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Thread: Keys to accuracy with Ruger No.1

  1. #1
    Boolit Master

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    Keys to accuracy with Ruger No.1

    Hey guys,
    Due to a plethora of 45/70's in my safe, I have started thinking about rebarelling one to .308
    What kind of accuracy can I realistically expect from this rifle?
    What steps should be taken in assembly, other than the usual stuff that rebarelling entails?
    Thanks
    I'll be a nice to you as you'll let me be, or as mean as you make me be.

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  2. #2
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    Generally to get best and consistent groups you'll want to "float" the forearm. A small washer between the hanger and the forearm is a good start. Next cut out any interference around the barrel. You may want to bed the back end of the wood against the receiver with some epoxy to get a great fit and stability of the forearm.

  3. #3
    Boolit Man
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    I would shoot it before anything else, try various loads and keep your range bag up under the receiver as far as possible to prevent pressure on the forearm. You can always work on it if you find a problem, but dont fix what isn't broken. She might be just fine.

  4. #4
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    I have a free floated #1 in 6mm rem that shoots 3/4" with good handloads and a 18 power scope...

  5. #5
    Boolit Master
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    I have found just the opposite. The Ruger #1 needs fore end pressure to shoot consistently accurate.( No stringing of shots)
    I have owned about ten different #1's over the years.

    Ruger sends the guns from the factory with fore end tip pressure.

    I have tried the Hicks barrel floating device, and the accuracy became worse on my .204 Ruger.

    What kind of accuracy from a #1?

    I my experience I can get MOA with a good #1, day in and day out for three shots at 100 yds.
    Sometimes much better ,but I am not talking one time groups.

    Keep in mind the Ruger #1 is a hunting rifle , not a bench rest gun.
    Last edited by Clay M; 07-09-2016 at 10:12 AM.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by 021 View Post
    I would shoot it before anything else, try various loads and keep your range bag up under the receiver as far as possible to prevent pressure on the forearm. You can always work on it if you find a problem, but dont fix what isn't broken. She might be just fine.
    If you have to keep pressure off the forearm you have a problem, how would you shoot offhand, prone or sitting out in the woods or field without putting pressure on the forearm.

    Tim
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  7. #7
    Boolit Master


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    Quote Originally Posted by DanWalker View Post
    Hey guys,
    Due to a plethora of 45/70's in my safe, I have started thinking about rebarelling one to .308
    What kind of accuracy can I realistically expect from this rifle?
    What steps should be taken in assembly, other than the usual stuff that rebarelling entails?
    Thanks

    Anything with a two-piece stock leaves you figuring out a way to float the barrel. The #1 has a relatively slow locktime compared to better bolt guns.

    Beyond that, the trigger is decent; if you can deal with the known issues, accuracy will largely boil down to what sort of barrel quality you'll use in rebarreling, and what sort of ammo you'll feed it.

    I've seen #1s shoot very, very well. But they're not what I'd use as a platform for a custom gun. YMMV.

  8. #8
    Boolit Master
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    I have one of the new #1's from Lipseys .
    In the new owners manual Ruger states expensively if the gun doesn't shoot..( DO NOT FLOAT THE BARREL)..send it back to Ruger..

  9. #9
    Boolit Master pertnear's Avatar
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    I have a Ruger #3, which is basically the same rifle just not quite as fancy. I bought it years ago & it had been re-barreled to a .270 Win (of all things!). The barrel is a fly-weight, 22" Apex, so at 6.5 lbs all in, that little rifle kicks like a mule. But a very handy deer rifle, especially in a blind. Here is the problem to worry about. The rifle shoots very good groups, but the point-of-impact is very dependent on how you rest the forend. Hard or soft surface makes a bigger than normal difference. If you rest it against a tree limb or in the crook of a window, the bullet will hit in the direction opposite from where the rest is. So free-floating does seem to makes a lot of sense. Also, I don't think I'd use the #1 as the basis for a super-light mountain rig. I recommend a medium weight barrel at 22" (or 24" at the most) & perhaps a varmint style forend.

    I love the #1's & #3's, they are my favorite hunting rifles & I have several.

    JIMHO...

  10. #10
    Boolit Master
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    I have found that the newer #1's (made after 96) shoot great , but they are very load sensitive rifles.
    Most people monkey with the gun before finding the correct load.

    I currently have the .45/70, .405 win., and the .30/06.

    I have done nothing to the guns , they shoot great as they came from the factory...BUT..

    Certain powders and bullets are never going to shoot well in those three rifles.

    A good test for a hunting rifle is to fire one shot at the target every day for seven days and see how your group comes out.
    Last edited by Clay M; 07-09-2016 at 02:37 PM.

  11. #11
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    Owning a slew of No.1 Rugers, the only ones I have had to mess with are 1a & RSI models. Bs. Varmints and Tropicals all do just fine. RSIs are generally stringers and difficult to cure. But who cares ? They are a lightweight handy hunting rifle. Yet to see one that will not put the first 2 in 1".
    If you need more than 2 it's you problem, not the rifle's. The 1a will generally do well if the barrel is 100% free floated except where it meets the receiver and the barrel escutchon. Important that the barrel stays free floated when held. When shooting off any rest, the foreend should be held, not laid on a bag.

    A few of mine:

    Click image for larger version. 

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  12. #12
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    this is my 270 win.


    this is 130gr nosler bt with imr4320( 3 different loads) at 100 yards, this was with a bulls bag rest.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtknowles View Post
    If you have to keep pressure off the forearm you have a problem, how would you shoot offhand, prone or sitting out in the woods or field without putting pressure on the forearm.

    Tim
    Actually, it's not hard with these rifles. The forend is long enough, that the rifle rests closer to the action.

  14. #14
    Boolit Buddy yman's Avatar
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    Seems to me I read an article one time, and they suggested putting a nylon bushing in the forend and just keep tighting it until you hit the sweet spot. I think just keep feeding it different types of ammo/reloads until you find the one it likes it just as good. I also agree with clay m, its not a bench rest gun, so 1 moa would be acceptable for a hunter. Now I am going out on a limb and I am going to catch a lot of flak but seems like I read that Ruger started making the no1 then they out sourced the barrels for awhile and accuracy suffered, then they went back to making their own barrels in-house and accuracy greatly improved. But I also read about a 40lb jackrabbit, so please don't take that as gospel about the barrels.
    Mr humble that 450 and the 300 have some nice wood on them, I am jealous, nice pics.

  15. #15
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnostic View Post
    Actually, it's not hard with these rifles. The forend is long enough, that the rifle rests closer to the action.
    When you shoot offhand or sitting don't you grip the forend in about the middle?

    Tim
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  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by yman View Post
    Seems to me I read an article one time, and they suggested putting a nylon bushing in the forend and just keep tighting it until you hit the sweet spot. I think just keep feeding it different types of ammo/reloads until you find the one it likes it just as good. I also agree with clay m, its not a bench rest gun, so 1 moa would be acceptable for a hunter. Now I am going out on a limb and I am going to catch a lot of flak but seems like I read that Ruger started making the no1 then they out sourced the barrels for awhile and accuracy suffered, then they went back to making their own barrels in-house and accuracy greatly improved. But I also read about a 40lb jackrabbit, so please don't take that as gospel about the barrels.
    Mr humble that 450 and the 300 have some nice wood on them, I am jealous, nice pics.
    Up until 96 Ruger used Wilson barrels on all their rifles.
    They could be hit or miss as far as accuracy.

    Ruger started making their own rifle barrels in 96.
    IMO they are better and more consistent.

  17. #17
    Boolit Master
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    I shoot alot of No.1 rifles as well as boltguns, and I believe that if you do all you can to make the No.1 accurate and also do everything possible to the bolt gun, the boltgun .308 will be more accurate.

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by MT Chambers View Post
    I shoot alot of No.1 rifles as well as boltguns, and I believe that if you do all you can to make the No.1 accurate and also do everything possible to the bolt gun, the boltgun .308 will be more accurate.
    I would agree with that.
    So the logical question would be, what do I want with the #1

    My answer is ,I find they to be very beautiful rifles, and I enjoy hunting with them.
    For 90% of my hunting, I don't need that level of accuracy.
    Last edited by Clay M; 07-09-2016 at 07:46 PM.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dtknowles View Post
    When you shoot offhand or sitting don't you grip the forend in about the middle?

    Tim
    No, and it seemed strange at first to me too. The balance point is closer to the action...

  20. #20
    Boolit Master
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnostic View Post
    No, and it seemed strange at first to me too. The balance point is closer to the action...
    I have a #3 and when I shoot it offhand I grip the forearm in the middle. I sometimes use a hasty sling and that puts my hand even farther forward. Your forward hand should be well forward of the balance point, the balance point should be between your hands. To each his own I guess.

    Tim
    Words are weapons sharper than knives - INXS

    The pen is mightier than the sword - Edward Bulwer-Lytton

    The tongue is mightier than the blade - Euripides

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