Two piece boolit and PC

[Hickok]

I am sure some of you remember the old Lyman two piece boolit that was hard/soft and glued together with epoxy.

Thinking of this concept, I wonder how well it would work with PC.

A mold to cast the front/nose portion of pure lead, and a mold to cast the rear boolit portion with hard alloy, then PC both parts of the boolit, put them together and bake. The way PC bonds after baking, it might make a great hunting boolit.

It would be great if Lee could make two molds say in .30 cal for a two piece boolit like Lyman used to make for handguns.

Any opinions?

[Smoke4320]

Not sure the PC would be able to handle the twist stress of just it holding the 2 halves together ..
Should be fairly simple to test the concept ..
Take a Std bullet saw in half.. pc both pieces together cure and shoot .. then report back ..
should do with both pistol and rifle bullets ..

Your assignment if you choose to accept it
this post will self destruct in 10 seconds

[HiVelocity]

I'll throw my .02 in for conversation; "Why not simply cast a boolit, powder coat it, then heat treat it in the oven?" Would that not be simpler?

HV

[bangerjim]

And........we do not know the effects of the 400F bake on the integrity of the epoxy used. Depending on the brand, quality, and formulation, high heat could destroy the bond. You need to test the glue you would be using.

I would just stick to the plain old cast stuff we all use and love.

I use GC's where the back end needs cutting protection and do not rely on hard lead.

But let us know what your find out.

banger

[Maximumbob54]

I can certainly attest to the bond formed between two bases that rested against each other during baking. I had two 8mm Max bullets glued together that both bent before that PC would snap apart. Just to see since I ruined the bullets anyways, I clamped one in the vice and grabbed the other with pliers and that just bent it even more. It went back into the melt for next time after that. Now I wish I had snapped a pic.

If anything I always wondered about maybe taking a HP mold design and making it so that you could connect a solid in the HP's cavity. That would be a heck of a lot easier to build them. But then I've never seen the old mold designs either.

[williamwaco]

I am sure some of you remember the old Lyman two piece boolit that was hard/soft and glued together with epoxy.

Thinking of this concept, I wonder how well it would work with PC.

A mold to cast the front/nose portion of pure lead, and a mold to cast the rear boolit portion with hard alloy, then PC both parts of the boolit, put them together and bake. The way PC bonds after baking, it might make a great hunting boolit.

It would be great if Lee could make two molds say in .30 cal for a two piece boolit like Lyman used to make for handguns.

Any opinions?

Lee will make you a custom mold as will any number of custom mold builders here.

Order a two cavity with the the base in one cavity and the nose in the other.

[fredj338]

Lee will make you a custom mold as will any number of custom mold builders here.

Order a two cavity with the the base in one cavity and the nose in the other.

Except to my knowledge, LEE doesn't do HP designs & that would require a hollow cav in the base with fitted nose piece so they could be glued together. I would think a good cup point design that was PC would do what ever is needed in a handgun.

[Maximumbob54]

Lee does offer hollow base molds so a HP mold isn't far off for them one bit. Not sure why they are resisting a red hot sale.

[RP]

They offered hollowed point molds in the past I had two of them not as good as others

[Hickok]

I was casting some two alloy soft points for hunting boolits in .30 caliber and the idea of the old Lyman two piece boolit popped into my head and how PC might really stick the portions together. Oh well, bad idea down the crapper.

I'll just stick with 50/50 COW/pure boolit or two alloy soft points for .30 cal. rifles for hunting.

[KenH]

I thought the generally accepted practice for a hard base and soft point was to pour front half with soft lead, let cook, then pour hard alloy for last half. Wouldn't the hot lead from back half bond nicely to front half?

Ken H>

[Hickok]

I thought the generally accepted practice for a hard base and soft point was to pour front half with soft lead, let cook, then pour hard alloy for last half. Wouldn't the hot lead from back half bond nicely to front half?

Ken H>

Yep, that is how I make my two alloy soft points.