old brass

[comdiver]

Not sure where I should post this question but..... I have a lot of 30-06 brass from 1942, WW2. Lots of different headstamps. Do people collect this stuff? I just want to shoot. Is it likely to crack from age? I am trying to make match grade ammo and have been useing HXP and LC (sorted in batches). Should I stick with that?

[elk hunter]

I don't believe that WW-2 brass is collectable at this time. As for using it I do, mostly Denver 42 but a smattering of others, haven't had any problems. Ammunition and brass from the early 30's and earlier is another story, I've had quite a bit of it and much of it split at the neck without ever being fired.

[Dakoma]

I bought some KA 43 brass , did not know I was buying it was not advertised as Korean ! Flash holes off center I had to de-prime with my Lee Loader by hand and don't think it is worth reloading just scrap !

[Char-Gar]

Not sure where I should post this question but..... I have a lot of 30-06 brass from 1942, WW2. Lots of different headstamps. Do people collect this stuff? I just want to shoot. Is it likely to crack from age? I am trying to make match grade ammo and have been useing HXP and LC (sorted in batches). Should I stick with that?

It isn't collectible, but I will buy it from you for a reasonable price.

[comdiver]

Message Sent

[mfraser264]

Unless the brass is match grade there is collector interest but not much - shoot it.

Many issues with older brass is that it was fired and not cleaned allowing the corrosive primers to work on the brass and weaken it, especially in the neck. I have sealed tins of '42 ammo. Have been pulling the bullet, salvage the powder, and then knockout the primer. Reprime with fresh primers and away we go. Been working very well.

I have read here that a lot of guys like to anneal the necks after so many shots. Some claim it extends the life out to the point where a primer will not stay in the pocket. Hope this helps.

[JWFilips]

I convert most of it to 8 x 57 That way it is valuable to me

[Eddie2002]

Been converting a lot of the 30-06 blanks from the early 50's into 7.7 Jap plinkers. Trimming the blanks down to 7.7 Jap removes the crimp in the throat of the case which is the weak spot. Picked up a few hundred at a show for pennies per case.
I would anneal the older 30-06 brass before working it, a lot of the older military brass I've come across needs the neck annealed before running through a press. Beside that I would shoot it.

[1Shirt]

I acquired a batch of very very old hornet brass. 40's or early 50's, much discolored, much of it fired in the old AF single shot survival rifles. The first thing I did was anneal it, then tumble it, and then full length resize it then trim those that needed same (about 30 %). I then fired it in my K Hornet chamber with a moderate load. Out of over 200 cases only lost 3 to neck splits on fire forming to K. Am a firm believer that on any old brass, you should wash it if at all dirty, dry it well, and then anneal, and in all probability much of it will be long and will require trimming.
1Shirt

[justingrosche]

Been converting a lot of the 30-06 blanks from the early 50's into 7.7 Jap plinkers. Trimming the blanks down to 7.7 Jap removes the crimp in the throat of the case which is the weak spot. Picked up a few hundred at a show for pennies per case.
I would anneal the older 30-06 brass before working it, a lot of the older military brass I've come across needs the neck annealed before running through a press. Beside that I would shoot it.

I've been converting 30/40 Krag blanks into useable cases. Takes a bit of work but it can be done,