How are you keeping the threaded handle "locked" into the bowl?
How are you keeping the threaded handle "locked" into the bowl?
Peen one or two threads half way up on the rod handle will do it.
Don't over do it.
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Or you can turn a die on the bar to create more thread and use a nut to lock it on.
I used a split die to run thread back on mine It was set on the large size making an interfrence fit thread for last few threads. If you handles threads are long enough they come thry into inside of ladle assemble and with punch and light hammer peen end over on inside to lock in place also. This way is permanant takes metal removeal to disasemble it after its done so besure its what you want first.
Have you tried any of the thread lockers on the market? Another way is to go to any machine shop that is small and with just a few employees, these guys usually are easier to talk with. Have them thread the handle out for more available threads and install a locking nut.
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Dip it in salt water and screw it together. This is one place where rust is your friend. I couldn't unscrew mine if I wanted to.
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The new ones have a threaded boss on both sides, in theory the new and improved dipper " can be assembled for either right or left hand use!" Ain't that considerate of them ? Thinking about the poor neglected left handed boolit casters....but I notice, they don't make a left handed mould, so what's a person to do ! Left handed dipper and a right handed mould. That's just not right !
I still have and use my old Lyman dipper that I got back in the 70's
I actually like it better than the Newer Improved version , but for only two cavity molds.
The Improved holds enough lead for a 6 banger .45 -230 mold, the original only will pour 4 holes before refilling.
I too put salt water on the threads of my Improved model, and the handle has never come loose.
"....but I notice, they don't make a left handed mould, so what's a person to do ! Left handed dipper and a right handed mould. That's just not right !"
Any moulds that do not come with handles attached can be mounted to your handles for either right or left-handed use.
The new Lee moulds with those crappy "screws" can be turned around, but only once and only if you're lucky enough to put the screws back in exactly as they were installed from the factory. If not then you'll need to re-drill and tap for standard-type screws. I have a few of the older style moulds that I've turned around for myself and have successfully turned one of the new style moulds but I'll never knowingly purchase another of the "New, Improved" Lee moulds.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |