This might come in handy I need a front sight on my H&R pardner.
This might come in handy I need a front sight on my H&R pardner.
Soldered a .020" shim to the trigger of my 340 Savage to cut down on sear engagement using this method, worked great!. First tinned a .020 feeler gage and the face of the trigger hook. With tin snips cut off a thin strip of .020 gauge and placed it on the trigger. Heated the two together and voila success. Went from a 4+ lb creepy trigger to a nice 2.5 lb trigger. The steel wool trick with Nokorode worked great. The downside to this trigger mod is that it negates the safety as the trigger does not go back far enough to engage it. This is only a range toy so the lack of a safety is not a problem for me. The upside is when I get ready to sell this gun some heat removes the shim and it's back to factory specs. BTW I found small amounts of 95/5 tin/silver solder at Home Depot reasonably priced. Thanks Goodsteel for the knowledge.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
Fair warning, Home depot lead free solder is 95/5 tin/antimony, no silver. If labeled silver bearing, then the msds says (i think, bad memory) between .1-.5% silver. Come to think of it, i think the msds said 3-5% antimony too.
if you want an even better price for what appears to be the same stuff, Harbor Freight sells lead free solder too, and cheap.
WR--The tube I bought said Fine electrical rosin core solder and stated contents as 96% tin and 4% silver. It was .5 oz and a couple bucks as I remember. As fas as what I was using it for it wouldn't matter if it was 50/50 lead/tin.
Melt temp is 460 deg and tensile strength is 14000 psi
Last edited by fecmech; 06-27-2015 at 07:40 PM.
"Masculine republics give way to feminine democracies, and feminine democracies give way to tyrannies.” Aristotle
The main thing is that it has the tin content in it. Seems the tin is absolutely essential to getting it to wet to steel. I have lots of 63/37 solder here (63% tin) and you can't get that stuff to stick to steel to save your life. I think the silver adds tensile strength to the stuff, but the tin is what does the "bonding" (it's not really bonding. I just don't know what you call it when two dissimilar metals share atoms on a molecular level.)
Precision in the wrong place is only a placebo.
I thought the same thing too. Package said one thing. MSDS said another. the Home Depot sales literature was based on the package. It's all good if it works for you. I buy it too for non-critical applications.
I'm just suggesting to take care with respect to the material itself. It may not be what is on the package label.
What about using lead / tin soldier? Is it strong enough or not recommended?
It's pretty common in small parts production work, HVAC, etc...
Have you tried induction heating?
I almost never break out the torch anymore, simple flux/solder or flux/brazing paste.
Simply heat until the part falls into place and you get a bead of molten solder, remove heat, and if your parts are clamped, use an air hose to blow off excess.
I rarely do any soldering nowadays, but have done an awful lot of silver brazing making custom cutting tools (carbide/steel) We used a monster of a water cooled induction heater machine for the larger parts and a more handy non-cooled system for the smaller parts.
Cap'n Morgan
Good post- at a yard sale not that long ago, bought rolls and rolls of bandsaw blade - both wood and metal- I appreciate the education on Silver Solder...
The essence of education is self reliance- T.H. White.
Currently seeking wood carving tools, wood planes, froes, scorps, spokeshaves... etc....
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |