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Thread: reloading the 5.56 vs .223

  1. #61
    Boolit Grand Master Harter66's Avatar
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    Yep you're write.
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  2. #62
    Boolit Master
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    Trying to set the record straight and disproving myths is one thing and could probably use another 4 page or more thread but when it comes to a caliber such as the .223 / 5.56x45 there are so many different military and commercial casings used that the hand loader really does need to be extra careful when working with unfamiliar casings.

    Motor

  3. #63
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    RogerDat's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Motor View Post
    OP. If you are loading for a AR15 get yourself some sticky back foam rubber or something similar that is about 1/8" thick. Cut a peice that will fit the shell deflector and stick it on it. This will prevent you from adding to the dents. When it wares out, replace it with another peice.

    Motor
    Will be run through a mini-14 but this is range brass so it would be more probable that it went through an AR style mechanism before I got to it. My hope is to end up with plinking ammo, at reasonable cost with a load that drops the brass in the same zip code it is being fired from. Then take that to a cast bullet. Maybe PC'd or maybe 45/45/10 tumble lube.

    I will say that reloading this caliber is more work. Volume as great as pistol but with the extra complexity of necked ammo normally done in small quantity for bolt action. Can just feed revolver reloads through the turret press when doing these numbers. Rather than sizing, then trimming then priming then finally load.
    Scrap.... because all the really pithy and emphatic four letter words were taken and we had to describe this source of casting material somehow so we added an "S" to what non casters and wives call what we collect.

    Kind of hard to claim to love America while one is hating half the Americans that disagree with you. One nation indivisible requires work.

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  4. #64
    Boolit Master Electric88's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by farmerjim View Post
    Attachment 145746
    I use the WFT from little crow gunworks. Easy to do 12 to 15 per min.
    The WFT is amazing! I have one, and it is the easiest thing I've ever used. You have to make sure you full length size your brass, as it indexes off the shoulder. But it is extremely consistent. Trimming is definitely something I recommend doing.

    As for LC 5.56 brass, I've probably gone through several 5 gallon buckets worth by now. The only extra thing that needs to be done is the swaging of the primer pocket to remove the crimp. I bought the CH4D swaging set, but I know many people rave about the Dillon unit.

  5. #65
    Boolit Grand Master

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    If you use the X dies (RCBS) you only need to trim after the first sizing. Of course checking is a good thing, but future trimming is seldom necessary.
    It also allows many future loadings without case stretch, and splitting..
    Information not shared. is wasted.

  6. #66
    Boolit Grand Master


    Larry Gibson's Avatar
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    +1 on using the RCBS X-DIE. Use the regular die. The SB or "AR" dies are not needed, especially with a Mini14.

    Larry Gibson

  7. #67
    Boolit Master
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    I took Larry's advice to use the X-DIE for a M1A. Now I'm using one for 30-06 (Garand) too.

    There is nothing really complicated to prepping your brass for X-DIE use and if you don't have a regular full length sizing die that dosn't matter either. Prep is simple. Full length size then trim to .020" under max. That's it.

    If the X-DIE is the only sizing die you have you simply back off the "X" feature for the first sizing. After you have a sized and trimmed case you set up the X-DIE and the "X" feature using one of the prepped casings.

    I have a X-DIE for .223 also but have been too busy with other calibers so the .223s haven't been used much lately. Eventually my .223 brass will also be sized with the X-DIE. Thanks Larry.

    Motor

  8. #68
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    Quote Originally Posted by RogerDat View Post
    Will be run through a mini-14 . . . My hope is to end up with plinking ammo, at reasonable cost with a load that drops the brass in the same zip code it is being fired from.
    Have you done any modifications to the rifle? I ask because I just finished installing a new gas block bushing from Rifle Accuracy Systems in my Mini-14. I also installed two polyurethane recoil buffers from a 1911 pistol (one on the gas block and one on the recoil spring at the front of the receiver). This little modification (total cost <$30) took the brass slinger from 50+ feet down to about 10 feet (including all bounces and rolls) on concrete. Improved accuracy too groups went from about 5 MOA to ~1MOA at 100 yards. This was with full power loads, not a reduced plinking round.

    Gas block bushings: http://www.ruger-mini-14-firearms.co...s.php#Bushings

    I got the 1911 buffers from eBay.
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  9. #69
    Boolit Master



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    Got too many AR's ! The wife doesn't know the count thank goodness. MOST will run LC cases sized in a standard die the first time fine, Couple won't. So for convenience and because I'm pretty sure all my LC was initially fired from full autos with generous chambers, I size all initially in SB dies. Do have a couple bolt .223's also . The SB sized brass works fine in them also. Whatever works !
    And the Gracy trimmer the bride gave me in 2000 is one of my favorite things !

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Abbreviations used in Reloading

BP Bronze Point IMR Improved Military Rifle PTD Pointed
BR Bench Rest M Magnum RN Round Nose
BT Boat Tail PL Power-Lokt SP Soft Point
C Compressed Charge PR Primer SPCL Soft Point "Core-Lokt"
HP Hollow Point PSPCL Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" C.O.L. Cartridge Overall Length
PSP Pointed Soft Point Spz Spitzer Point SBT Spitzer Boat Tail
LRN Lead Round Nose LWC Lead Wad Cutter LSWC Lead Semi Wad Cutter
GC Gas Check