And no one makes them for .380.
The 10mm case is only 0.12" longer than 40SW so it probably would cycle but HS off the extractor. The .30 case is probably better but I have none and no machine to modify them with. Plus I'd hate to be walking back from the stand, meet a 200# sow, loaded with snake shot. Rifle would of course be slung over the back. It's a 50 yd walk through nasty stuff to the fence line where he picks me up with the Gater. I am looking for a good small high intensity green flashlight.
Would Styer or Largo brass work (for 380) with a slight neck down for HS?
Last edited by popper; 08-18-2016 at 10:57 AM.
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that 380 shot cartridge is salvation to my wandering mind!! I can and do make shot shells for our handguns but the 380 is the better hot weather gun for me and this answers how! Thanks, now I have more reason to be in shop instead of sitting on porch!!
Look twice, shoot once.
Had an idea the other day and had a few min to see how it would work.
I took a spare Lee powder through die I had and removed the flare portion from the inside and replaced it with an insert I machined to swage the 380 case down like my 45 ACP die does.
Much faster and the crimp looks a bit better.
Really interesting, jmorris. Can you post a pic of spent cases?
I already loaded them back up, looks pretty much the same except the roll is blown back out a bit.
This is very creative and congrats on that, I just think that shot loads in the .380 would not be very effective esp. on rattlers. I think a .44 or .45 LC. would be much more effective, just sayin'.
A 12ga is even better but I don't have one that weighs 9.6 oz.
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One could do that. The crimp tool I built for my 45 ACP shot loads was a sleeve that slid over a 1/2-20 bolt that I ran a ball end mill into on the lathe, to give it the concave shape.
Had I thought about it before hand I could have machined the insert so one side necked the cases down then flip the insert over and that side is the crimp.
COOL! Now do one for 9mm. I had another idea. Instead of using an overshot card, bond the shot into the case using plain food grade gelatin. Once shot, the gelatin should keep the shot together a little longer out of the barrel before dispersing. Sounds crazy but might work.
I still have plenty of 9mm shot loads and generally carry a 45 ACP or LC or the 380 where I would come in contact with snakes that I would want to get rid of.
I've been making my own 45ACP shotshell with good success. I'm experimenting with 380 shot shell and have made crimped dummy brass that cycles in my Kahr CT380, but I have not loaded any up for test fire. I've got too many projects going haha. I used 223 brass cut down and used a Lee 32ACP bullet seating die to make the neck, and a Lee 45ACP bullet seating die to crimp the top.Tested OAL lengths that cycle are .926 - .936. I learned from making 45ACP Shot shells that you got to get the headspacing right if you want reliable rounds that cycle fire every time without fail.
Last edited by Campocaster; 10-24-2016 at 04:45 AM.
Interesting, I'll have to try lathe turning some .223 for 9mm experimentals...never really considered shot loads in a 9mm before now.
Grumpa what are you using to star crimp with?
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Might work but the .223 case is .380 size or smaller OD than 9mm.Interesting, I'll have to try lathe turning some .223 for 9mm
the 380 ACP rim and 9mm rim are not close enough to be interchangeable. The .223 case is a good wildcat case for the .380ACP - but not 9mm
Theres alot of info out there on youtube (ammochannel for example) to create 45ACP shotshells and alot of people can do it, so i'd say thats a good place to start if you shoot 45 as well.Its easier to load the 45 in general and shotshells are no exception. When you got that comfortable, then just like the .380 is just a scaled down version of a 45ACP round - scale down the .380 shotshells using the same techniques as used for 45 shotshell. At least that was my approach. You dont need any tools other than a cheap hand pipe cutter, 32ACP dies, and 45ACP dies. You have to headspace the right length of the cases based on the specific gun barrel you will shoot out of for best functioning. Use old cases and sharpen with a case deburrer and use it to punch for over powder and over shot cards. I use the plastic covers of small notebooks or thick medium card stock of typical greeting cards.The cards need to fit snug to ensure uniform ignition -
380 head spaces of the rim or in this case where the "bottle neck" is. I have not found headspace needs to be different for my shot shell loads in different pistols.You have to headspace the right length of the cases based on the specific gun barrel you will shoot out of for best functioning.
jmorris, I think you are confusing the 32acp with the 380. the 32acp is "semi rimmed".
Not sure what was rattling around in my head, should read "off the mouth", then the "where the bottle neck is" part will make sense.
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