Tested new Lee mould yesterday. (R) 356-120-TC and Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant.
Scrubbed mould with acetone and toothbrush, then scrubbed with dawn and hot water, let dry. Worked over all rough edges. Had Liquid Wrench Dry Lube 4 oz. dropper bottle, cheaper than big spray can and I planned on applying it with a Q-Tip. Gave the cleaned and deburred mould top, cavities, top and underside of sprue two coats of lube, letting each dry.
Lubed and heated mould, started casting. The stuff doesn't contaminate the cavities!!!
As soon as I had it up to casting temperature, the boolits would just drop out , no tapping , no sticking ...it kind of scared me how they just fell out when I opended the mould!
Helps keep smears from underside of sprue plate and top of blocks , you still have to wait for sprue to harden, which I at times rush. And help keeps lead from sticking to top of sprue plate especially around the holes. Any smears come right off with a coarse rag or steel wool. Had no galling problems.
Going to start using this on all my moulds, seems to work. I even got some around the sprue plate screw , it seemed to lubricate it without contaminating the cavities .
I cast about 200, took a short break , then used the dry lube on the warm mould before I resumed casting for another 300.
It contains polytetrafluoroethylene (PTFE) , don't know how it works for rust protection, but it gets along just fine with melted boollit alloy. I like it!
Also like these new Lee moulds, screw didn't loosen but if it does I know how to fix it.
Gary