GunFun,
The wiring diagram is on the motor label. The two yellow wires connect to the capacitor with blue & brown as line voltage & green for ground, Bruce.
GunFun,
The wiring diagram is on the motor label. The two yellow wires connect to the capacitor with blue & brown as line voltage & green for ground, Bruce.
Thanks. You have sharper eyes than mine.
I've wired up big motors by following the charts under the lid.
I will buy a couple of these then and refurb my dillon and also a dead baby raytech I was just given.
In the market for a multicavity Mi-Hec 9mm HP mold.
I presently cast for .380 ACP, 9mm, .38/.357, 30 cal and .45 and 12 Ga slug.
I am particularly grateful for the help I have gotten from members Red333 and MSRdiver, and OLD Para (who made a crazy mold on my design!!!!!) as well as excellent guides by Recluse for his ideal lube process. I have been experimenting with poly coating too.
PM me if you know of a very cheap source of birdshot, or an efficient way to make #4 Buck.
The problem With Reloading Tumbler Is That There Cheaply made. . There not expensive and Made to reorder again and again. . Motors are not Continuos Running and parts are Home owner Grade
. In Rock tumbling Circles, One of the Best Vibrators are from Rayteck industries . In rotary ., it's lortone ,Covington, Diamond Pacific. Most if not all will Be good for 20 years . have several Lortone 12 LB. . They never Break
If they will Tumble Rock for Days . Cases are apiece of cake. There not Cheap.
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
Raytech seems to have been bought out by Lyman.
The particular model I was given seems to be their consumer grade tiny model and was definitely built down to a price. Both are bronze bushing type motors, and the dillon motor physically cracked at the zamac braketry which holds the commutator.
I'm well aware of industrial machines, but I don't have the industrial grade $$$ or the place to keep as big a machine as some of those are. The machines I have are nice thick soft plastic that isn't loud, but the motors failed. I think I can replace the motors every few years and have a better machine than they were to start with. The motor I linked above has ball bearings, so it might even survive a while. A lot of people had this particular dillon tumbler die, and would be glad to just spend $10-50 on a solid motor and be back in business. Other than the motor, it is a quiet, solidly made pieces of kit with good dust seals. It is a convenient size for reloading too.
In the market for a multicavity Mi-Hec 9mm HP mold.
I presently cast for .380 ACP, 9mm, .38/.357, 30 cal and .45 and 12 Ga slug.
I am particularly grateful for the help I have gotten from members Red333 and MSRdiver, and OLD Para (who made a crazy mold on my design!!!!!) as well as excellent guides by Recluse for his ideal lube process. I have been experimenting with poly coating too.
PM me if you know of a very cheap source of birdshot, or an efficient way to make #4 Buck.
On a semi-related note, there are a lot of these tumblers out there. I would be quite happy to pick them up dead and put new motors if this motor works well. It would be convenient to have several of these for different tasks. One for dirty brass, another to apply polish. 3 more for putting different colors of powder coat on cast bullets.
In the market for a multicavity Mi-Hec 9mm HP mold.
I presently cast for .380 ACP, 9mm, .38/.357, 30 cal and .45 and 12 Ga slug.
I am particularly grateful for the help I have gotten from members Red333 and MSRdiver, and OLD Para (who made a crazy mold on my design!!!!!) as well as excellent guides by Recluse for his ideal lube process. I have been experimenting with poly coating too.
PM me if you know of a very cheap source of birdshot, or an efficient way to make #4 Buck.
Everyone seems to Have there Own Opinion . I For One don't like to Replace things.. In todays Disposable world Co. want you to buy , buy, buy. Dump for Next years new stuff.
Over the years The Old Motto still haunts You. Cheap you buy, cheap you get. Cheap things aren't good , good things aren.t cheap
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
I guess I complicate things to save money..just old and cheap that way...I decap all brass...give it 10 minute bath in a citrus bath...let it dry well and tumble for about an hour instead of 4...makes everything clean in and out and saves wear and tear and I don't get dust all over everything...My Lyman tumbler has never had a hiccup
I have No complaints with any of them. is all a matter of what you like and can afford to pay. . Not to get off the topic. It's just the Poor quality of Most products Imported. At one Time we made it Good , now we make it Cheap. for the economy
Sal
NRA Endowment Member
International Ammunition Association
New York, the Empire State Where Empires were Won and Lost
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |