Friend of mine bought these off an 'Old widow woman' and brought these to me to see what he bought, Its his understanding that all of these are for muzzle loaders?
At any rate I have a bit of rust removal coming up!
Any suggestions welcome!
Friend of mine bought these off an 'Old widow woman' and brought these to me to see what he bought, Its his understanding that all of these are for muzzle loaders?
At any rate I have a bit of rust removal coming up!
Any suggestions welcome!
Well, if the cavities are not harmed, you can;
1) Try naval jelly. That is some wicked stuff on rust.
2) I seem to remember a couple of members here using electrolysis to clean up mold to good effect.
3) Good ol' elbow grease, 0000 steel wool and kerosene!
Evaporust works great but will remove blueing too. You need to soak the item in it longer than the directions say to in my experience.
Evaporust is your friend with those. Soak them until the rust is gone. It is almost to easy using it on rusty stuff that is small enough to be submerged.
Evaporust is supposed to work Ive never tried it CLR will also work. Soak and scrup with toothbrush. If light pitting holds bullets then a light lapping with toothpaste may smooth out enough to make useable again. As to handles hardwood dowel of correct dia can be cut to length a hole drilled in one end for handle and epoxied in place. The appropriate sized copper pipe cape makes solid strong ferrels for the end. I dont see much there that isnt repairable.
This thread might help:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...tuff&highlight=
You have one Lee hollow point or hollow base there. Treat aluminium differently than iron.
Wayne the Shrink
There is no 'right' that requires me to work for you or you to work for me!
Here is another vote for evaporust. Both gbrown and I have soaked rusted molds in evaporust overnight and the next day all the rust was gone. Nothing more was required.
Dysfunctional Disturbed Disabled Debonair Navy Veteran
Swift Boats, Vietnam, 1967-1968.
"You are never too old to learn something stupid."
EVAPO-rust and a gallon will do a of them in about 4hours all your rust will be history then rinse in hot water then take a oily rag to them they will be good as new.O'Reilly Auto Parts sells it for $28.50 gallon.I'd pay three times that much it's that good.works great on rusty hand tools too
I started out with nothing and I still have most of it left.
Paralyzed Veterans of America
Looking for a Hensly &Gibbs #258 any thing from a two cavity to a 10cavityI found a new one from a member here
I use Evaporust too. You can put the disassembled pieces in a plastic bag and cover them with Evaporust, purge most of the air out and let them sit on the workbench. When done, I scrub them with a brass brush by hand while rinsing, then dry thoroughly before treating them to a coat of oil and reassembling.
Wayne makes a good point, the Lee single cavity mold on the right is aluminum. What works on malleable/nodular/iron molds can potentially harm it. Are the molds really for "muzzle loaders", it would be nice if the OP would list any of the mold numbers or descriptions on the mold body.
Thanks for the advive, Seems Evaporust is the winner here and when i get in from work I'll pick up some and soak the steel molds.
The one number I've been able to I.D. is on the Lee mold 575-500M, This would be the Alum. mold pictured. Thanks' Again!
The 2 cavity is a RCBS 350-R, Took a bit of scraping and Aero-Kroil to find that number!
Do they make cylindrical type or round ball type boolits?
If round balls, then certainly they are for muzzle loaders, but
for cylindrical type, need the numbers.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
Round balls could also be buckshot for any type shotgun. The third mold looks like a typical four cavity Lyman judging from the sprue plate shape and hinge location, but I don't recognize who makes four cavity molds with a center (not end) hinge point where it is on the first mold.
Keith, you are right, of course, but most round balls are for
muzzle loaders, but certainly not 100%.
If it was easy, anybody could do it.
The 4 cav with center pivot bolt is a Saeco mold and, from the little bit I can see it doesn't look like a round ball mold to me.
Soak in evaporust and becareful with the cavities!
I believe your right, Found the name Lyman 490 and its a round ball.
The last mold on the left is a flat base projectile, Still has the projectiles in the mold, So far i hav'nt recovered a name or number, Still working on it when i have a few minutes, The guy that bought all of these was only interested in the alum. mold, He may sell the other 3, I'll check with him next week.Thanks' Again for the help!
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |