I was given a mold that looks ok but when i cast boolits I get lead wings on them...I have tried holding the handles tight and I put the 2 halves in a vise and snugged it up but no use...is the mold doomed or should I try lapping it
I was given a mold that looks ok but when i cast boolits I get lead wings on them...I have tried holding the handles tight and I put the 2 halves in a vise and snugged it up but no use...is the mold doomed or should I try lapping it
Check it for burrs, lead smear etc. Find a good straight edge, are the mold faces flat? Lapping the cavities would not make the halfs fit together. If you mean lapping the faces there's a thread here somewhere that gives good instructions. Go slow and stop when you get full contact on the faces. Then lap the cavities if the bullets are out of round too much. You should be able to save it.
no much info to go from here
first and most common is that there may be some lead between the halves preventing them closing all the way
second the alignment pins may need to be re-set
third the mold may have been abused and it is warped
hold the mold closed up to a light and see if there is a space between the molds
if so check to see if there is lead between them sometimes it is hard to see use a magnifying glass remved with soft wood if need to not hard steel
if not this check the other things i mentioned
this is just a short list of the most common things
mule
I have checked for lead and dont see any...i will check for a space and check the pins and did mean lapping the surfaces..the wings are not that big or thick but always there when casting
Since you have checked for lead/whatever holding the blocks apart, and found none, then my next move would be the straight-edge thing, to check the blocks for warpage. No light visible between the straight-edge and the blocks, then I would look at resetting the locating pins - there isn't much more that can provide the wings you are getting.
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Check for a gap WITH THE HANDLES ATTACHED before you start lapping and doing stuff - not all handles fit the same way.
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Thanks lads I will do all this and report back
Often a slight burr or mar will occur when the mould is improperly closed during a casting session. Typically it is along the outside edge of one of the holes the locating pins fit in. Check this with a straightedge and file flat with a jeweler's file. Sometimes the burr is in the hole slightly, a round file or the proper sized drill bit can clear this out.
Other times, a pin will work forward until it protrudes too far. You can get a brass punch and tap these pins back into the mould block until you can feel the two halves slip against each other when held together. Then tap them back out, one tap at a time, until the blocks won't move laterally any more. Hold the joint against a strong light to check for separation. If you can't see light in the crack, do some test casting.
i had the same thing going on with one mold the handles did not fit right ( like Artful said look at the handles )
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Thanks everyone...I shall put a cpl of pics on tonight so you can see and check all the suggestions and report back
Who made the mould? Different manufacturers products have different.... personalities. If it's an Ideal or Lyman, check for a raised burr around the alignment dowel holes for example.
Gheck for burrs around holes and edges of pins also check for burrs or dings around edges of the blocks. Look at the vent lines in the mould if they are on large size that may be the issue. Mould handles that are to snug or tight mis alighned can cause this also. Look for burrs and dings bent mounting screws on the handles. OP didnt give mould maker, what handles, age, if mould had been used successfully before, purchased new or used, alloy being cast and or temp. High tin alloys flow much better sometimes causing this, Higher temps and hotter blocks can also cause finning. Also a high pressure fill ( fitting tight to nose of a full 20 lb pot or large ladle can sometimes do this. Theres alot and little information here.
You could read the test procedure and adjustment of molds in the sticky "Hensley & Gibbs User's Manual". Good stuff. If your running your alloy HOT and the mold is HOT, you can get some fining at the parting line.
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |