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Thread: General Question about "Coatings & Alternatives"

  1. #1
    Boolit Master OnHoPr's Avatar
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    General Question about "Coatings & Alternatives"

    I don't frequent this forum often, but took a peek a few times. I had a few ponderances stroll through my senile mind. I took a look at this up and coming form of PCing. I have done a touch of PPing. Before I even came to this site I was looking into copper plating a bit. Here is the question, what is the maximum you can increase a boolits diameter with whatever type of material that will handle the trip down the barrel? Can you go .040 or .050? I have thought of a few whacky ideas like thinning plastic roof cement or spar varnish with multiple layers, but haven't tried anything yet really. The baseline style of projectile used would be for a few boolits like a 100-200 and wouldn't mind if it took 2 or 3 days to do it. Not really any interest in coating 1000's for a 9mm.
    May you hands be warmed on a frosty day.

  2. #2
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    I love powder coating for different reasons but I think you will have a hard time finding something to fill that large of a gap. I get a couple of thousandths when I spray on pretty heavy. Too much humidity in Florida for me to have any luck with the shake and bake method. No smoke and being able to push a bit faster make it worthwhile for me.

  3. #3
    Boolit Grand Master popper's Avatar
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    I tried spar varnish & ming oil based stuff on 40SW before PC came along - don't bother. Left gue & lead in the barrel.
    Whatever!

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    Doubt you will find any spray/dip/shake coating that will hold up to the stress of firing that you could get that thick
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  5. #5
    Boolit Master OnHoPr's Avatar
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    Let me rephrase, .050 diameter, so .025 to .030 thickness. I haven't seen an actual PC boolit, so I have no conception of its characteristics. Back in the '80s I seen were a few guys thinned plastic roof cement with gas and painted it on their old rusted wood hauler PUs. Then they left it out in the sun for a few days. The stuff got hard as a rock seems like. You couldn't scrape or dent it with your fingernail. I don't know what the actual thickness was though, thicker than latex paint, maybe.


    I guess I should have said it differently. Increasing the boolits diameter .050, so the thickness of .025 to .030 thickness of the coating or radii.
    Last edited by OnHoPr; 09-07-2016 at 08:39 PM.
    May you hands be warmed on a frosty day.

  6. #6
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    I suggest you look at a few more of the threads and stickies. Your dimensions are way off. Not trying to flame you at all. I have never seen where that thickness can be made up other than maybe paper patching but I know so little about that that I may be way off. Good luck to you.
    Last edited by Finster101; 09-07-2016 at 09:01 PM.

  7. #7
    Boolit Man dryflash3's Avatar
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    When I PC using the shake and bake method, it adds .002 to .003 to the bullet diameter.

    A trip through a Lee bullet sizing die ($20) and you get the diameter you want.

  8. #8
    Boolit Bub
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    I just posted about my problems with PC bullets getting too large a diameter-- they will not fit the case and the case will not chamber. The only way what you are asking would be possible is with a "muzzle loader" where you have no casing. All sorts of problems start happening when you go large.. too big to size, jams your sizer,, bulges in the cases, can rip the side down on the case when seating bullets... last but not least- they will never chamber in your gun. I have been way down this road,, and I turned around!! My story is in the .45acp revolver VRS 1911... Jon

  9. #9
    Boolit Master OnHoPr's Avatar
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    Maybe I should elaborate more on the intention. You guys seem to have pistolas on the mind and hardwired brained for PCing, since you read up on coatings though before you actually started getting proficient with it. Have you come across any other hair brained concepts of coating a boolit, expand your mind Quaid/Hauser. I am thinking about shotgun slugs and round balls for up sizing, not easy lubrication coating.
    May you hands be warmed on a frosty day.

  10. #10
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    well a normal PC comes in at .002-3.
    you'd need 10 coats to gain .020

  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    I have to say I don't really see the purpose, but if I were going to try to build out a PC that thickness on anything I would preheat the object to upwards of 200 degrees and then quickly tumble coat. Do a partial cure (just enough temp to get the coating to flow), then repeat as necessary to build out then do a final full cure. At 250 degrees multiple bullets would end up being a sticky ball.

    The only other option I can think of would be to heat the object in the 350-400 degree range and start applying spray coats, which will melt on contact. After cooling I do a full cure (400 degrees for 10 minutes) I use this process to coat large objects like a bench vice, art, tools, etc. The thickness you want may take more than one heating cycle.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master OnHoPr's Avatar
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    Hey guys, an occasional hair brained thought crossed my mind and I seen the title to this forum "Coatings & Alternatives", so I thought I may ask a question encompassing about the title. "You guys seem to have pistolas on the mind and hardwired brained for PCing," I don't think PCing would do the task. What else do you coat boolits with besides PC, paper, and copper?
    May you hands be warmed on a frosty day.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check