Cordless Tool batteries

[sjbrdn]

Half of what you guys are talking about is over my simple head. As a professional contractor, I primarily use the DeWalt cordless systems and I find that the battery packs have a longer life with regular use. I completely discharge each battery before recharging and alternate so all batteries get regular use. My father-in-law has the same tool set I have and his are always dead because he never uses them. He has had to replace his batteries because of non-use more often than I have with regular use. If you use the cordless tools regularly or need them because power is not available, I think cordless tools are great. But, for the average home owner who just uses them a few times a year, I think they're a bad investment.

[timberhawk]

I've been rebuilding battery packs for years. It used to be pretty hard to find sub c cells and good rechargeable batteries to rebuild with.
Now hobby stores and electronic stores sell all types of rechargeable batteries made to rebuild battery packs for model cars and such. They work great in power tool rebuilds because they're high capacity for longer run times.
But, as stated above, you've got to swap out comparable batteries (NiMH, NiCad, LiON, etc.) or you will create a potentially dangerous situation.

[bangerjim]

Half of what you guys are talking about is over my simple head. As a professional contractor, I primarily use the DeWalt cordless systems and I find that the battery packs have a longer life with regular use. I completely discharge each battery before recharging and alternate so all batteries get regular use. My father-in-law has the same tool set I have and his are always dead because he never uses them. He has had to replace his batteries because of non-use more often than I have with regular use. If you use the cordless tools regularly or need them because power is not available, I think cordless tools are great. But, for the average home owner who just uses them a few times a year, I think they're a bad investment.

That is exactly the reason LiON systems are superior. They hold their charge for a VERY long time without loosing power, recharge quickly, and weigh only ounces rather than pounds like the older batteries do. I gave away 5 DeWalt 12/18v drills we used because the batteries were a PITA. I checked with a local battery recycler and by far the largest number of batteries they get in are the DeWalt 12/18 volt NiCad. Tons of them.

You have to totally drain a NiCad battery pack each time you use it or it could/will develop a memory and will not take a full charge after a while. I have "zapped" many a NiCad battery in my life trying to "burn the shorts" out of them. Works maybe 40% of the time. Most are trash after they start loosing charging power.

Then came the NiMH technology that drains itself (!) during idle times to prevent the memory thing, But if you let it sit for a period of time (perhaps weeks), next time you grab it, it's dead............from it's own internal designed draining.

If you are seriously thinking about new cordless tools, you really want to consider the LiON technology. Powerful, lightweight, fast charge, holds a charge for almost forever (!) At least it seems like it. My original Lexus hybrid SUV has LiON batteries and after 6 years they are still going strong. And that is in AZ summer heat. And Lexus gives a 10 year warranty on the battery. The new Lexus seems to have even more power!

[wv109323]

I have a Craftsman 19.2 volts battery pack that just died. Where is the best place to buy Ni-CD batteries for that application.

[pmer]

I have a Craftsman 19.2 volts battery pack that just died. Where is the best place to buy Ni-CD batteries for that application.

Here could be a place for generic Craftsman batteries.

http://www.batteryship.com/htmlos/ht...52650816236865

Its been a little while did anyone try to get a power supply running for a cordless tool? I have some video of mine cutting, I'll try and post it when I get to the house.

[bangerjim]

Here could be a place for generic Craftsman batteries.

http://www.batteryship.com/htmlos/ht...52650816236865

Its been a little while did anyone try to get a power supply running for a cordless tool? I have some video of mine cutting, I'll try and post it when I get to the house.

Read my post #12 above.

bangerjim

[pmer]

Read my post #12 above.

bangerjim

Hi Jim, I googled an 18 volt cordless Mikita mitter saw. I'm not sure if I found what you had but if it used a 3.3 AH battery, I'm not sure why a 20 Amp DC power supply set to about 19.5 volts would not get that saw to cut wood. 390 watts of available power to the motor in the saw should have done it. Especially if you had a solid 120 VAC going into the supply.

I'm having trouble getting video going I might have to use a link. It's on youtube (I think) Still trying to get video.

[bangerjim]

It did run and did cut soft pine wood. I don't normally cut soft pine. It really struggled thru walnut, oak, and mahogany! The in rush power is very high from a battery pack. Sustained cutting in very hard dry woods just did not "cut it" in my book. An underpowered saw is a dangerous saw. It is NOT used portable, and in fact is bolted down in my shop.

But it was so awkward and cumbersome to have that huge power supply to run a small saw! I just went out and bought a 120V corded quality compound miter saw (NOT HF!) and dumped the Makita. Not worth the hassle, wiring, adaptors for the battery compartment and remembering to turn the stupid PS on and off when I wanted to cut wood! You just cannot beat corded tools when talking saws and high current usages.

If one wants to build jury-rigged power supplies for cordless tools, more "power" to 'ya! Been there-done that. I will stick with corded tools for hard, heavy work. And use LiON drills only for portable use. I have thrown away a LOT (!) of 12 and 18 volt DeWalt tools in recent years.

It is sure nice to know when you grab a power tool (corded or LiON) it will run and run a long time!

banger

[pmer]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8NkW1OB8hs

Okay so I think it can be viewed in action now. I filled a coffee can of saw dust with it so far to be used for casting. I was test stalling an 18 volt drill with a auger style drill bit and the drill seemed to stall at close to same pushing force with batteries or the DC pow. supp. I can cut some oak and see if there is much difference. Common sense would tell me that a more dense wood would have to be cut slower than a soft wood when using a battery too. (at least by how this Dewalt acts, it has seen use)

I didn't build it to over power the tool, I'm sure a person could hit it with a 24 volt battery charger/vehicle starter and it would cut like a beast till it melted. But I think it could be a nice back up to help finish a project or if you have an odd name cordless tool that is hard to get batteries for. It does make the tool more versatile being able to go from DC to AC and back again.

[popper]

Unless you really need the 'portable' powder, go with corded stuff. Do your soldering FAST when repairing batt packs, the solder temp is hard on them - commercial packs are spot welded. I've fixed a few, had some repaired commercially, not worth the price. If one cell goes to zero charge, recharging will short it out - you can 'slowly' trickle charge to safely recover - both Nicad & NiMh. SuperCap are the best but really expensive. Multiphase computer controlled motors are neat also, wish they were 3 volt.

[timberhawk]

It did run and did cut soft pine wood. I don't normally cut soft pine. It really struggled thru walnut, oak, and mahogany! The in rush power is very high from a battery pack. Sustained cutting in very hard dry woods just did not "cut it" in my book. An underpowered saw is a dangerous saw. It is NOT used portable, and in fact is bolted down in my shop.

But it was so awkward and cumbersome to have that huge power supply to run a small saw! I just went out and bought a 120V corded quality compound miter saw (NOT HF!) and dumped the Makita. Not worth the hassle, wiring, adaptors for the battery compartment and remembering to turn the stupid PS on and off when I wanted to cut wood! You just cannot beat corded tools when talking saws and high current usages.

If one wants to build jury-rigged power supplies for cordless tools, more "power" to 'ya! Been there-done that. I will stick with corded tools for hard, heavy work. And use LiON drills only for portable use. I have thrown away a LOT (!) of 12 and 18 volt DeWalt tools in recent years.

It is sure nice to know when you grab a power tool (corded or LiON) it will run and run a long time!

banger

I agree with everything you said. Battery operated tools have their nitch, but not for every use. Sometimes you have to have the corded tools.

We do a lot of work in the back woods at deer leases and the back pasture. My DeWalt 18 volt impact screw driver, 1/2" hammer drill and cordless saw get a lot of use and are very handy and convenient.

When we need more power for larger stuff, I have a 1600 Watt inverter that will run the big corded drills and saws. Just more of a hassle to hook them up and you have to keep the truck running to not run the battery down with the inverter.

Each tool has it's strong points and weak points and each of use has to decide which tool is right for the job at hand.

I rebuild the battery packs because I'm a tinkerer and it gives me a lot of satisfaction to fix something instead of throwing it away or recycling it.

[bangerjim]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b8NkW1OB8hs

Okay so I think it can be viewed in action now. I filled a coffee can of saw dust with it so far to be used for casting. I was test stalling an 18 volt drill with a auger style drill bit and the drill seemed to stall at close to same pushing force with batteries or the DC pow. supp. I can cut some oak and see if there is much difference. Common sense would tell me that a more dense wood would have to be cut slower than a soft wood when using a battery too. (at least by how this Dewalt acts, it has seen use)

I didn't build it to over power the tool, I'm sure a person could hit it with a 24 volt battery charger/vehicle starter and it would cut like a beast till it melted. But I think it could be a nice back up to help finish a project or if you have an odd name cordless tool that is hard to get batteries for. It does make the tool more versatile being able to go from DC to AC and back again.

Yes it does cut, but my Bosch 18v LiON saw will cut thru oak 3x faster than that and not stall. And do it many dozens of times B4 needing a 1 hour recharge. That sluggish cutting is why I threw away all the Dewalt stuff I had and went with Bosch LiON everything for cordless we use in the shops. I have never had a Bosch LiON battery go dead on us while doing a job. And that was a LOT of board feet of cutting and hundreds of 3/8-1/2" holes!

Repairing old NiCAD or NIMH packs is, as said above, generally a waste of $$ and time in my book. I have done it many many time in earlier days. And I have the spot welding equipment to make up the packs. Soldering can ruin the cells if you are not careful. And some cell tabs will not "tin" at all (Cd plated?).....they are made for spot welding only.

At a local recycler, the largest quantiy of bad batteriy packs are yellow - DeWalt! And they also get in lots of old yellow drills too. Old drills (deWalt, Skill, Ryobi, Craftsman are the most common) populate the used tool and junk stores in piles. (mine went to the dump)

There are those on here that say they have re-built drill packs and are satisfied with the performance. I have also done that and have been totally disgusted in the performance and short life gained and the $$ involved. It is all in what you expect from a tool.

My opinion: Save your money and buy a new LiON system. You will never regret it!!!!!

[pmer]

I didn't really want to turn this thread into bashing one brand over the other. I can understand comparisons of the DC power supply to a "corded" tool because of my blue wire going into the battery pack. But any comparison IMO ends there because the cordless saw is still running on direct current. The 15 amp AC motor in a "corded" saw out classes these little DC motors.

DC power supplies come in many shapes and sizes. You're using one when you plug your cell phone in to charge it. Some DC motors are so big they would be too heavy to be hauled in a pickup. Since power plants generate power in ALTERNATING CURRENT a DC power supply is needed to run it. (converting alternating current to direct current)

So to me it doesn't matter what color the saw is or how great its batteries are, there is a DC power supply that will spin its motor under unload.

I've used tools that were powered from air to corded and cordless. I'll grab a cordless tool 90% percent of the time because they are so convenient, even in a shop setting cordless tools are used to great effect.

I'm not hard selling you on a brand of tool or trashing another brand. Just saying there is another option for power. My guess is that this idea would be better suited to the occasional user that knows how spendy batteries are and might not have a fully charged one to finish a project and can't or don't want to wait to charge their battery. I've been there myself. I think I could help someone get this going if they chose.