overall bullet suggestion.... 45acp, 9mm, .223, .308

[hershey]

as i have been researching reloading, specifically in regards to cast boolits, i kinda see a point where the limits of a cast boolit is exceded.

in 45 acp. cast seems fine, low pressures, no gas check needed. basically no real safety problems or other issues.

in 9mm i still think cast is alright, pressures/velocities are on the rise, no gas check needed.... further comments welcome.

.223 velocity/pressures increasing, gas check a benefit, is there a point and time where buying a jacketed bullet makes sense over trying to cast? also is a gas check being needed directly proportional to the hardness of the cast boolit? comments welcome.

.308, 30-06, 7mm, 300rum, etc. comments on these are welcome, basically when does it get beyond the limits of cast on this stuff.

i am obviously new to this whole reloading thing, and just trying to sort out what is stupid (getting someone hurt) and what is practical as well, but also want to learn what i can about everything as too.

the i can do it myself factor is a big part of my motivation for casting.....i basically listed the calibers i intend to reload, not necessarly cast for.....

[Echo]

For the .45, get a nice 4- or 6-cavity mold for PB 200 gr boolits, and cast a shoot like there is no tomorrow. NO BB Boolits!

For the 9, same same for 105-125 gr boolits. PB, NO BB!

(Bevel Base boolits simply are not as accurate as plain base. They may be easier to run through a Dillon or Star reloader, but they AREN'T AS ACCURATE as plain base.)

I have no experience with .223 boolits, so will pass.

For the rifle boolits - there are folks on this site that have MUCH more experience than I. But from what I read here, boolit hardness can be achieved by heat-treating up to BHN of ~35. That, and GC's, and best lube, seems to be the ticket for max velocity. Accuracy may be something else. I defer to the experts on this matter.

[MT Gianni]

To me it comes down to the many threads on "Why Cast". Cost is the main motivator. If we all had unlimited funds most would shoot jacketed if available and assuming equal results. 308/30-06/35's all shoot cast well but at a different velocity and for a different purpose. Pistol bullets can meet or exceed jacketed in many or most cases. Rifle boolits can fit most of my shooting needs for less $ and the satisfaction of knowing that I made it, it works, and works well. Gianni

[mike in co]

For the .45, get a nice 4- or 6-cavity mold for PB 200 gr boolits, and cast a shoot like there is no tomorrow. NO BB Boolits!

For the 9, same same for 105-125 gr boolits. PB, NO BB!

(Bevel Base boolits simply are not as accurate as plain base. They may be easier to run through a Dillon or Star reloader, but they AREN'T AS ACCURATE as plain base.)

I have no experience with .223 boolits, so will pass.

For the rifle boolits - there are folks on this site that have MUCH more experience than I. But from what I read here, boolit hardness can be achieved by heat-treating up to BHN of ~35. That, and GC's, and best lube, seems to be the ticket for max velocity. Accuracy may be something else. I defer to the experts on this matter.

i'd do a nice round nose 230 in 45, and atleast 125, search for a 135...look into sizing down a 38/357 rn bollit.

mike in co

[runfiverun]

hershey you really don't get beyond the limits of cast.
you gotta find the combination that'll get you there.
the factors for rifle velocities with cast are many bbl twist rate, the composition of your boolit,
the design of your boolit,and your lube,what size you made it.
water-drop, heat treat, water-drop and then heat treat. heat treat and de-temper.
mix of lead and all of the above.
sometimes you just wanna keep it simple and shoot 1" groups at 100 yds at 1900 fps.

some advice;..... good bearing surface ,and large lube areas.....will get you pretty far.

[Boomer Mikey]

Cast bullets are excellent in all the handgun calibers and worthy of the effort as cast in many cases will work better than Jword bullets. IMO in rifle calibers 30 caliber and up cast is worth the effort if you're satisfied with loads at top velocity of 2000 - 2500 fps or less. Higher velocity is possible but in many cases not worth the effort unless you enjoy the challenge. Many enjoy the challenge of working with cast in the smaller caliber rifles but IMO Jword bullets are a bargain for these but the 22 Hornet can work fine with cast.

Lately, I've been buying cast boolits at $40 per box of 500 rather than casting them... for my autos and short range work (50 yards or less). I've also been working on loads using Rainier's plated, swaged bullets in my 9mm, 38, and 357's too. Rainier LeadSafe Bullets 38 Caliber (357 Diameter) 125 Grain Plated Hollow Point Box of 500 cost $50.99, they're working great ... to me it's worth the cost and I get to go shooting more often.

Anytime I can buy bullets that work well for $12.00/100 or less I figure I can't afford to make them myself.

Boomer

[Bret4207]

If you're the "BLASTING AMMO BLOWOUT!!!!" kinda guy, then cast is all new and maybe too much trouble for you. If you want to learn about your guns, if you enjoy working with your hands, if you delight in find that last little trick that'll shrink your group .25", if you are stubborn enough to keep playing till you get what you want- then casting is great. If you want easy, fast, loud, muzzle flaming loads then cast isn't it.

The rifle loads commonly work great till 15-1800 fps. After that you need to start really paying attn to 2-2200 fps. Above 2200 fps or so you're into masters degree territory. I haven't decided if it's speed, pressure, twist or moon phase that makes it tricky, but there you have it.

[runfiverun]

" BLASTING AMMO BLOWOUT'
that run a shiver down my spine, all three times i read it.

[jameslovesjammie]

BLASTING AMMO BLOWOUT!!!!

There are WAYYYYYY too many people like this at our range.

[docone31]

I have found, the Lee C312/185 mold works great for .30 cal.
I size mine to .309 after casting in wheel weight, and then water dropping.
It is a gas check mold.
I use the lowest 4895 load that comes on the paper with the dies. I also size to .308 without gas check, then paper patch and size to .311.
Altogether, not to bad.
I use the 120gn truncated point for my 9mm, and the Lee 200gn flat nose for my 1911.
Both sweet. I water drop wheel weight for both. Again, minimum load with Blue Dot for both.

[pwcooley]

I stumbled onto this article a while back. If any of you guys have the time to read it I´d appreciate any comments. http://www.jesseshunting.com/article...egory16/9.html