Oh yeah, flux. This thread is about flux, isn't it...
I use Marvalux for my big batches of melt. Ain't no way I'll ever put that stuff in my casting pot again. I'm a kitty litter guy now, through and through.
Oh yeah, flux. This thread is about flux, isn't it...
I use Marvalux for my big batches of melt. Ain't no way I'll ever put that stuff in my casting pot again. I'm a kitty litter guy now, through and through.
For those who are interested in oil, the most complete discussions I have found are at:
Bob Is The Oil Guy
LOTS of good info there.
Grumble--When I was stationed in Newfoundland recip aircraft that came in and planned on staying overnight used oil dilution. Depending on the expected overnight temp they would run the engines for a period of time letting avgas mix with the oil before shutdown as the eng oil was 50wt. On start up as the engine warmed up the avgas evaporated. Love the smell of 115/145 avgas!
this is a fasinating thread -- so I plan to change the oil in my Farmall M, I use it about 20-30 hours a year, or my IH 300 U gets more hours but maybe 200 per year. Will this oil be good for fluxing? If I am understanding this, the multivis synthetics will pump faster and build pressure faster than non-syn? correct? I plow snow with the 300 U and like today it is a little below zero outside. this sound right?
Ascast,
If you read the tech advice on swithing to synthetics from conventional oil, the publications state to first use a Para synthetic oil on your first oil change and then go to full synthetic. You should notice a dramatic change in oil pressure build up in extreme cold temperatures. You will most likely also notice how much easier the engines turn over in extreme cold weather. I live in Northern Mn. and run Mobil 1 in all our vehicles and machines, engines, rear and front differentials, and transfer cases. The only place I don't use synthetics is in wet clutch applications like 4wheelers/quads. Some manufactures advise using them could cause premature wear to some clutch materials.
I melt over a propane turkey cooker, and use a scoop of wood ashes as flux. No smoke. Ladle through the ashes, stir.. All the lead comes off the steel clips.
Good grief! I thought I was back on a car forum for a moment there!! A 10 year old thread on what oil to use in a car.........
I buy huge nasty looking and smelling candles at garage sales for fifty cents to a buck. I look for the 3" dia. ones about 12" tall that smell nasty. They weigh about two pounds and the sellers think they are getting to me! Sometimes they will throw in some other smaller candles they feel so bad. I have a cabinet shop a couple of miles from me and they gladly let me have all the sawdust I want so I can toss in some of that too. I have a lot of used motor oil available but I don't like all the chemicals in it or even new oil for that matter. I try to keep it simple.
Mtgrs737
Still Learning!
NRA Life Member
Life long OZ resident
Personality type: Compulsive/Excessive - I don't know what that means, all I know is, if I like something, I want a lot of it!
Pray to put "One nation, Under God" back in our country! We will never be a Great Nation without HIM!
SOCIALISM is a PHILOSOPHY of FAILURE, the CREED of IGNORANCE and the GOSPEL of ENVY, It's inherent value is the EQUAL SHARING of MISERY. -Winston Churchill
Just to throw in my 2 cents on motor oil. I like and use Mobil 1 but not in my cars anymore due to the cost and the fact that I keep a car until it is junk yard ready. I have yet to have an engine wear out on a computer controlled injected car engine using conventional oil. I do change oil about every 4-5000 miles and I won't use any other brand of filter but a Wix or Napa (Napa has a big sale every April). One place I do like synthetic oils is in my many two cycle engines, as it does not burn and break down like conventional oil does. I laid in a stock of Mobil 1 Racing 2T two cycle oil that should last me a lifetime and it works in all my air cooled engines. One bit of advice I got many years ago from the commercial mowing guys is to not use the lean 50 to 1 ratio's that engine manufacturers recommend but to add a little more oil to the mix. The trend is to use lean ratio's as much as 100 to 1 and that is just dumb as the oil is life's blood of a two cycle engine and I cannot for the life of me understand why anyone would run so lean. The only thing I can think of is that they don't want the engine to smoke, if not then buy a four cycle! LOL! Sorry for the rant!
Mtgrs737
Still Learning!
NRA Life Member
Life long OZ resident
Personality type: Compulsive/Excessive - I don't know what that means, all I know is, if I like something, I want a lot of it!
Pray to put "One nation, Under God" back in our country! We will never be a Great Nation without HIM!
SOCIALISM is a PHILOSOPHY of FAILURE, the CREED of IGNORANCE and the GOSPEL of ENVY, It's inherent value is the EQUAL SHARING of MISERY. -Winston Churchill
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |