It only makes sense to me if you've already got a bunch of 000 buckshot around, like if you cast it. Otherwise, I'd recommend a lightweight mold. I cast 100gr flat nose for the .380 already, and those work quite well as light .38spl loads.
It only makes sense to me if you've already got a bunch of 000 buckshot around, like if you cast it. Otherwise, I'd recommend a lightweight mold. I cast 100gr flat nose for the .380 already, and those work quite well as light .38spl loads.
ΜΟΛΩΝ ΛΑΒΕ
I load 2 .360 round balls in a .38 case over 3.3 gr. BE. about 850fps, if memory serves.
That would equal approx. 3.6gr. Unique, conservatively. I have the top RB about half way out of the case, and they're touching each other. They shoot fine, pretty mild. I sold my 18 cav. 000 buckshot mold, and have 3 such rounds left . I shot quite a few for awhile there.
Thanks gents! I've been teetering between 000 buck and a light weight bullet. Anything to shoot cheaply as possible. Any of these loads will work for me, and are more available than .22 LR that I used to shoot so many of, but can't get but rarely.
jim
I like the idea of the 2-cav RB mold–that 18-cav was challenging.
The 2-cavs are made in all calibers.
+1 on what 2wheelDuke said.
I tried round ball in .44 mag and while it worked fine I am having much better results using a lightweight 165 gr. TC boolit mould I got made by Accurate. Works great.
Cheap on lead and and powder... and low recoil for fun plinking.
If you already have 000 buck or a suitable round ball mould then use that but if you are buying a mould anyway I would go with lightweight boolit over ball.
My $0.02.
Longbow
I shoot .360 RB in a single shot rifle. I seat the ball deep directly on the powder. In a revolver it would be necessary to find a way to keep the ball positioned deep. Possibly a suitably sized carbide die that would size down the unfilled portion of the case , about .65 inch. 3 gr of Red Dot should give about 1200 fps in a 6" revolver according to QuickLoad. It gives considerably more in a 22 inch rifle barrel. Being able to seat the ball directly on the powder makes all the difference for consistency and clean burn.
I experimented with 360 (000) round balls with 38 using unique (very dirty) and trailboss I finally just went with 90 gn full wad cutters and my results where allot more consistent!
How about this? :
Attachment 151613
Maybe in a Marlin 1894 .357?
USMC 6638
Ya got me thinking now. I have a variety of cast boolits of different weights in 22, 25 and 30 cal. I think I will put some pre lubed ones through the old Swag-O-Matic .358 die with different nose punches and see how they shoot with 2 to 3grs of Bulls Eye.
I'm a little late getting to this thread but I'll ad my $.02 anyway.
My first handgun was a 6" Taurus 66 and some of my first reloads were two RBs over Bullseye (can't remember the charge but it was fairly mild for the combined weight of the balls) in once-fired brass.
About one of every four cases split. Blast/recoil were normal. My theory was the when the first ball hit the forcing cone it stopped and was driven out by the second ball as the powder continued to burn, causing a spike. I also found later that the timing was a little off.
Having learned quite a bit since then I would do it again, I just thought I'd share may experience, because it appears to back up Oyebotens thoughts.
Warning: I know Judo. If you force me to prove it I'll shoot you.
Handloader's Digest 1964 Had a lot of data for squib loads....
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I have played around with multi ball loads but have never had good results with round ball loads. Too many fliers and messy lubes killed the joy for me.
However I have a Lyman 358-101 75 grain wadcutter that has lead a dual life. Initially, It was lightweight boolit for low recoil trainers for my 7 year old daughter to learn to shoot with. Later, I got the idea of using them as multi ball projectiles. I have revisited the idea several times with pretty good results. Two in a 38 casing or three in a 357 casing makes for interesting shooting. A 75 grain WC under a 115 grain SWC also works very well. I used the Starting Unique load for the 358-430 from the old (and generally useless, save for the pictures in the back) Lyman No. 2 Cast bullet Handbook and reduced it a few tenths.
IIRC, the first picture shows the result of 6 3-ball loads, though only 15 holes are discernable. The second shows the boolits used and a couple of the 3 boolit 357 loads on the left and two of the two boolit loads on the right.
Note the 3 ball loads are crimped in the bottom grease groove. If you were to deep seat them, the cases bulge to the point where loading them is impossible. It also allows a little more room for powder.
_________________________________________________It's not that I can't spell: it is that I can't type.
This is an interesting series of postings started in year 2010 and made it to 2015. no
These experiments with light loads have been written about by shooters in ols black powder hunting books where they used leather punching for bullets from thick saddle leather and loaded them into cap and ball pistols in .32,.38 , and .44 caliber.
They were used as short range loads for target shooting as well as dispatching of varmints like mice, rats and squirrels.
Some used them for rabbits and moles who invade your garden.
Later, after WW1, the cats sneeze loads for both pistol and rifle became more popular.
But the old trapdoor 45/70 always had foraging loads using lite 130 grain collar button bullets.
With straight wall cases as well ad cap and ball, it was customary to seat the bullet right down on the powder in the case.
The old first brass cases were called balloon cases because they were straight sided without any taper to the bottom of the shell.
A d the primer pocket protruded into the case instead of being punched in the web of the case as are the modern cases. The c
old cases were weaker, but they were straight sided and you could easily seat a bullet or ball deep in the case atop the black powder or whatever powder you used.
Some modern made replicas of old cases that use a web instead of letting the primer pocket bulge into the case are the .45 Colt by Winchester and the 45/70 case as well seem to have a shallower web to hold the primer pocket and thereby don't show as much internal taper. So when you can seat a projectile deeper in the case, you can increase pressure using very little powder to expel the bullet.
A quieter, less powerful load, but still useful at close range.
The Starline brass is heavier, thicker brass than the Winchester, but they seem to be making their cases heavier as well.
Anyway, all this means that it takes more work for a quiet squib load than it used to.
There's paper patch, cloth patching, Hot glue bullets and wax slugs as well for close range paper punching.
Then there's the pistol shotshell cartridges experiments.
And uncooked rice as well as ground walnut hulls loaded for close range work. These entail overpowder wads and sleeves to protect the pattern when shot.
There are .32 and .38 special loads needing only 3/4 grain of fast pistol powder for close range work.
The experimenting and methods used vary, but this is sure nothing new.
Take it from there and good luck.
I will also add that primer powered wax slugs from a .38 or .45 will easily kill a mouse, rat or squirrel if they are shot at close range in the body. Sometimes a second shot with a squirrel, but it makes a mess of them.A hot glue bullet is final. Be careful as these are real bullets, just not lead.
It pays to treat them as carefully as lead bullets.
Those old balloon head .32 S&W cases are straight sided so I am able to seat a round ball on top of the primer allowing me to shoot a primer powered ball to punch paper.
I prefer using the glue bullets as they are higher velocity than the lead pea shooter.
Look at castpics/articles for Round Ball loads. I did an article on round ball loads and it's posted there.
I found the .38 Special tp be the best candidate and it gave me a nice workable load with two balls. Give's you a place to start anyway. I always keep a couple of boxes loaded and carry some around the place here. Pretty good on snakes in the springtime.
I did not have that good of results with the .44 Mag but the .357 showed promise with three balls. I worked up a load for the .45 ACP but it was pretty dismal.
Single ball loads should be apiece of cake to work up./beagle
diplomacy is being able to say, "nice doggie" until you find a big rock.....
Just buy a Lee resizing die in whatever size you wish, then anoint liberally with BLL (Ben's Liquid Lube) There's BOUND to be a sticky somewhere in here. Or order some Lars' 45-45-10. It'll do good, too!
Last edited by sniper; 03-01-2021 at 02:48 PM. Reason: typogoofical error!
IT IS A FINE AND PLEASANT MADNESS !
I wonder about running oversize balls through a sizer die, think .375" in a 360 for a slightly longer bearing surface and pc'ing them. Anyone tried that route? I have rb molds for all but the 40 cal for all I shoot over 30 cal.
[The Montana Gianni] Front sight and squeeze
I've loaded powder coated .490 round balls sized in a .454 die in my 45 Colt revolvers and rifles' There is a flat left that is about 1/8 inch wide. I've used most of the fast burning pistol powders, but around 5 or 6 grs of Bullseye works best. Ditto with .440 round balls in my 44 revolvers. Accuracy is quite good for short range plinkin etc. Also no need for messy lubes.
D
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |