hard to get lost on the bench and you only need one. My motto is, If it ain't broke, it soon will be!!
Jackpine
I will second the Starrett punches, they seem to be the best I've found. I have a few older ones (I don't need a full set and they aren't cheap) that have held up well. I use cheaper punches for grunt work and try to avoid abusing the Starretts.
The type of steel is important. Too hard and they will be brittle, too soft and they will bend and deform. Starrett seems to have found the balance.
The cheaper punches found in most hardware stores work for about 90% of the jobs and if you bend one you haven't lost much. I can't recall the name on them but they are painted blue.
+1 on using nails
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
All of my pin punches are SnapOn, when they break I get a new one!, I also have ballpeen hammers from 4oz up to 48oz and sledge hammers @ 3# and 4#, the shop has 8#, 12# and 16# hammers, trucks aren't as delicate as guns.
ASE master certified engine machinist
Brake & Alignment specialist, ricer to class 8
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |