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Thread: Time for a new powder measure.

  1. #1
    Boolit Master sawinredneck's Avatar
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    Time for a new powder measure.

    I'm sure you guys are sick of this question, but my research has just left me more confused.
    I started loading around '95 because ammo for my 10mm was too expensive, so I was pretty limited. Now I'm loading for 10mm, 44 and 308. I'm wanting to add 38/357, 9mm and .243 to the line up as well in the near future. I started with a Lee PPM and don't have much bad to say about it, other than it's starting to leak reloader #7 pretty bad now and it's not a fan of Varget!
    So the hunt began, money is tight but I'm not afraid to spend it once and have something I can pass on to my son.
    I hear some people that love the Hornandy, and others just hate it.
    The Lyman, I don't know, just looks like a pain to get it adjusted?
    The RCBS version look good, but not much more money and I can get a Redding #3 that most everyone seems to like and it seems with the universal insert it should cover about anything I'm going to load.
    The Harell, it's nice, but I just don't think I can, or need to justify it.
    I'm on a single stage press and normally only to batches of 20-50 of any one caliber at a time, but the .357 and 9mm will probably be in larger numbers of probably 100 rds a time.
    I'm not badmouthing the PPM, it's been great to me, I'd just like something more durable. So thoughts?

  2. #2
    Boolit Master dudel's Avatar
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    I've been real pleased with my Dillon measure. Used it on my RockChucker for many years before I got my 550. It's the older style with the dual return springs vs the fail-safe rod). You can still get the springs from Dillon at no charge. Like you, I had a Lee PPM before the Dillon. My PPM started to leak early on. You will need powder funnels with the Dillon; but I found it combined two steps on my single stage. Before the Dillon I would run all cases through the expander, then use the PPM to dump powder in each case (my Lee charging die does not flare the case) With the Dillon, I could flare and dump in one step, so for me it was a time saver (and powder funnels are inexpensive).

  3. #3
    Boolit Master Ola's Avatar
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    I have 3 (4) different ones. RCBS, Redding, CH4d (and Dillon).


    The green machines are unreliable compared to CH4d. With Varget (or VV N140 which is similar powder) the Ch4D is the best by far.

    https://www.ch4d.com/products/equipm...wder-tools/502

  4. #4
    Boolit Master
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    My Lyman 55 has been doing a sterling job since 82 .I, ve loaded thousands of rounds with it still works great.9mm,357mag,223,308.

  5. #5
    In Remembrance Skunk1's Avatar
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    Passing it on to your son, would need a no BS lifetime+ warranty. RCBS and Dillon both have that. I have both but don't use Varget. I have no problems with either and I can pass them on to my daughter and son. Don't be afraid of the old measures though. I also have 2 old Bair's and a pacific. All came with a micrometer stem for better accuracy, but have no warranties.

  6. #6
    Boolit Buddy

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    redding hard to beat, although using an RCBS uniflow now with micrometer now, no complaints...fwiw...

  7. #7
    Boolit Master sawinredneck's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ola View Post
    I have 3 (4) different ones. RCBS, Redding, CH4d (and Dillon).


    The green machines are unreliable compared to CH4d. With Varget (or VV N140 which is similar powder) the Ch4D is the best by far.

    https://www.ch4d.com/products/equipm...wder-tools/502
    I'd heard of the CH's but didn't know they still made them, I'll keep them in mind.
    I'd also forgotten about the Dillon being so popular.
    Thanks for the information so far.

  8. #8
    Boolit Grand Master

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    I have 2 Harrels ( one shutzen size and standard size), 2 belding and Mulls ( used mainly with black powder). A redding BR30, a RCBS uniflow ( was extenively rebuilt by me to try and improve it) An early RCBS Charge master, several dillon measures and an old herters currently. I have also used Lymann 55, AMT auto scales, lee auto disc, and a cabellas model very similar to the RCBS. The Harrels get used for rifle rounds mostly 308 243 218bee 22 hornet and some others which one depends on size of cartridge. They are very accurate very nice a high quality unit that will last several lifetimes of use. I loaded 308 and 223 for High power matches and practice for 3 of us. It is repeatable xx number of clicks open with XXXX powder is xx grains of XXXX powder everytime on mine I like the screw on option for the powder bottles andThe only drawback is slight with the c-clamp style mounting, you need a shelf or special mount for it. The Belding and Mulls are older measures accurate and simple to use. Hoppers are on the smaller size for rifle rounds. They are pretty much all metal construction. There are 2 drawbacks to the Belding and Mull measures 1) is the c-clamp mounting and 2) is the 2 hand operation of them. Theredding Br 30 was used for years with the michrometer thimble it does repeat close to what the setting is was, a fair sized hopper. has a baffle. 7/8 14 thread mount allows it to be set up in standard mounts presses. A nice unit that does what its supposed to. The RCBS uniflow is the same technology as the redding with the standard adjustment its not as repeatable as the Harrels or redding is but it does work well. I ground both sides of the housing square and parrallel jig ground the bore, Made a new hardened steel drum with side plates. Drum has .0005 clearence and .001 side play now. The measuring chamber was cut the ground smooth round and true. measuring stems end is concave sphere on 3/8 32 thread for finer adjustment. End of rod is squared so I can measure rods length with calipers depth rod. Gets me close but normally takes a little fine adjustment. The herters is an old measure with a knob on the side that scrolls open the powder chamber fancy machining but .... The auto measures are accurate and set up easily but seem slow for medium to large rifle charges, I dropped 5 grns shy in the charge master and then hit the button. This allowed the high speed to to start and run up quick then slow speed tube to finish. I use the Harrels the most and truly like them and recomend them if you can afford it. The redding is pretty good and does a good job. The Harrels, Redding, Lymann 55. rcbs uniflow, All work and are all good measures. Depending on what you want to spend and what powders your using ( Ball, Flakes, sticks ) charge weight cases and how you want to mount it will all affect you decission on the measure purchase. A HArrels for rifle and Redding or RCBS for pistol sized rounds would be ideal set up.

  9. #9
    Boolit Master


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    Hi Sawinredneck,

    Welcome to the forum. The Lyman is actually easy to adjust and a nice powder measure. The RCBS UniFlow is my least favorite of the powder measures I own. It gives the broadest variation in throws of any of them with stick powders but is OK with fine ball powders, but then that's the easiest type to meter. The Dillons are amazingly good over a broad range of powders from tiny ball powders to big flake powders. The best I own is an out of production Saeco. It will throw charges of H4895 in the 40 grain range +/- 0.1 grains. Someone should make a measure as good today at a price competitive with the UniFlow.

    David
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  10. #10
    Boolit Master



    Kevin Rohrer's Avatar
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    Consider a Hollywood. It's the one on the left. You can get them on Ebay pretty regularly.

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  11. #11
    Boolit Master
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    The Lyman, I don't know, just looks like a pain to get it adjusted?
    A pain? Not in the least. I like the Lyman 55 so much I have 6 of 'em.

  12. #12
    Boolit Master sawinredneck's Avatar
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    Thanks for the welcome, David2011.
    I've seen the Hollywood's on Ebay as well, I've also seen some older Reddings go for decent prices lately, but I'm leary of buying a used one, then having to put all the effort into getting a worn out measure to work for me.
    Problem for me is my powders are going to be all over the place, I like Unique for the 10mm and 44mag, then use Reloader #7 for my hot 10mm loads, Varget seemed to be the most friendly for starting on the .308 loads.
    But I'm planning to buy molds and start casting my own lead, so I'm sure I'll have to experiment getting my lr-308 happy, and Unique is all but impossible to find, so that means a new powder for the handguns to learn. This hoarding is getting crazy stupid!
    I've spent many a year in machine shops and have one two blocks from the house that I am allowed to use the equipment, but my back is twelve kinds of screwed up so I'm only good in short bursts and I don't want to set up something and not be able to finish it that day. I might not be physically able to get back the next day, they need the machine, so on. But believe me, the thought of machining my own has certainly crossed my mind more than once!

  13. #13
    Boolit Grand Master

    Wayne Smith's Avatar
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    From what you just said I assume you are not into volume loading and are no longer in a hurry. I would suggest a Belding and Mull and make your own measures out of 45-70/45-90 cases making a screw block inside. That's what I use. This way you can make a measure for each of your loads.
    Wayne the Shrink

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  14. #14
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    I've been using 2 RCBS Uniflows for the last 38 yrs. They serve me well. I do admit I stopped using Unique, as it did a poor job. You're right to do your homework, as a good measure is a lifetime tool.

  15. #15
    Boolit Man Grasslander's Avatar
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    I have to agree with what Wayne suggested. I also use a variety of different powders, and the Belding and Mull will handle Varget better than any other measure I have used.

    If you go with the B&M, be sure to get the micrometer measuring tube. It really helps in getting your charges adjusted more efficiently.

    As mentioned, the hopper doesn't hold as much powder as most other measures. I just use a funnel placed in the top to hold more propellant.
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  16. #16
    Boolit Buddy daboone's Avatar
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    I have collected 9 different PMs. The Lee PPM, Auto disk, Classic PM, and their Auto Drum, A Harrell Schuetzen, Lyman 55, B&M, JDS Quick Measure and a Dillon. I also have a Lymans Gen 6.

    I have found every one of the mechanical measures listed works very dependably and has repeatability (+/-.01) with one or two types of powders but gets funky with another. By types of powders I mean ball, flake and stick/extruded. The only measure that works with each type of powder is the Gen 6 which isn't a mechanical measure but it also only accurate to +/-.01.

    Some like the Harrells and the Lee Classic PM have very precise adjustments. The others require some fiddling to dial them in. As said some work better with a ball or flake or stick but get inconsistent with at least one of them, usually the stick/extruded type powders but very fine ball powders can leak from a couple of them. that leak doesn't effect the repeatability but is just messy. The problem with the Gen 6 is it's slower than the mechanicals. However it is nice to have an electronic measure to do quick check of measurements.

    I have enjoyed collecting and playing with my PMs. I based my opinions listed here using a RCBS 505 and my dad's old oil dampened Redding scales and a set of scale weight and many hours sitting at my bench learning how they work.
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  17. #17
    Boolit Mold
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    Been using a RCBS uniflow for years, but just recently purchased a Little Dandy with adjustable rotor for loading 45acp.
    The Little Dandy does a great job with WST.

  18. #18
    Boolit Master sawinredneck's Avatar
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    Yeah, I was going to get a little dandy years ago when I started, but buy the time I bought all the rotors the price was off the charts, comparatively. It also wont get anywhere close to doing .308 loads.
    Researching the CH measure, I just can't seem to find much info on it. Very few reviews, granted the ones that are out there are rave reviews, but just not much out there.
    On the Redding, is it worth the $25ish to step up to the #3BR over the #3? Reasoning why?
    Is the Horandy bench rest any, at all, better than the regular LNL PM?
    Anyone try the Franklin PM, seems to get rave reviews, but I wonder about the longevity of use?
    Sorry for being so picky, I just want to do it one more time, and hope to do it right.
    When I bought my second press, my first was a Lee 1000 progressive that I was too scared to set up, I spent a lot of time reading and figuring out what to buy. I ended up spending the extra money on a Redding Boss, no big Boss at that time, as I wanted it to last and be able to anything I could see in my future. (I don't see .50cal and if it happens, well that's just a whole other press IMO!) I also bought the Redding #2 scale based on it's reputation.
    I just bought the Lyman universal case trimmer based on research, and am happy about it.
    But these dang PM's, man, they are all over the place! You either love your's or hate someone else's, just doesn't seem to be a happy medium!
    Just trying to explain why I'm being so diligent about this and I appreciate everyone's patience with me on this.

  19. #19
    Boolit Master sawinredneck's Avatar
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    Well, funny how things work out, I guess? Can I post links to closed Ebay sales? Seems I won an old Redding #3 master powder scale on Evilbay for $30 shipped! No powder hopper, but I can get that from Midway reasonably, as well as the screws for it.
    For $30, I figure it's worth trying at least?

  20. #20
    May Liberty Increase!
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    My opinions on the powder measures I own or have owned:

    LEE Perfect - Whatever, it's far from perfection. It worked, but was no joy to use.

    Lyman 55 - It can be a little tricky to get the gross adjustment correct, but dialing in the medium and fine is pretty simple. You're going to crunch powder if you use extruded powders, but if you avoid using the fine adjustment, it's better. I just set mine to drop a little heavy and then pick the extra out with my fingers, dropping grain by grain until it gets where I want it. I find that method faster than using a trickler.

    Hornady drum measure - It works fine for ball and flake powders. It isn't consistent enough for my satisfaction with extruded powders. I gave up on it with extruded powders and use the measure exclusively on the LNL AP press.

    Hornady pistol measure - This is an older slide/bushing model that is no longer made. I don't use it much, but for pistol rounds that you're ok with being close to your desired weight, it works fine and is quick. Never tried extruded powders in it, but wouldn't expect it to work well with that.

    Harrell's Schuetzen measure - My favorite measure to use, but it's pistol only and I rarely load pistol off the progressive anymore. Again, ball and flake are all I've ever run through it. It doesn't take but one time using it to understand why it costs so much.

    Hornady LNL Auto-Charge - It works ok. It's been fairly consistent, once I found the instructions to adjust some other parameters besides weight. The instructions are on the net, but weren't included with the unit. It's slow, though. The only benefit is that I can be doing something else while it's dispensing, like seating a bullet and crimping on my turret press. If I am batch loading in the traditional manner, I just use the 55 as it's faster.

    JDS Quick Measure - It was supposed to be the answer to my problems with extruded powders. It's a NICE measure, but I've yet to get the consistency from it that was claimed with extruded powders, and I've tried many different ones to see if it was just the longer kernels. It stays in a case, most of the time. Others have assured me that I must be doing something wrong, but I've come to the conclusion that we just have different expectations.

    After all that, I ended up going to ball powder (CFE-223) for 223 and 308 loads so that I can run them on the progressive without worry. Anything else rifle is a lower volume and is done on the turret in a semi-batch method, mostly using the Auto-Charge.
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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check