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Thread: .223 on a Dillon 550

  1. #1
    Boolit Master


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    .223 on a Dillon 550

    I am thinking about setting up my small primer feed 550 for .223. (for the dread Jwords)

    Is there a better set or combination of dies to use than the Dillon factory?

    I can' fault dillon's dies, just curious.

  2. #2
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    W.R.Buchanan's Avatar
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    Just use a Lee FCD for the crimp and you'll be fine. It is nearly impossible to get consistent roll crimps unless you are willing to trim every case to the same length.

    Since .223's are many times a one way trip and you don't reload them again I just use the Lee die which is not so finicky . This results in all rounds running thru the machine without extra problems, and I don[t have to trim once fired cases that I'm only going to load once and never see again.

    Also use a ball powder like W748/BLC-2 so you get consistent powder drops from your measure.

    Also use bullets with a Cannelure so that the crimp has a good place to anchor itself.

    Good Luck

    Randy
    "It's not how well you do what you know how to do,,,It's how well you do what you DON'T know how to do!"
    www.buchananprecisionmachine.com

  3. #3
    Boolit Master gnostic's Avatar
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    I've had problems with my 550b set-up for 223. I don't plunk test every round and have locked my AR up a few times, due to an occasional round being 2k too large. These same rounds go through my Mini 14 all day without a hitch.

    So I bought RCBS small base dies and they take the case base, down 7k to appear like new.

    And, it appears to shrink the primer pocket as well. To where I can't seat a primer in it, without reaming, using the RCBS Primer Pocket Uniforming Tool .
    I called RCBS and they said 'that can't happen.' I have and use the Dillon Primer Pocket Swage, but it won't solve this problem.

    I'm wondering, could depriming before sizing with SB. dies be the problem? Or, I've noticed a small amount of play, between the tool head and the shell holder of my 550b. I'll try turning down the standard sizing die to remove this play.

  4. #4
    Boolit Buddy dave 45-90's Avatar
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    Autos need a small base die. I only use my Dillon for handgun. Tried the Dillon on 223 and went back to conventional
    I just neck size on everything except for semi auto rifle. Each gun have their own ammo and I don't mix it up
    NRA Endowment

  5. #5
    Boolit Master Rick459's Avatar
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    I load for three ARs i first full length size all cases using my forester co-ax press using a forester FL sizing die. next flash holes de-burred, primer pockets uniformed and cases trimmed. i use a forester neck sizing die in station one in(no lube needed) my 550 and a forester bench rest seating die in station three. i d not crimp the cases. no problems feeding in any of my ARs and no bullet set back. the loaded ammo is very accurate in all my ARs. i have small base sizers but never had to use them yet. i usually chuck the cases after 10 reloadings weather they are bad or not. some auto's need small base sizers most don't. i also load for the M1a and Garrand. never needed the small base sizers for either though i do have them. HTH
    Rick

  6. #6
    Boolit Grand Master jmorris's Avatar
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    I use the Dillon carbide size die but also have used the regular Dillon size die with good results. IMO they are hands down the best die to have for rifle rounds if you ever happen to stick a case. They are almost effortless to remove a stuck case from, #2 would be the Lee die. If you avoid Oneshot you are more likely to avoid a stuck case in the first place though.

    Never owned a "small base" die and most of my .223 firearms are auto loaders.

  7. #7
    Boolit Master
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    My key to keeping my frustration low is to do the brass prep separately... It's not a unique solution: many here do that. I do it for all my rifle brass... In my case, I use an RCBS Summit press, with an RCBS .223 X-die. Check your die adjustment with a chamber checker to avoid stuck cases in your rifle. Yeah, they're not cheap (~$30 new), but they buy a lot of peace of mind. I haven't always done that, but since I started using the chamber checker for die adjustment, I've had 'zero' failures due to brass sizing.

    Then clean the brass, do any other necessary prep work, and load 'em on the 550...

  8. #8
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    My 2 cents:

    Everything Randy said is absolutely correct. Especially the parts about FCD, powder choices and the cannelure. Win 748 not only meters well but has exhibited excellent accuracy for me.

    I have had no problems using standard RCBS dies to load .223 for semi-autos. I've loaded a fir amount of .223 on a Rock Chucker, a 550 and a 650. Dies were the least of my issues. If you're buying dies, by all means go with Dillon. They're first class.

    Some primers feed better than others even with well prepared primer pockets. I've found CCIs (in the dark blue-black package) to feed smoothly in Dillons.

    No matter how I've done it, reloading .223 is a PITA, particularly with range pickup and Milsurp. I've tried it on the 550 and 650 and it's a pain either way, even with a case feeder and Rapid Trimmer.

    Since you didn't say and I'm offering advice you didn't request, I'm assuming AR-15 or another autoloader here. Bolt guns are easier to load for. Be sure you're getting enough shoulder setback on the Dillon. You may have to put a little pressure on the shellplate with the sizing die to achieve the required setback. Load a few (like 40 or so) and try them for 100% perfect feeding and extraction before loading hundreds. Make sure the upper (remove it from the lower) will go into battery easily with your reloads before making too many. Some AR chambers are much more generous than others so make sure YOUR loads run in YOUR gun(s).

    David
    Sometimes life taps you on the shoulder and reminds you it's a one way street. Jim Morris

  9. #9
    Boolit Bub
    flyin brian's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmorris View Post
    I use the Dillon carbide size die but also have used the regular Dillon size die with good results. IMO they are hands down the best die to have for rifle rounds if you ever happen to stick a case. They are almost effortless to remove a stuck case from, #2 would be the Lee die. If you avoid Oneshot you are more likely to avoid a stuck case in the first place though.

    Never owned a "small base" die and most of my .223 firearms are auto loaders.
    You may not be aware that your Dillon dies are small base dies, as all of them are.

    There used to be an FAQ section on the Dillon site, I see they are rolling out a new site but here is what was posted by Dillon tech support in the FAQ in 2008:

    "All Dillon rifle dies are small-based, with a carbide expander ball. We do sell the steel 223 size die separately, #12778. This die is not available online, order by phone. It does have a lube bleed-hole in the shoulder."

    Google cache link:
    https://webcache.googleusercontent.com/search?q=cache:al1ZzCQXCJcJ:https://www.dillonprecision.com/Dill...&ct=clnk&gl=us



  10. #10
    Boolit Buddy tstowater's Avatar
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    I learned something about the Dillon dies being small base. Generally we load for bolt guns in 223 on a 550 with Dillon carbide dies. No problem in bolt guns or the limited amount of semi auto activity. Prepping several thousand for semi auto now so the advice here is well received.

  11. #11
    Boolit Master


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    I picked up a 550 originally for this purpose but due to anneal outlook have never loaded with it. A friend loads everything from blasting to precision ammo (yes, 5.56 to 1K m). He pre-sizes with a Lee collet die and hand seats his primers the runs them through the 550 to drop powder and bullet. The blasting ammo is the only thing that gets a crimp. He say with hand seating primers he has more control on the seating and not having to seat and shake the Dillon increases the consistancy of powder drops from the dillon powder measure.

    A side note, he highly recommends some research on loads focusing on ball powder for blasting/training ammo. For the precision ammo he predominately loads 8208 and H322 which is a shorter grain stick propellant.

  12. #12
    Boolit Buddy
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    I just load my .223 on a 550 and lee dies. Yes you have to adjust your sizing die down far enough to make the cases fit in your rifle. No big deal. I seat my primers on the dillon as I load, drop IMR 8208 with the Dillon measure and seat Hornady 55 gr sp w/ canalure. Shoots good enough for me and is almost trouble free.
    Oh by the way I use the Dillon spray case lube. Fast and easy, maybe wipe off your loaded rounds and keep dirt off them.Shoot, have fun, and do it again.
    All the best.

  13. #13
    Boolit Master


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    Many thanks for the generous replies. I have a lot to digest.

    Thanks

  14. #14
    Boolit Bub
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    Quote Originally Posted by gnostic View Post
    And, it appears to shrink the primer pocket as well. To where I can't seat a primer in it, without reaming, using the RCBS Primer Pocket Uniforming Tool .
    I called RCBS and they said 'that can't happen.' I have and use the Dillon Primer Pocket Swage, but it won't solve this problem.
    Unless the die is swaging the solid case head (anything is possible of course, but I just can't see that happening with regular rifle dies) it can't tighten up the primer pocket, and even if it did, I don't know if the primer pocket would be tightened up, but it might be deformed if the head was swaged.

    Some makes of brass have very little rounding of the primer pocket and seem "tight" because the primer won't go in easily, but simply reaming the primer pocket (as with crimped primer pockets) easily solves that.

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check