Can this be fixed

[wolf3006]

Can anyone tell how to fix this mold . Cut in cavity is about 1/64deep 3/32 long

[Mica_Hiebert]

Maybe fill it in with brazing rod and file fit... good luck.

[wolf3006]

Thanks Mica

[country gent]

If a true cut with square edges you might be able to fix it by cutting and forming a piece of brass or aluminum ( for this to work the material needs to be soft and maleable) slightly thicker than the cut and close to outside shape. Make a small sharp chiesel from a drill blank 1/8" dia at the biggerst. WOrk carefully around edges forming an undercut around them. set your fill piece in place and tape over it. WIth a radioused end punch 1/8" dia to 3/16" dia work from center to edges tapping lightly your wanting to casue the piece to flow into the under cut slowly and evenly to form a mechanical lock on it. This is how gold and silver inlays are held inplace. WOrk slowly The tape will help hold the small piece in place while you get it worked in. Start in the middle working to the edges. once it in and tight dress down to face of mould and blend to cavity edge. A 2-4 ounce ball peen hammer is ideal here you dont want to force it you need to coax finease it into place slowly with light blows slowly walking the material into place. If a ding or dent the metal is still there and can be moved back into place with a polished lightly radioused flat punch and the light ball peen start back from edge ( this is where the metal is now. Lightly tapping and working to the ding around the outside as you work around you will slowly see the dnet ding closing up and becoming smaller. On a dent ding the meatal is still there to use its just been displaced and needs moved back. On a true cut the meatal is gone hence working under the edge to form a dovetail for the mechanical locck to hold new metal in place. I perfer brass as its a "deader" metal than most aluminum.

[noisewaterphd]

Use high temp epoxy? This way you could smooth it in mostly flat before it cures, then file.

This is dependent on whether the "high temp" JB Weld stuff really works. I've never used it.

Just an idea.

[Norbrat]

As long as it doesn't hold the cavities slightly apart when assembled to the other half, ignore it; you can pick off the little lead dimple on the casting.

Even if you leave the dimple in place, it will make no difference to the performance of the boolit.

I would hesitate to heat the block enough to braze it as it could distort.

[country gent]

There are epoxies that will take the heat a mould operates at we had them at work for some od jobs and runninf repairs. Hardware off the shelf will start to soften break down in the 300*-400* range. THe one we used to rebuild press crossheads ( glued on a turcite layer and refit) held to over 600 degrees in oil and grease enviroment. ( Sham Bam way lock) It is a 3 part epoxy base, hardener and a grit to maintain bond thickness when clamped to cure. Braise might work but you will be heating blocks way hotter than intended. A good welder with a heli arc could fill it in with proper rod and rework.

[Cord]

You could send it to Erik Ohlen at Hollow Point Bullet Mold Service.

He does Micro TIG welding to repair things like that,
and has pictures of the process on an example mold.
http://www.hollowpointmold.com/weld-repairs/

Or you could also have him hollow-point the mold
and take out the nick in the process.

He does excellent work.
.

[ascast]

no
1) remove any material that keeps blocks apart - they must close up like new.
2) remove any thing in the cavity that will prevent bullet drop out.
3) cast some and shoot them
4) any tit on the outside can be scraped off prior to shooting
long range BPCR shooters prick molds to orient in chamber, or tell one cavity from another. we're talking 600 plus yards.
It's not an un-common practice in that game.
If it does not shoot to your level, send it out to be hollow pointed, and use or sell.
Brazing, welding and all that will not work. Don't waste your time. You will have to recut the cavity, or grind out the excess braze/weld material. It is very hard to do with hand held tools.
epoxy might work, but I doubt it.

good luck

[BwBrown]

Metallic filler - liquid steel. I have used high temp epoxy on exhaust pipes that reach temps of 1000 plus degrees f.
It is a small spot to fill, not much stress on it, get the blocks closing tight, file, sand smooth, see how long it lasts - not much to loose.
Brazing would be the longest term fix.
The notes above about displaced metal are important when getting the blocks to fit tightly back together.

[typz2slo]

I have used this product for fixing cuts on gasket surfaces on high pressure steam lines.
http://www.copaltite.com/sealants.html

[wolf3006]

Thanks everyone ! Going to contact (Hollow point molds)Let them make a hollow point out of it.

[robg]

Ascast is on the money ,cast with it and rub the bump off after

[JSnover]

Thanks everyone ! Going to contact (Hollow point molds)Let them make a hollow point out of it.

Might be simpler to convert it to a round nose, unless the COAL is critical.