I use a carpenters crosscut saw to cut through bones and even scullplate.
I use a carpenters crosscut saw to cut through bones and even scullplate.
I process a lot of deer every year. Now you wanting to cut up cattle bone is a different thing altogether. There big and I wouldn't want to sit there all day with a hand meat saw. Id go with a cordless reciprocation saw. Tell you another tool I have for quicklyquarter deer is a black and decker cordless chain saw. I use it only for meat and use cooking oil for chain lube and store it in my freezer when not in use to keep the flys away. Its substantially faster then a recip saw but your going to get some bone chips youll need to clean off your meat.
I have a Wyoming saw 1 and 3, they come with blades for wood/limbs, and bone blades, I use mine for just about everything from leg bones to cutting the horns from the skull, they work really well!
ive got a rechargeable battery 24v chain saw. I fill the chain oiler with veg oil and only use it for processing. It works good for cutting bone. You do though need to clean it or the flys will find it. What I do if I know I'm going to use it again tomarrow is just toss it in the freezer overnight.
I worked at a deer processer and was a skinner. One of my jobs was to cut off legs and hang em with the meat hook. The absolute fastest was to cut deer sized bones is a cheepo circular saw and a nasty demo blade. Spool up the saw and slam it into bone, barely slows down and goes right thew. Can do 20 (80 legs) in under 5 min. Just be mind full of the cord lol
je suis charlie
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I use a knife to separate legs at the joints and do the whole rest of the deer "boneless"
I think one loses flavor in the final product when they do boneless cuts, but it sure makes wrapping easier and saves a LOT of freezer space.
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I have some Wyoming Saw blades that work really well and last a long time. I didn't buy the whole saw, just the blades. Took an old hacksaw frame and filed a new notch to fit the Wyoming Saw blades, as they are an odd length. Been using that saw for nigh twenty years, it has rendered out a truckload of deer and hogs.
I couldn't agree with this more. Even an 18 tooth per inch hacksaw. I have tried both a hacksaw (when nothing else was available) and a bone saw. The bone saw wins, hands down. Three or four times as fast and the teeth don't clog up.Hacksaws are a poor substitute for bone saw blades. Even rough cut hacksaw blades
Now, if a guy could find the right blades, the hacksaw frame would work okay...
Buy a saw from the butcher supply. I have 2. IIRC they are 19" and 23?". The smaller is used more often. The tension needs to be applied by a cam-action lever not the captive wingnut screw. The cam-lever keeps the blade straight. The meat saw blades are unpainted and last for many years. Buy quality, buy once.
8# meat cleaver, no fuss, no muss. Mine was my great -grandmothers. Ask me and I will tell you the story behind it.
The 18 volt reciprocating saw with a 12 inch blade and 3 or 4 teeth to the inch make quick work of bones on our moose. Course teeth do not load up.
I just use a hatchet. Makes a mess, but it takes one swing per leg. Then use my knife to feel and cut the joint at the hip bone. Then the whole quarter goes into the cooler to be trimmed off the bone at the comfort of the kitchen table.
Kinda surprised only one other person in this thread doesnt use a saw.
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Use a hacksaw frame with a section of meatsaw blade installed. I first got on to this through a hardware store in Alaska. They had meatsaw blades by the foot and a punch to make holes so the blade would work on a hacksaw frame. Of course you don\t need a hole punch. You can drill the holes for the hacksaw frame. Any place that sells meat saws sells replacement blades. Usually you can get two good blades from a meat saw blade for your hacksaw. I have lashed this to a pack frame so it was there when needed.
Jim
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