Huh. I got a complete one of those in a box of junk I bought at an auction recently. Had I known someone would be needing a part off of it, I wouldn't have thrown it away...
Huh. I got a complete one of those in a box of junk I bought at an auction recently. Had I known someone would be needing a part off of it, I wouldn't have thrown it away...
Todd, if all else fails, you can send the whole thing to me, and I will make one from scratch!
What about this entire lock:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201421864935...%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
The cup face on my original hammer is bit worn, but it still made the rifle go boom. If you want to talk trade, private message me to see if we can work something out. I can send you a picture of the worn area. Then I would have to make sure that I can get the hammer off my lock. Another alternative is a good quality percussion lock that may cost around $100, but you would have to do some fitting for the new shape of your new lock plate. Or hire it out. The costs would start to really add up.
Last edited by RhodeHunter; 03-11-2016 at 10:56 AM.
Got a trade in progress with Rhodehunter. Thanks guys for all the input!
For by grace are you saved through faith, and that not of yourselves, it is the gift of God. Not of works, lest any man should boast. Eph. 2:8,9
Hammer throw is the critical measurement, and I would have been surprised if it had really been 1in. That would be a rather tiny pistol, with a trigger guard for tiny fingers.
The Spanish arms trade is complex, and my guess is that Jukar was just a middleman who bought from a lot of small firms, and probably changed from one to another. There is no guarantee that a spare from one Jukar pistol would do for another, from the point of view of throw or size of the tumbler square.
You can find plenty of hammers on www.trackofthewolf.com . Don't be put off by the absence of a hammers section in "Gun parts". They are under "Locks: percussion", where parts with hammer throw specified can be found for most of them, by clicking on the item number for the lock. You might have to work on the tumbler square hole with a square file, or on the tumbler square, for which a diamond hone is better. But they don't look smaller than yours.
Then there is https://www.peterdyson.co.uk/ , which is in the UK but serves overseas orders well. Many years ago I found someone in America a Calisher and Terry carbine hammer from them. It is a confusing website, as you get to the hammers through "Castings", and then you get to each page by clicking on a link on the last. They have never been out of stock for me on anything shown. But you do have to drill and file the tumbler square hole.
I think the odds are that the screwhole in the tumbler square is a modern metric thread Like National or the British system there are coarse and fine for each size, the coarse giving the optimum strength, but the fine a little more resistance to vibrating loose. So the fine would be marginally better for the makers to have used... Well, now we have brought logic to the problem.
Most hammers are soft, or at most case-hardened, in mild steel. You can adjust an ogee-curved hammer's throw quite a bit if it is soft, or a little if it is case-hardened. Reducing the throw is self-explanatory, but I think you could increase it a little when you have a tumbler square hole. Just wind as many turns of Kevlar cord as you can in two skeins, as tight as you can make them. Both go around immobile objects, and one through the hole and the other under the hammer's chin. Stick a metal rod through one skein and twist it shorter and tighter.
Here, strictly speaking, is how hammer throw should be measured, at right angles from a straight line running forward from the centre of the striking surface. But axis of rotation to the top of the nipple should be good enough.
Based on this, he needs 1.5 inches of hammer throw for that pistol.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |