It actually wobbles some. This is due to it only being 4' long. If it was 8' long it would be rock solid. I'm going to flip the side supports around. This way the front posts are tied in lower. This should help the wobble a good bit. I still have to load the lower shelf up w/ ammo cans full of bullets. This should be a good counterweight to the motion of the press.
I don't want it moving at all as it will have a 550B mounted on it, primarily. I ordered a Micro Ultramount w/ quick change plate. This way I can swap out a LCT, LCC and JR3 quickly. Hopefully I can get the 550B mounted tomorrow as work fell through for this week.
Due to the nature of the loads that are put on a table during reloading, it needs to be either extremely heavy or attached to the wall to keep it from moving. If you designed it so that the legs were significantly wider than the table top it might also help. This would make it something like a rectangular frustum (truncated pyramid).
Of course, to make that truly stable, a few diagonal braces should be added .
I saw a really nice work table for sale on Craig's list yesterday, with a 2" x 6" top, 6 ft long, 38" high for 60 bucks. The material will cost more than that. I already have a good one, so I let it pass.
So did my lathe table, even though the design is solid. No matter. I put four eyebolts in the back. Two per leg, one at the top, one at the bottom. Strung some steel wire in an X across the back and put it under tension.
NOW it is the immovable object, unless by God's irresistible force.
From experience. First time around I took a plank and made ONE cross brace. Good for tension and compression, and it worked. But it's still not as tight as the cable solution, and when you use the space under the lathe for bin storage, you can't push the bins in as far, cables have more flexibility than a plank.
A plank is cheaper though.
My way for a short narrow bench is to leave some overhang of the bench top at the back, to just fit over a horizontal 2x4 cleat that is lagged to the wall studs. Run a line of long screws through the bench top into the cleat and your bench will be as stiff as your house.
Edit: Seems I misremembered the attachment method I used. Not screws, but steel angle brackets from under the bench top to the cleat, installed such that the bench is pulled tight against the wall. It's like it was framed with the house.
Last edited by Nueces; 02-09-2016 at 10:06 PM.
^^^ One of the most efficient set-ups I have seen. And way too neat I might add. Nice spot.
RickF, if I could keep my loading bench that neat my wife might let me in the house with it. My being relegated to the barn should tell you all you need to know....
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |