You can also get the wattage of those elements on the bottom braces its usually stamped into one of them with the voltage.
You can also get the wattage of those elements on the bottom braces its usually stamped into one of them with the voltage.
45 ACP because shooting more than once is just silly!!
Democracy is two wolves and a lamb voting on what to have for lunch. Liberty is a well-armed lamb contesting the vote.
This thread is almost 8 years old and resurrecting it has brought contact information for Bill Ferguson to a current post. Please check out this thread:
http://castboolits.gunloads.com/show...ut-of-Business
I don't know what it would take to shut down his web site but it needs to be done. Bill has been out of business for over a year now and I don't even know if he is still living.
John
W.TN
454PB
Did you have to be selective in the element you bought? I know the wattage should be about the same for the same size burner but were there some burners that were structurally stronger than others? If so Did you remember the brand of element?
The idea is great. I am thinking of using a piece of heavy wall pipe and putting the control switch in the side of the pipe. The problem with that would you would have your hand below the heated material to adjust the temp.
When I walked into the appliance repair shop, there were literally hundreds of removed elements lying around. I picked these two for the flatness of the elements.
I'm well aware of the warnings about using aluminum. While I don't promote their use, this particular pot has melted several TONS of lead with no problems. I have other melting vessels made of steel, but I actually prefer the pressure cooker for it's quick heat conduction. I had a cast iron pot once, dropped it, and it cracked. At least it was empty when it happened.
You cannot discover new oceans unless you have the courage to lose sight of the shore
Ronnie,
One thing you need to be aware of, especially in California, is wheel weights and their compositions have changed a good bit since my original posting. I strongly advise getting a thermometer and keeping the temperature of your melt very close to the melting point of lead. Otherwise, you're quite likely to get some zinc in your smelt and ruin your lead for casting.
On the other hand, if you use a thermometer and keep the temperature within the specificed range (see more recent posts by me on this subject), you will get good lead and the zinc wheel weights, as well and the steel clips and any other nasties will float to the top to be skimmed out.
Hook up a PID for the power source, throw a thermocouple in the pot and you would never have to worry about zinc wheel weights melting.
Nice rig for $1.
A PID with a thermocouple and a SSR (Solid state relay)
I have been considering setting up a system that does not heat over 550F to melt lead wheel weights out of zinc. Pure lead weights melt at about 620 F, And zinc melts at over 700F.
Discovering the PID temp control system has been interesting for me to say the least
Go now and pour yourself a hot one...
BP | Bronze Point | IMR | Improved Military Rifle | PTD | Pointed |
BR | Bench Rest | M | Magnum | RN | Round Nose |
BT | Boat Tail | PL | Power-Lokt | SP | Soft Point |
C | Compressed Charge | PR | Primer | SPCL | Soft Point "Core-Lokt" |
HP | Hollow Point | PSPCL | Pointed Soft Point "Core Lokt" | C.O.L. | Cartridge Overall Length |
PSP | Pointed Soft Point | Spz | Spitzer Point | SBT | Spitzer Boat Tail |
LRN | Lead Round Nose | LWC | Lead Wad Cutter | LSWC | Lead Semi Wad Cutter |
GC | Gas Check |