Maybe the admins can make this into a "sticky" after a few add their inputs?
NOTE: Shooting black powder can be dangerous as is any shooting sport. If you are not sure what to do try to find some help and at all times go slowly, keep the muzzle pointed away from your head and ONLY PUT THE PERCUSSION CAP ON WHEN READY TO SHOOT! The steps noted below are gathered from many sources, including "old timers", Ned Roberts book and my own mistakes!
The question comes up now and then so what do I need if I decide to try this muzzle loading and black powder idea? Here is what I tell the folks at the range in San Diego:
- A rifle, preferably a 45 or 50 cal Hawken such as T/C that you can find on Gun Broker for several hundred since you might not like this at all and don't want to be out $$$$$$ and you can always use it for experimenting. In the beginning, don't worry about twist rate, number of rifling grooves, type of sights, etc, etc. You just want to have a reliable starter gun. As far as I know, even in the great state of CA with all our gun foolishness, NO FFL is required even on modern reproductions as long as they can NOT use a cartridge at all.
- Rods, cleaning w/jag, patch puller and a separate ram rod as ramming the patched ball in as this usually breaks the wooden rod that comes with the gun after a while.
- Round balls of appropriate size (ask the seller) and some commercial pre-lubed patches. The pre-lubed patches will get you started and then you can make your own from pillow ticking or linen.
- Powder flask and adjustable measure with that little funnel so you know how much to add and the funnel keeps you from spilling that expensive black powder.
- Cleaning patches of appropriate size and some cleaner and oil. Many use Windex as a cleaner and CLP as the oil. Remember we are just starting out here so you can actually use boiling water like they did in the 1800s.
- Nipple wrench and a some pipe cleaners to clean the fire channel.
- Tool for pulling the wedge so you can pull the barrel.
- Spare nipples, make sure the thread size is correct.
- Some sort of carpet or rubber piece to sit the stock on while the gun is standing upright. Also some sort of holder for the barrel while standing up is handy.
- Ball starter and a rubber mallet to start the ball. You may not have to use the mallet to start and/or seat the ball depending on how tight the fit at the muzzle is. Some rifle barrels have what is called "choke" so the muzzle will be tight and the ball and patch will loosen as it goes down the barrel. Better to have and not need it than.........
- Black powder and percussion caps. I would stay away from substitutes when starting out since you want the real smoke and smell and get a couple tins of caps. Most rifles use #11?
- Some wax or linseed oil to keep the wood looking nice. I wipe my stocks monthly.
When shooting: make sure barrel is clear to the bottom by the metal sound of the ram rod then mark it with some tape to tell you when it is empty. Make sure the set trigger is adjusted right and you do not have to normally have to cock the hammer to test the trigger. Make sure half cock works and full cock works and the hammer stays back when setting the rear trigger. Fire a couple caps with barrel pointed near the ground to see the dust move and then wipe the barrel with a dry patch to see the residue.
Load the powder flask from the 1 pound can, then adjust the measure to the load you want to use. Use the flask to load the measure. Pour it in the barrel using the little funnel. Place a patch (one only) on the muzzle and then a round ball. Press the starter on the ball to get it going and use your hand or mallet to get the ball going. Fully seat the ball and there should be a distance between the muzzle and the tape line you added earlier. Get the rifle aimed down range and ready to shoot then fully cock the hammer and set the rear trigger. I do this in case the trigger adjustment has moved the the hammer falls and you do NOT want a cap on the nipple. If all is well, put the cap on, aim and touch the front trigger. There should be a loud bang, lots of smoke and you'll be surprised how little kick there is. Everyone around you will holler and swear about the smoke but now you're hooked! Some shooter wipe with a wet and a dry patch after each shot, some do not so try both methods.
For cleaning, there are as many methods as there are black powder shooters. Personally I use the 3 part cleaner, I.E. alcohol, hydrogen peroxide and Murphy's Oil Soap in equal parts. A couple times a year I also use boiling water as explained in Ned Roberts' book and you have to be very careful not to burn yourself. To do this I pull the barrel and plug the nipple hole then support the barrel vertical with a towel wrapped around the barrel. This works well if the barrel has a "patent breach" as they are hard to get into. Dump whatever you use and refill and then wipe with patches until clean. I use some CLP, others use other oil or Bore Butter to "season" the steel. Store the rifle muzzle down so the nipple and fire channel do not fill with oil.