Am getting back into loading metallics. With new Starline brass do I just prime, add powder & seat bullet? These will be light 41mag and 223 loads. No case prep required - case sizing, trimming, etc? Thanks for any input.
Am getting back into loading metallics. With new Starline brass do I just prime, add powder & seat bullet? These will be light 41mag and 223 loads. No case prep required - case sizing, trimming, etc? Thanks for any input.
I run all new brass through a FCD, check for length, trim if necessary, & bevel inside and outside of case mouth just to satisfy myself. That's just me, others will chime in for sure.
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
New brass needs to be ran thru a sizer to make it round and deburred at the mouth.
For rifle brass I also uniform the primer flash hole in side the case and trim to length.
Calamity Jake
NRA Life Member
SASS 15704
Shoot straight, keepem in the ten ring.
I do the same as Calamity Jake.
Yup, size it and de-burr both ends.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
Make sure you round out the case mouths by expanding the neck. If the factory put burrs on the case mouths you can remove the burrs by deburring or turning. One deburred they are ready to load.
EDG
Thanks to all! Slim - FCD? Sorry, it's been 40 years since I loaded for rifle or pistol. Been shot gunning and bird hunting, but good old friend can't shotgun any more and has me back out to rifle & pistol range 2-3 days a week and I enjoy it a lot.
Depends on what you are doing. Accurate ones, I size, uniform primer pockets, de-burr flash hole, turn necks, trim, and weigh (either give away or use the heavy/light brass for plinking).
je suis charlie
It is better to live one day as a LION than a dozen days as a Sheep.
Thomas Jefferson Quotations:
"The strongest reason for the people to retain the right to keep and bear arms is, as a last resort, to protect themselves against tyranny in government."
Just me, but I also run mine through the tumbler to clean up a bit.
"Freedom is never more than one generation away from extinction. We didn't pass it to our children in the bloodstream. It must be fought for, protected, and handed on for them to do the same......." - Ronald Reagan
"It is foolish and wrong to mourn the men who died. Rather, we should thank God that such men lived." - George Patton
The second amendment is a nail on which hangs a picture of freedom - member Alex 4x4 Tver, Russia
I have ordered and loaded many MANY hundreds of rounds of several Starline brass calibers and all were perfect right out of the box, no prep ever needed. I did check them , but all were excellent. Other brands.............not so much!
They make good stuff, from the many I have used. And I just cannot seem to wear them out!
banger
I flare the mouth a little, prime it, and load it. I don't resize until once fired.
KE4GWE - - - - - - Colt 1860, it just feels right.
FCD=full case sizing die as opposed to neck sizer die.
Slim
JUST GOTTA LOVE THIS JOINT.
New brass cases can be out of round bodies ca be out of round dinged from shipping and handling. I run thru a full length sizer lightly lubed, then check overall length and on some calibers lightly trim cae mouths to square them up. I then deburr and chamfer lightly. I also deburr flashholes, and uniform primer pockets. On my 243 I also neck turn them since it is a tight necked chamber. Its easier to do this at the start right from the get go for me.
I use Starline for 45LC and their lengths have always been good to go. Some are out of round or dented at the case mouth but I just smooth those out with an empty 30'06 case before lubing and filling the case feed hopper. Mine get resized because that is how the press is set up. Using a single stage press, FLS is always a good idea but tedious when not depriming.
It depends on the brand. Norma brass in 257 Wby. was dead on for length, and had case mouths chamfered inside and out on 100 cases. Win. 243 had necks that appeared to be pinch cut, varied in length as much as .011, with jagged mouths. The Normas cost $145 per C and the Win. Cost $22 per C. You get what you pay for.
All Starline I have had have been top quality.
Trimming new brass before they are fire formed will end up with brass too short.trim if necessary
Regards
John
Since pistol brass typically gets a neck expander/mouth flair I usually just load it.
Bottle neck rifle brass especially bulk packed always seem to have dinged up necks. While I don't normally debur flash holes except for when I get anal about brass prep, like the others who posted I have found it totally necessary to debur the case mouths of new brass. If you don't and are NOT using for cast boolits with a mouth flair you will shave jacket material. This may not be so with some high end brands but it certainly is with your normal Remington, Winchester, etc. etc......
Motor
New brass? It's been so long I don't remember.
The sooner I fall behind...the more time I have to catch up with
I have learned to size new brass. Went to use some new stuff out of the bag and the flare tool offered little resistance, a bullet could be pushed in some of them with finger pressure. So I size any new brass now, just to make sure. I trim any new brass to, its seldom a uniform length out of the bag.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |