Noob would like to try PCing

[tnaz]

Just kicking the idea around. A couple of question; saw some that looked as though they poured their PC boolits out to bake, thought you had to stand them up? If you can just pour them out will the side that is on the non stick foil stick and have no powder on that side area of boolit? Does inside lube groove need a coat, will it get coated?

Powder: I have a HF close so their powder is ease to obtain, Is there really a difference in powders? I think I read here that two casters are selling powder and offer a sample of 4 colors, who? Smoke and?

Air soft BB's, read that the black bb's are the ones to use, Wally-world has red ,blue and I think yellow in stock here. Will one of these work or is their something in the black pigment that does something?

Shake and bake: use cool whip container not tupperware, how about the glad disposable that have the screw on lids.

I'm sure I read the answers but my antique brain has never retained well.

Thanks for any info, and mostly for those that broke the ground that saved the rest a lot of time,

Terry

[jcren]

Some guys dump on wire racks, some dump in a cookie sheet and roll off excess then dump on foil, I just stand mine up. Powder quality makes a big difference in coverage and low friction when sizing, does it matter shooting? I don't know but I use smoke's powders now. The translucent bb's don't work well, it must he the material, but the heavy, matte/solid colors work better, I have used white Crossman bb's a lot. I love the glad containers with skrew tops, just be sure they have a "5" in the triangle recycling symbol on bottom.

[edler7]

Smoke's powder leaves the HF stuff in the dust. Pick 4 colors and order his sampler packages, along with some of his BBs. You won't be sorry, and his service is fast.

He can be found in the vendor section of Cast Boolits.

[Gunslinger1911]

Tnaz, I'm a noob too. Just jump in ! I started with HF red just to have some quick and cheap.
Container with "5" recycle number, black bb's best - some people seem to get results with other colors (I'm guessing the different colors are different hardness and different types of plastic).
Get the no stick alum foil !!!!
Sacrifice an old toaster oven, stick your grill thermometer in there.
I stand them up with forceps ground down to fit in the lube grooves.
See how it goes.
I had good enough results that I ordered a 4 color starter pack from Smoke. (He says blue and green seem to coat very well for beginners)
Have fun !

[Beagle333]

It does not need to be down inside the lube grooves at all. It only needs to be on the parts that rub against the barrel. It only reduces friction of surfaces that touch and a coating anywhere else is just for the looks. You don't need it on the nose or base, but it usually gets there just because of the way we coat. Ideally, to maximize powder usage, one would roll the boolits in a light dusting of the powder and coat only the driving bands and any of the nose that might ride the bore.... but powder just isn't that expensive and doesn't stick that well when just rolling it on and so we usually coat the whole thing by shaking or spraying. Have fun with it!!

[bangerjim]

Just get out there and do it. You will VERY rapidly find out want works and does not work for you and your climate!

All clear directions are on this site in volumes!!!!!!!!!

The black BB's are made of a totally different plastic alloy for weight and hardness and I have found from many hours of experimentation with ALL of them they work the best. Why not use them and eliminate just one of the over a dozen variables to BBDT!

TOPS OF DRIVE BANDS ONLY need be coated. Anything else is just cosmetic.

We have found #5 round plastics work the best (just another variable to eliminate!)

I have been doing ESPC and BBDT for well over 2 years and it is not rocket science.

Have fun!

bangerjim

[tnaz]

Thanks gents, I've read and re-read and I think I got it. I'm in the middle of ordering from Mr. Smoke, the sample pack. Wife picked me a stove from the second hand store, and I'm sure I can find some #5 bowls with the screw on lids in the kitchen. I'll snag some black asbb from wally tomorrow. If anyone thinks of something a noob needs to think on please do pass it on.

Terry

[Beagle333]

Just be sure you are at 400°. A cheap baking thermometer from the grocery store can help you calibrate and occasionally check your oven setting.
Example:
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Service...0_SR160%2C160_

[tnaz]

Just be sure you are at 400°. A cheap baking thermometer from the grocery store can help you calibrate and occasionally check your oven setting.
Example:
http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Service...0_SR160%2C160_

I have a couple thermometers and an infra-red shoot. Tomorrow i'll check with all to get my readings. I fig that the dial is off.
I think I read PCing needs to be between 325-400, 15 to 20 minutes. Watched some videos on u-tube also. Most here do 400 for 20 minutes?

Thanks again

tnaz

[jcren]

My Nuwave maxes a out at 375, so I run 25 minutes from cold. Seems to stick OK, this one went through a 5 gallon bucket of water (length wise) and was dug up 16" in tight clay soil.

[bangerjim]

I have found out from the several powders I use (and many THOUSANDS of boolits baked!) that 10 min @ 400F is all that is needed. And that is the spec that is on most powders. I would recommend to follow the directions of the powder you buy. Longer is not needed and gains nothing.......only wastes time and electricity.

That 10 min is from when the powder turns shiny as stated many many times on here.

Just use the hammer smash test to check whatever baking procedures you elect to use.

banger

[Motor]

tnaz. The infrared won't work through the oven glass door. At least the one I barrowed from my brother (who is a licensed jet mechanic) won't. So I wait until it cycles off ease the door open and shoot it through the center of the baking area.

Motor

[Whizzer]

tnaz. The infrared won't work through the oven glass door. At least the one I barrowed from my brother (who is a licensed jet mechanic) won't. So I wait until it cycles off ease the door open and shoot it through the center of the baking area.

Motor

Correct. I am a screenprinter and have several infrared thermos. The are great for shooting a t-shirt coming out of the conveyor oven. But they are very limited on certain surfaces. Black or dark matt finishes work best. Anything shiny, bright or transparent...all bets are off, especially shiny stuff like aluminum or mirrored finishes.

A simple oven thermometer in your toaster oven is just fine. It isn't rocket science. If you are around 400° even a little longer than 10 minutes doesn't seem to hurt. Smash 'em and if they hold up to that and an acetone test, you are dialed-in enough for normal shooting. Competition bench rest shooting is another matter entirely.

[Markbo]

Why is the "5" recycle number so important??

[Maximumbob54]

If it makes you feel any better, I made these disasters and once sized they still shot just fine:





I was shocked that they shot just fine. But all they were was ugly. They were still sized right and didn't lead the bore.

[jcren]

The 5 represents the type of plastic. This type just seems to generate a lot of static when the powder is swirled around in it.

[fredj338]

I use wire mesh drawer organizers. The wire is quite fine, so bullets standing or on their side, same, same. No flash & any slight imperfection gets sized out, yes I size after.
http://www.amazon.com/Honey-Can-Do-K...awer+organizer

[bangerjim]

Why is the "5" recycle number so important??

Like said many times, it is the alloy of plastic used in the recycle #5 classification.

Polypro seems to work the best! Trust us. Just use it to eliminate one of those MANY variables with voodo BBDT coatings.

If you really want to know what the numbers are:

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Recycling_codes

banger

[bangerjim]

I use wire mesh drawer organizers. The wire is quite fine, so bullets standing or on their side, same, same. No flash & any slight imperfection gets sized out, yes I size after.
http://www.amazon.com/Honey-Can-Do-K...awer+organizer

How do you keep the PC from sticking to the mesh???????????? That is what we use the NSAF for, to prevent the coat from sticking. And from what I have seen, it sticks to ANYTHING and EVERYTHING it touches! NSAF, parchment, and baking mats are the only things I have found the stuff will not stick to. Once stuck, you have to either grind it off or throw the thing away. As coats build up, sticking gets even worse.

That price will buy 2 rolls of NSAF that lasts a LOOOOOOOONG time.

banger

[Maximumbob54]

Those will work for a while but it's far cheaper to just make your own from hardware cloth:

http://www.amazon.com/Inch-Mesh-Tall...hardware+cloth

But I would just roll down to the local Home Depot, Lowes, Ace, whatever to grab a roll. This is why I try to do two thin coatings instead of just one. With the thinner coat hardly any of the PC really sticks and you don't get deep lines in the coating. Yes, it takes twice shaking and baking but it's not like I'm just standing there waiting for a toaster.